Engine Ticking Noise in the 2015
09-27-2018, 08:42 PM
#1
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Engine Ticking Noise in the 2015
Hey Guys,
Please have a listen to this. Sounds a bit like the spun rod bearing in my 2011. But not as bad and it doesn’t seem to be getting any worse. Also, unlike the 2011, it is not audible above about 1100 rpm in drive or in park. It also gets quieter when warmed up. It is hard to pin down with hood open but it does seem to be lower end. Ugh. That is why the video has the door open to best hear it.
Anybody have valvetrain that sounds like this? I suppose the good news is that she is still under full original factory warranty!
The spun rod bearing in the 2011 had much harsher hammering sound and it was worse at higher rpms. Even in park.
Have a listen:
Please have a listen to this. Sounds a bit like the spun rod bearing in my 2011. But not as bad and it doesn’t seem to be getting any worse. Also, unlike the 2011, it is not audible above about 1100 rpm in drive or in park. It also gets quieter when warmed up. It is hard to pin down with hood open but it does seem to be lower end. Ugh. That is why the video has the door open to best hear it.
Anybody have valvetrain that sounds like this? I suppose the good news is that she is still under full original factory warranty!
The spun rod bearing in the 2011 had much harsher hammering sound and it was worse at higher rpms. Even in park.
Have a listen:
09-27-2018, 08:57 PM
#3
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Sorry for the short video. 5MB limit only allows for about 7 seconds at 720p resolution which is my minimum res stting on this ipad.
09-27-2018, 10:19 PM
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Sounds like a lifter or cam....
does it vary with rpm increase?
does it vary with rpm increase?
09-29-2018, 10:46 AM
#5
Senior Member
Sounds fine, mine ticks a bit too. The high pressure fuel injectors are noisy
10-01-2018, 11:20 AM
#7
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Thanks guys for the replies. I don't believe it is normal. Because it came on rather suddenly out of nowhere. It wasn't like I have always had it and I am just now wondering what it is. I am taking it in to the dealer here very soon. If it is as simple as a belt tensioner that would be awesome. I suspect it is something worse though. We will see and I will update you guys later.
Cheers
Cheers
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10-31-2018, 02:30 PM
#9
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UPDATE:
Well,
The unofficial preliminary diagnosis is BOTTOM END AGAIN! How can 1 guy have 2 different cars with different motors have back to back bottom end failures inside of 12 months? Unbelievable. I am still waiting for the official call which should happen by tomorrow. At least it's under full factory warranty still. I just had all the beautiful body and paint work done from the rear-ender and the front end refinish and I can't even inspect it. It went straight from the collision center to the service guys. And If a new motor or a rebuild happens, I will be luck to see this car by Christmas! Ugh.
Based on the readily available knowledge from this service advisor on the topic of bottom end issues, I am left wondering if this type of failure is not more common than MB wants us to know. I do not abuse my cars. I maintain them with obsession! I have never hit rev limiter. The only thing I can think of is if there is a limitation in reliability as a result of aggressive down shifting/engine braking. I mean I don't do it recklessly. Plus the trans won't let you down shift if you are doing something stupid like going down to 1st for example at 60 mph. But perhaps the change in torque direction that occurs at the crank when the engine goes from powering the car to braking the car could cause a rod bearing issue? But then why put in paddle shifters? I am just at a loss.
I will update again hopefully tomorrow when I have a definitive answer.
The unofficial preliminary diagnosis is BOTTOM END AGAIN! How can 1 guy have 2 different cars with different motors have back to back bottom end failures inside of 12 months? Unbelievable. I am still waiting for the official call which should happen by tomorrow. At least it's under full factory warranty still. I just had all the beautiful body and paint work done from the rear-ender and the front end refinish and I can't even inspect it. It went straight from the collision center to the service guys. And If a new motor or a rebuild happens, I will be luck to see this car by Christmas! Ugh.
Based on the readily available knowledge from this service advisor on the topic of bottom end issues, I am left wondering if this type of failure is not more common than MB wants us to know. I do not abuse my cars. I maintain them with obsession! I have never hit rev limiter. The only thing I can think of is if there is a limitation in reliability as a result of aggressive down shifting/engine braking. I mean I don't do it recklessly. Plus the trans won't let you down shift if you are doing something stupid like going down to 1st for example at 60 mph. But perhaps the change in torque direction that occurs at the crank when the engine goes from powering the car to braking the car could cause a rod bearing issue? But then why put in paddle shifters? I am just at a loss.
I will update again hopefully tomorrow when I have a definitive answer.
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Utopia Texas (11-28-2018)
10-31-2018, 02:42 PM
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Unreal man....
