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I need to replace the power steering hose which runs in front of the radiator, which appears to be a two piece hose. Anyhow, are there any special procedures to do this?
I read this :
"Then you must do the correct bleeding procedure from the start (without your car engine turned on, not even for a nano-second) and with the wheels in the air as high as is safe, pump that wheel back and forth until it gets progressively harder, to the point where you can hardly turn the wheel at all. This may mean more than 30 times, whatever it takes you need to get up to that almost impossible point that almost won't go any farther.
This procedure brings air up from deep down in the system, and with the Lubrisol which supposedly helps break up larger air pockets, and the fresh reservoir with screen - if there are not any leaks in the system you have missed, this should bring you to nirvana for a time. "
Will probably skip the Lubrisol but is the procedure accurate?
Thanks in advance.
Follow the tech bulleting instructions to turn the steering wheel lock to lock 30 times before starting the engine. The repair procedure does not make that clear.
Tech bulletin:
The W211.076 is included in this tech bulletin:
So the way ive done this on other cars since the pump needs to run in order to move the new fluid through the system is to empty the reservoir, disconnect the return line and place that in a bottle and then block off the return port in the reservoir. Next I fill the reservoir , start the car and while the car is running, someone turns the wheel from lock to lock, to move the old fluid into the capture bottle while new fluid is pumping in. Once I see new clean fluid coming out of the return line, I connect that back to the reservoir. You won't get air in the system as long as you dont start the car when the tank is low or empty. If disconnecting a feed line to the pump from the reservoir in order to clean or replace, make sure the line is full when reconnecting. Also, holding the wheel at lock with pressure (the thing you are not supposed to do) pumps the fluid constantly so depending how long you hold at lock, you may not need to do that thirty times before seeing clean oil. It's a fairly quick process.
It also appears the hose is two pieces and can be separated with 17mm and 19 mm wrenches. The split is underneath the car before it goes up into the rack. I really would rather not have to drop the rack. This would make the job a lot easier. I will look tomorrow.
I had pulley failure which took out both belts and pulled the power steering hose up into the crank which slightly split the hose.
Last edited by Fountain35; Oct 17, 2025 at 12:52 AM.
You do not have to drop the rack to replace the high-pressure and low-pressure lines. You'll need a replacement tie wrap because the one on the low side line will need to be clipped. Be sure to clean the area around the steering rack hose connections before opening the system. Disconnect the solenoid plug, then proceed with the removal.
The high-side hose should come with a new o-ring. Have a low-side o-ring on hand. Torque specs below.
Banjo bolt, pump (use new seals): 40 NM
Bolt, bracket to oil pan: 14 NM
Bolt, bracket to steering rack: 10 NM
Bolt, oil line retaining plate: 18 NM
One more thing. Do yourself a favor and protect the coolant pipe positioned near the power steering hose. The pipe is prone to puncture over time due to contact with the power steering hose.
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