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As the saying goes......"Sheeet happens" !! Hell I would repair transmissions that have 1,000 miles at the dealer.
When you are ready I can walk you through every step of the way as I have been there , done that several times on the garage floor.
The exhaust is the hardest part since it is so bulky. When that is out of the way you will have lots of room.
I appreciate your generosity, thank you! However, as it is currently winter here, and the CLS is my daily driver (the SL 55 is in winter storage), I think it will have the suffice with a pure converter swap because of time restraints. I just cant have the car inoperable for more than a weekend, and also I have limited time to wrench because of my job.
Perhaps I will take you up on the offer on a later time, or when you finally decide to take that trip to Norway
I'm adding a few photos of the cars And thanks again for the help SICAMG and nd-photo.nl!
TCC? Then maybe also the state of the ABS rings come into play? Its known that they perish over time
The thought has crossed my mind, however the car is like new underneath. It looks like it rolled out of the factory 2 weeks ago. Also there are no fault codes stored for the ABS.
I tried disabling the TCC on my way to work today, and I had a couple of pretty harsh downshifts. Also, some of the chugging when driving at a constant speed was back. I suspect it perhaps has something to do with the gearbox/transoil temperature. Doesn't mean the torque converter is no longer a suspect, but I felt a bit "down" over the fact that the car was not cured with TCC disabled when driving it today.
Also: Sometimes, it also feels like it takes a few milliseconds before the torque converter "grabs", and the car starts to accelerate. Like it revs in neutral, and you're dropping the clutch. Typical bad torque converter?
From what I can see online CLS 55 is not widely affected by the glycol contamination issue?
Also, I have not settled on the fact that the gearbox rarely goes over 50C, or about 120 Fahrenheit. Yes, it's cold here now, but I thought that the shared radiator/transoil cooler is supposed to heat up the gearbox oil temperature. The 722.6 is sensitive to cold temperatures, and it would make sense for it to be heated up to about the same temperature as the engine.
No, now that sounds like it's low on trans fluid. It should never feel like a neutral drop unless trans has an issue or it is low on fluid so check fluid and just make sure.
No, now that sounds like it's low on trans fluid. It should never feel like a neutral drop unless trans has an issue or it is low on fluid so check fluid and just make sure.
That was perhaps a bad description. It's more like a slight hesitation. I have checked the fluid level, and it seems fine.
I sent the torque converter to get overhauled locally. Am in the process of putting it back together now. Hopefully that does the trick! It was not cheap…
The car feels A LOT better with the new torque converter. The shudder/kangaroo stuff is GONE. What remains thought, is that it sometimes, but not as often as before, has that harsh downshift. It feels like the rpm sort of just gets too low, under 1000 rpm, and when it downshifts you get that kick. It happens after driving for an extended period of time, and usually when driving passively. It's not as worse as it was before, but that is still there. It's happens around 30 mph (50 kph), and when downshifting.
I reset all the adaptation when I changed the torque converter. However, I did not find an option to reset/adapt the torque converter. What appears on screen is just the steps to perform adaptation but there is no adaptation program, if that makes sense.
how did you find this out ? what was the indicator that led you to the bypass valve ?
Unfortunately nothing other than the symptoms indicating a feel of lack of air to the engine. Like the engine was under more load than it actually was. Like I said previously, it felt like a badly tuned carburetor, or like the throttle body didn't respond properly. I was not able to identify the issue with any of the values, and as I stated, there has never been any fault codes. So just firing the parts canon until it was finally OK, is the answer unfortunately. But hopefully it can lead someone to the solution based on the symptoms.
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And thanks again for the help SICAMG and nd-photo.nl!