10-31-2018, 04:48 PM
#11
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WOW, sorry to hear that man..
That noise didnt sound like anything too serious at all! Did they pull the pan to check the bottom end or how was this diagnosis done?
Good luck man.
That noise didnt sound like anything too serious at all! Did they pull the pan to check the bottom end or how was this diagnosis done?
Good luck man.
10-31-2018, 07:18 PM
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2014 E63s 1993 mazda rx7 on Boost
VRod
It went straight from the collision center to the service guys..
Was the car in good health when it went in for paint. After paint this issue is heard. Could it be the paint shop guys were having fun with your ride and who know what they did.
my toes and fingers crossed it not the motor but lifters/cams.
Was the car in good health when it went in for paint. After paint this issue is heard. Could it be the paint shop guys were having fun with your ride and who know what they did.
my toes and fingers crossed it not the motor but lifters/cams.
10-31-2018, 10:54 PM
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E63 SL55 996TT C5Z06
Well,
The unofficial preliminary diagnosis is BOTTOM END AGAIN! How can 1 guy have 2 different cars with different motors have back to back bottom end failures inside of 12 months? Unbelievable. I am still waiting for the official call which should happen by tomorrow. At least it's under full factory warranty still. I just had all the beautiful body and paint work done from the rear-ender and the front end refinish and I can't even inspect it. It went straight from the collision center to the service guys. And If a new motor or a rebuild happens, I will be luck to see this car by Christmas! Ugh.
Based on the readily available knowledge from this service advisor on the topic of bottom end issues, I am left wondering if this type of failure is not more common than MB wants us to know. I do not abuse my cars. I maintain them with obsession! I have never hit rev limiter. The only thing I can think of is if there is a limitation in reliability as a result of aggressive down shifting/engine braking. I mean I don't do it recklessly. Plus the trans won't let you down shift if you are doing something stupid like going down to 1st for example at 60 mph. But perhaps the change in torque direction that occurs at the crank when the engine goes from powering the car to braking the car could cause a rod bearing issue? But then why put in paddle shifters? I am just at a loss.
I will update again hopefully tomorrow when I have a definitive answer.
The unofficial preliminary diagnosis is BOTTOM END AGAIN! How can 1 guy have 2 different cars with different motors have back to back bottom end failures inside of 12 months? Unbelievable. I am still waiting for the official call which should happen by tomorrow. At least it's under full factory warranty still. I just had all the beautiful body and paint work done from the rear-ender and the front end refinish and I can't even inspect it. It went straight from the collision center to the service guys. And If a new motor or a rebuild happens, I will be luck to see this car by Christmas! Ugh.
Based on the readily available knowledge from this service advisor on the topic of bottom end issues, I am left wondering if this type of failure is not more common than MB wants us to know. I do not abuse my cars. I maintain them with obsession! I have never hit rev limiter. The only thing I can think of is if there is a limitation in reliability as a result of aggressive down shifting/engine braking. I mean I don't do it recklessly. Plus the trans won't let you down shift if you are doing something stupid like going down to 1st for example at 60 mph. But perhaps the change in torque direction that occurs at the crank when the engine goes from powering the car to braking the car could cause a rod bearing issue? But then why put in paddle shifters? I am just at a loss.
I will update again hopefully tomorrow when I have a definitive answer.
11-01-2018, 11:57 AM
#14
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It went straight from the collision center to the service guys..
Was the car in good health when it went in for paint. After paint this issue is heard. Could it be the paint shop guys were having fun with your ride and who know what they did.
my toes and fingers crossed it not the motor but lifters/cams.
Was the car in good health when it went in for paint. After paint this issue is heard. Could it be the paint shop guys were having fun with your ride and who know what they did.
my toes and fingers crossed it not the motor but lifters/cams.
11-01-2018, 12:03 PM
#15
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I don't have the final word yet. Should know more by the end of the day. It looks like either a new crank and bearings as a minimum or a new short block if the cylinders are scored at all (which is unlikely). Ugh. I really do not like the idea of some tech at a dealer rebuilding my bottom end. But what choice do I have. I would actually rather get a whole new short block. And there is still a small possibility that it is not bottom end, but valve train instead. Stay tuned!
11-02-2018, 01:39 PM
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C63 W204 / E63S W212 / E63S W212
If you dont mind me asking whats your oil change intervals? Considering it has a tune as well, because many say that the 10k mile interval is way too long even for a stock m157. Eitherway wish you luck with getting it fixed.
