Hi all. while driving, the oil sensor fault came out on the screen. so i decided to replace it.
after draining the oil, removing the oil sensor.. found out theres quite a sludge in the pan,
maybe this is why the sensor is giving out errors.
so anyways i decided to remove the oil pan to see whats going on.
sure enough lots of sludge were settled at the lower side of the pan.
so then if theres sludge accumulation, im sure the top valve cover would be also have some sludge, so i decided to remove it. sure enough some sludge were there.

so, after removing oil pan and valve cover, after cleaning..both items..
i was wondering, without removing any other engine blocks,, can i flush petrol from the top cleaning the surface area the remaining sludge and does the petrol goes straight down to the bottom? or is there another accumulation spot that i should open ?

thank u again for reading.

 

When I started the 1st of 3 phases of my E63 Build (I’m now still in my 3rd!), I had removed both Heads, Intake Manifold, and when I drained the Oil, it kinda looked bad! But little did I know what I’d find when I dropped the Oil Pan to get a better look!


Yuck! How’s that for sludge! The previous owner was Head of Sales for a local Used EuroCar Dealer, but other than replacing the Battery, didn’t do D _ _ _ to maintain this amazing car!

 

Wow that actually makes me feel better lol... I often go anywhere from 5 to 10k miles between oil changes, and when I recently had to changed a cracked lower pan on my E55, it was clean as a whistle. Phew.

 

Just bear in mind that the above related Sludge I found after removing the pan was immediately after I had taken possession of the car whereupon I continued to take it apart after determining there was an air leak effecting my RPM steadily going higher after warmup!

Ended up being the Intake Plenum being riddled with holes! But after seeing how Carbon Filled each Intake Runner was, rather than try cleaning it with Walnut Shell (Messy), I decided to remove both Heads, and thank goodness I did because otherwise I would never have known 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent due to the previous owner having taken apart the Intake CamShaft Adjuster (CA) Passenger Side and inadvertently installing its inner “Cog/gear” backwards thus causing the CamShaft NOT being able to be seated against the Diamond Washer. Because of this, not only did it render the function of the CA inoperable due to the “Barrel Pin” which normally would be retracted presumably from the Hall Sensor (Magnet) engaging from the Front Side, but also cause for the entire gear of the CA to be pushed forward such that the teeth of its gear barely engaged with the Drive Sprocket under both CA’s!

Talk about dodging a Catastrophic Bullit! I only caught this upon the rebuild! As such, thanks to “Tasos (sp?)” instructional video on the CA Rebuilld, and yes I did flip the Barrel Pin on 4 CA’s, I mustered up the Courage to take those apart, but his Vids didn’t explain what happens when some idiot puts that inner Cog with the Barrel Pin back in upside down!

It’s no wonder 8 of 16 Intake Valves were bent since it’s very possible that Intake CA was probably way out of Time, since even the force of the CamBolt at 115Nm ish most likely couldn’t help the CA from being spun out of alignment since the Cam Shafts only friction was due to its larger circumference being pressed against the slightly smaller ring of the upside down Cog of that CA!