enzom

Was on at least my 3rd set of rears on my 05 E55 at 17,500 miles when I sold it. Could have been on my 4th set, but it was a while ago. 11kms for rear tires with that much torque and weight is not terrible. Hate to say it - you have to pay to play.

Forget "all seasons" There is a reason people call them "no seasons".

2012 merc amg

I guess I can't complain. I really think I can get at least another 2000 miles out of the bridgestones so that'll be 13 K miles total. Maybe there will still be enough rubber left to make it back up north next spring on them and change them out when I get there for the summer. I would think between now and late April I'll do no more than 2k miles on the car and then 1400 miles back up there from Florida.

cmginc

I got 4k miles, yes miles, on the OEM tires on my C63 before the need to replace - 11k would have been great to see. My E63's were better, but generally in the 12-15k mile range.

jim911

funny listening to this, but I appreciate the comments.

after doing PCA track days for 25 years, spending $1200 on a set of tires twice a summer, and $1100 for brake pads twice a summer plus all the brake fluid, oil changes after every event etc. rear tires don't seem to bad.

What I don't understand is complaining about tire wear and coming off the line in the same breath!

Its the nature of the beast!

Critter

Yes Jim911, it does sound like a Homer Simpson moment, doouh! my tires are worn out, I got more mileage from the civic when it was hellaflush

2012 merc amg

I guess I'm just surprised because the tires do not seem to have spun at all since I put them on, no burnouts or that type of thing. It's just gotta be all the torque going to them combined with the soft rubber compound. With them not spinning I thought for sure I'd get around 20K or so miles. At any rate, still about 1/32 of a inch or so to the wear bar so I might go another 3K miles or so and end up replacing them at 14K miles, so not all bad. The tires have not got noisy or anything.

jim911

You can feel the rubber clawing at the road under full throttle which peels the rubber off. In addition to that, cars or suv's with with large tires and aggressive alignment settings all get bad tire wear. My 550I Bmw went through rears in 6000 miles, and I never , hardly ever , got on it off the line. Same with Cayenne, terrible tire wear.

Kind of a trade off for performance

Critter

The wear bars are for safety purposes, and a reminder that the tires are nearing their useful safe life. These tires close to the bars will hydroplane if driven in wet weather and therefore should be changed out immediately if this is the weather patterns in your area. Tires near their lifespan are only safe for dry conditions, have you heard the phrase (Running on borrowed time), good example.

PeterUbers

It's also small percentages of diameter over rotation (slip) not perceived by the driver or nannies on every hard launch and hard turn that leaves rubber on the pavement

K-Mac

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!


Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe and situations where there is still insufficient rear Toe once the issue of lack of Camber adjustment is overcome!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts that require labour intensive jacking and disassembly each time to alter. K-MAC kits only require use of a single wrench to accurately adjust on car (under load) direct on alignment rack.


Providing “ongoing” full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). The unique K-MAC patented design only requires use of the single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits are manufactured for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact, at K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.


Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!


Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.


K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.

vdubpower

really K mac, what the f

2012 merc amg

Interesting stuff Kmac, but it's the whole tire that is wearing on the rears evenly across, not just the inside or outside. Fronts look great with 11K miles on them now. I'm down to 2/32'nds of a inch on the rears, I do drive fairly aggressively so that's probably most of it at least in my case. 2/32'nds is 20 percent left so I should probably change them with a thousand miles to be safe.

ace10

That post is pure spam. It has nothing to do with your concern, and everything to do with that sponsor plastering the same sale pitch all over this forum. Over and over and over and over and over.

vdubpower

yeah the mods need to get them off of here, these forums are becoming trash

the sons of *****es try to act like they are replying to a post by setting in their post.....who the heck they thing we are

PeterUbers

Cool vid of awd launch

K-Mac

Yes in your case wearing evenly is all to do with tire quality.


Do hope we have informed, clarified re situation when it comes to wheel alignment, adjustment capability.


As majority of owners are simply not aware that today the statement "Full front and rear alignment" - only actual adjustment available is front and rear Toe!

Clk63blkseries

Don't feel to bad I get 60 min out of the race slicks at $2,200 a pop

RoninAMG

I've got a 2010 E63 and its a daily driver even in the Midwest. I didn't have enough time to find a set of summer wheels that I really liked to put winter Blizzaks on my stock wheels so I simply put on a set of "All Season" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's with a warranty rating of 45K. Because this car is staggered the warranty rating is cut in half. So in other words I basically have a 22.5K mile warranty rather than the 45K mile warranty. Now let me start off by saying I'm an Enthusiastic driver, but no Track Days were done nor burn outs. With that said I tore through my rears in just over 6K miles. YES, 6K miles in 6 months on a tire that's rated for nearly 4 times that. The shop that I bought these from simply calculated the proration and I basically picked up a new set of rears for about $40 each. The tab was just under $150 for the new rears with Mounting/Installation and TPMS rebuild kit, as well as all those other bull**** charges (tire disposal, IL state stick it up your crapper tax, etc.) new set of rears for $150 every 6 months. Sounds good to me. But what sounds even better is finding a set of wheels for the summer with Michelin Super Sports and Blizzaks on the OEM's.

2012 merc amg

The problem is the Pole Position tires I use don't have a warranty and the all season would not hook up good enough. I really do like the bridgestones though and I'd probably only get around 11K miles outta the Michelins I'm willing to bet.

cnolke

After 15k miles my Contisport Contacts (came on the car and went 21k miles, were replaced by the dealer with identical rears 15k miles ago.) have to go

One of the tires has a hole (form a screw) on the inside edge of the tread. The plug doesnt hold for more than a week. Because the tires came form the dealership, they didnt add any kind of insurance, so I need to buy two matching rears.

I ordered Pirelli P-Zeros to be installed by America's Tire. I also got insurance this time.