11-02-2018, 02:05 PM
#17
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With all of that said, I am wondering if maybe this is not more common that we realize. For instance, this noise never got worse after a month of driving it this way and as people have commented, it didn't sound that bad. Maybe these bearings can get marginal but not get catastrophic? Seems counter intuitive. Usually these rod bearings unravel quick once trouble begins as I understand them. But maybe some of you guys hearing the "same sound" in your cars has something like this and you just don't realize it? I hope not honestly. But the whole thing is just weird.
BTW, yesterday my SA was hinting they might end up putting in a whole new long block as a result rather than deal with a rebuild. I'LL TAKE THAT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! :-) Hopefully I know more by the end of today.
11-02-2018, 02:12 PM
#18
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My 2010 E350 did the same thing, noise and it was the belt slapping and the tensioner going bad! The dealer fixed it under the warranty. I had a similar light ticking noise on start up and added a bottle of Bestline Premium synthetic engine treatment and the sound went away instantly! It was rather expensive but I used a half a bottle at the 5,000 mile mark between oil changes. I change the filter at the 5,000 mile mark and change the oil at 10,000. Try it can't hurt, makes my engine run smoother and quieter!
11-02-2018, 02:29 PM
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I had an oil change done immediately after buying her at 30k miles. According to my service advisor when he looked up the car's history, it had been maintained well by the prior owner/leaser. Seems unlikely that the tune is involved since many guys on this forum have this type of tune and well beyond (larger turbos, new down pipes, catless, etc) and don't report bottom end issues.
With all of that said, I am wondering if maybe this is not more common that we realize. For instance, this noise never got worse after a month of driving it this way and as people have commented, it didn't sound that bad. Maybe these bearings can get marginal but not get catastrophic? Seems counter intuitive. Usually these rod bearings unravel quick once trouble begins as I understand them. But maybe some of you guys hearing the "same sound" in your cars has something like this and you just don't realize it? I hope not honestly. But the whole thing is just weird.
BTW, yesterday my SA was hinting they might end up putting in a whole new long block as a result rather than deal with a rebuild. I'LL TAKE THAT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! :-) Hopefully I know more by the end of today.
With all of that said, I am wondering if maybe this is not more common that we realize. For instance, this noise never got worse after a month of driving it this way and as people have commented, it didn't sound that bad. Maybe these bearings can get marginal but not get catastrophic? Seems counter intuitive. Usually these rod bearings unravel quick once trouble begins as I understand them. But maybe some of you guys hearing the "same sound" in your cars has something like this and you just don't realize it? I hope not honestly. But the whole thing is just weird.
BTW, yesterday my SA was hinting they might end up putting in a whole new long block as a result rather than deal with a rebuild. I'LL TAKE THAT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! :-) Hopefully I know more by the end of today.
11-02-2018, 02:30 PM
#20
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My 2010 E350 did the same thing, noise and it was the belt slapping and the tensioner going bad! The dealer fixed it under the warranty. I had a similar light ticking noise on start up and added a bottle of Bestline Premium synthetic engine treatment and the sound went away instantly! It was rather expensive but I used a half a bottle at the 5,000 mile mark between oil changes. I change the filter at the 5,000 mile mark and change the oil at 10,000. Try it can't hurt, makes my engine run smoother and quieter!
11-06-2018, 11:34 AM
#21
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UPDATE:
So the latest, as of last night, is that I will need a new block at minimum! UGH. They found scoring in 1 or 2 cylinders using a bore scope. They are now set to pull the motor out today and determine the extent of the total damage. If they find other issues such as rods or crank (which I have a feeling they will), they will give me a new engine. If they don't find any other significant damage, then it looks like a bottom end rebuild with new block and new pistons. Considering they mentioned that the scoring looked like piston slap, I have a feeling there is more to this.
The whole thing is still a bit surprising as the noise just didn't seem that bad. Makes me wonder if the dealer WANTS to have this type of repair for revenue? Hmmmmm
I will update again as soon as I know more which should be later today.
The whole thing is still a bit surprising as the noise just didn't seem that bad. Makes me wonder if the dealer WANTS to have this type of repair for revenue? Hmmmmm
I will update again as soon as I know more which should be later today.
11-06-2018, 12:50 PM
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Well vrod if this doesn't trigger any issues with the factory warranty and your ams tune then we can officially unofficially say the ecu swap is the best way to go for tuning
11-06-2018, 01:31 PM
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11-26-2018, 02:17 PM
#25
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I will also be updating that thread today or tomorrow as I picked up the car with the new engine 5 days ago. So far so great! Of course I am babying her for the first 500 or so. But quiet and ultra smooth in idle and feels like she really wants to launch. But I am using full will power and restraint to not give in until 500. At about 100 now and will update after I am able to start jumping on it.
