amgwagonne

Hey folks, I just bought my new-to-me dream car 2014 E63 AMG S wagon and have been absolutely thrilled with it. Happy to join the family here!

For those of you who have had experience using brake-torquing to launch, what's the right technique for the MCT transmission? I've brake-torqued in automatics and understand that it's loading up the torque converter. Since the MCT has a clutch pack instead, is brake torquing similar to burning up the clutch on a manual transmission? Before this car, I drove a 6spd stick so that's scenario I envision when 1) engine is revving, 2) car is trying to move but stopped by an opposite force (brakes in this case).

Is that the correct interpretation? And either way, is brake torquing harmful to the lifespan of the MCT? Thanks!

FYI, in case it matters, the reason I'm asking about this is because I've read that brake-torquing helps with the initial hesitation when trying to take a quick left turn after coming to a complete stop.

PeterUbers

https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...-mct-e63s.html

amgwagonne

Thanks Peter for the link. Do you know the answers to my questions about the MCT in regards to brake torquing?

Speedy55

It’s definitely not good for the transmission...

PeterUbers

Use LC if you can and minimize brake torquing

timm206

Its not good for the Wet start up clutch or other clutch packs, i believe the tcu doesnt fully pressurize the clutch packs when engaging the LC untill you let go of the brake. Now with brake-torquing the tcu fully pressurizes the clutch pack thinking youre trying to take off and therefore putting higher levels of stress on the whole transmission. Brake-torquing may lead to clutch slipping sooner. Also the AWD is already harder on the tranny out of the box, because the tires cant slip, the tranny has to digest all the power.

amgwagonne

Thanks for the responses, guys. Appreciate it! Based on this consensus, I will refrain from brake torquing the MCT. =]

PeterUbers

And try the sprint booster

Savage212

Cannot say how the Wet Clutch setup handles 'break torquing' but will say with 100% certainty 4matic can spin the tires. In fact it can leave stripes.

timm206

With proper and warmed up tires a stock e63s wont spin on any decent surface and definitely wont leave stripes. Lol i wanna see someone leave stripes from a launch with ps4s’s with a stock e63s. Considering we have a tcu that limits tq early on, i dont really see it happening. No matter what the scenario is, awd is always gonna spin alot less than rwd.

Savage212

I am tuned, it 100% leaves stripes. 4matic on Ps4's fresh this season. Do not recall spinning much on the stock tune. However you will find most people replacing rear tires earlier than the fronts...............

timm206

If you read carefully i mentioned “out of the box”, if you dont know what that means i can translate. Or try at least. Yes they replace rear tires sooner because its 33/67 split lol, now guess why the rear would wear out sooner? Maybe your car uses rocket fuel we wouldnt know.

Savage212

Yes, I understood. I added "I am tuned" to show I had carefully read your reply. I might also contend that, a 'Stock' E63 may spin the rear tires. The 33/67 split would make it even more possible as the fronts do little work. The amount of tire spin may be minimal however present, thus the extra wear in the rear tires. After all even an "Stock" E63s has what 577 tq? Not a huge stretch to believe a little slippage is possible.

FYI, My E63 will spin the tires on pump gas ( 93 octane ) here where I am. I would be scared to use rocket fuel, it may just fly away.

timm206

If you tune it enough you can snap the driveshaft too. Why compare the way a tuned car performs when im talking about a stock car? Like i said under decent conditions it wont spin or leave stripes while stock, i have a 4matic e63 btw. Even if theres a spin , its so minimal that you cant even tell or enough to destroy your rear tires. Its 577 hp and 590tq. Yes the 33/67 split would make it more likely for the rear tires to spin but the TCU has tq limitations, further diminishing that possibility. By the time the tcu allows full tq, youre already rolling. You dont need to spin to chew thru tires, just drive it aggresive and see. Anyways my point was that the 4matic stresses the transmission more, thats all. Not trying to prove anything to anyone or be rude. Im no expert by any means, just practice common sense.

Thanks and good day/evening.

727E63AMG

Brake boosting with traction off is the best way to launch the car.....will it put wear on the clutchpakcs and tranny..Im sure but after 500plus launches and 759whp 800+whtq still no problems 💪

Lumi

Launch control on this car will cause less wear IMHO.

not saying that LC doesnt put strain or wear on the car, but it is programmed to do so in a smooth and controlled manner via the tcu software.

brake tq i can see putting alot of pressure and strain on the start up wet clutches, i wouldnt hold that brake tq stance for long, more pressure and heat build up on the whole deivetrain. A quick brake tq release is prob ideal.

End of the day, neither will yeild anything dramatic since the tcu cuts tq regardless

jvakos

That’s awesome 759whp what tune / mods you running?

when you brake boost what RPM do you launch at? I can’t seem to get it above 2500-2800 with brake boost and traction full off? Race start goes 4K RPM and launches consistently but I’ve never hit better than 1.9 sec 60ft time on race start (tested on **** chicsgo roads do maybe that’s my problem )

727E63AMG

When u brake boost u have to hit the gas all the way instead of gradualy...I usally take it up to about 2800-2900 and let go of the brakes...if u hold it for longer the rpms will fall...u just have to practice to hit it at the exact spot before the rpms cut off. My best 60ft at 2500 ft altitude here in Boise ID was 1.70 on stock wheels and tires (not the best tread on tires)...the adjusted DA is usally above 3500ft ...Im sure at sea level I could hit 1.6x
Aa far as the mods Eurocharged custom tune pure turbo stg2 catless dps udp intake spacers no resonators and ice tank in the trunk.

e65

If I give heavy throttle with the foot on the brake the car stumbles at about 1200rpm and wont rev higher.

If I give light throttle the RPMs go up and then come back down when this happens then I can give more throttle and go up to 1500, 2000, 2500 rpm etc depending on how much throttle I give.

I have never given full throttle with the brakes on, I just assumed something would snap. Do you hit the brake and mash the throttle or do you hold part throttle first and then give Full Throttle?

Savage212

Hold the brake and mash the throttle, I typically don't need to go 100% to get around ~2500 rpm.