Up on ramps - checking out underneath engine
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2015 E63s, 2012 E63-all done , Saab 9-5 Aero (2) Honda CBR 929-sold
Up on ramps - checking out underneath engine
Wanted to see what an oil change would entail, '12 oil change looks pretty straightforward from underneath. Can be done on normal ramps, but you need plank in front of ramps for clearance
Once up on ramps , you see 2 seperate plastic engine covers, front of engine and rear. The rear one needs to be removed for access to sump pan. 8 8mm selfstarting screws with attached washers come off easy to reveal sump.
Unfortunately, drain plug is at the front of sump, rather than rear, so unless you level out the car (2 floor jacks under rear jack points), not every bit of oil will drain out. Back of sump, where most pans drain from has electronic bit , which most likely is the oil level/temp? sensor.
Under the car, you can see there are no places to put jack stands, other than the jack points themselves, which does not work. 2 floor jacks with proper pucks that fit into jack points will get front or rear up, for wheel or brake access, but I need to do more discovery to see if there is a good place to add some safety/backups. No way is that safe setup for person to be under, and a jack failure would be catastrophic to suspension bits and car body parts.One thing I did not expect to see, a drop of oil on drain plug!! What the heck!! Apparently those drain plugs and washers do leak! hence the replace at every change requirement, but fresh from factory? 600 miles old?? not goodness..... Interesting to see painted calipers from underneath, as the brackets that calipers attatch to are also painted red. I took a few pics with my phone, hopefully clear enough for folks that are interested , more to follow- regards
Once up on ramps , you see 2 seperate plastic engine covers, front of engine and rear. The rear one needs to be removed for access to sump pan. 8 8mm selfstarting screws with attached washers come off easy to reveal sump.
Unfortunately, drain plug is at the front of sump, rather than rear, so unless you level out the car (2 floor jacks under rear jack points), not every bit of oil will drain out. Back of sump, where most pans drain from has electronic bit , which most likely is the oil level/temp? sensor.
Under the car, you can see there are no places to put jack stands, other than the jack points themselves, which does not work. 2 floor jacks with proper pucks that fit into jack points will get front or rear up, for wheel or brake access, but I need to do more discovery to see if there is a good place to add some safety/backups. No way is that safe setup for person to be under, and a jack failure would be catastrophic to suspension bits and car body parts.One thing I did not expect to see, a drop of oil on drain plug!! What the heck!! Apparently those drain plugs and washers do leak! hence the replace at every change requirement, but fresh from factory? 600 miles old?? not goodness..... Interesting to see painted calipers from underneath, as the brackets that calipers attatch to are also painted red. I took a few pics with my phone, hopefully clear enough for folks that are interested , more to follow- regards
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Appreciate the info and the pix. I was hoping there is a central jacking position ie under the engine supporting crossbeam so the car can be jacked up centrally and two stands placed. After draining, the car can be lowered on the ground for a while to enhance draining before jacking it back up to have the plug replaced before filling up with oil. Hmm, I wonder if I should just give it up and give this oil changing chore to the dealer. I guess I'm getting too old for it already, probably.
Yes, never get under a car supported with only the jack without the safety stands. There are too many freak accidents resulting from using only the jack. Speaking of that, if there is a place with solid reinforced trench for you to walk under, it would be a breeze.
Yes, never get under a car supported with only the jack without the safety stands. There are too many freak accidents resulting from using only the jack. Speaking of that, if there is a place with solid reinforced trench for you to walk under, it would be a breeze.
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2015 E63s, 2012 E63-all done , Saab 9-5 Aero (2) Honda CBR 929-sold
Thank you for the feedback. I need to remove the front plastic cover to see if indeed there is a structural cross member that would be a possible jack point. As for the ramps, which I prefer for a simple oil drain anyways, I was thinking I could ramp it on a slight decline, and the net would be a level car for the actual drain. I just have to decide at what point/mileage I want to do the first change. Considering they require 2k for the diff fluid if you are LSD equipped, it will definitely be before 2k. I am thinking 12-1500 miles . Many different schools of thought on this subject, but bottom line, an early "break in" change certainly is not harmful.