Hey guys,

Big issue with this CLS63. A little bit of history...

This car blew the motor (stretched timing chain) at 90k miles. Solution was I got a beyond repair SL63 hit from the back with 30k miles and threw the engine AND gearbox into the CLS63 because the gearbox has 30k miles on it too so why not.

Now obviously the gearbox module had to be swapped. So the sump was dropped, oil dropped, oil was purchased (GENUINE MERCEDES ATF), new bigger capacity sump put in, gearbox module swapped and ATF filled again accounting for the extra fluid with the bigger sump. Now obviously the adaptations have to be reset/reprogrammed due to the lesser KMs and the tech that worked on it supposedly done that.

The car has a PP Performance box tune. The new engine is STRONG. When WOT it cut out alot but that was assumed to be TC and ESP intervention although it was never like that before. Maybe the new engine is alot healthier. It just felt like an animal.

The new issue is that the gearbox feels like it lets go at moderate to WOT throttle. Like between shifts it's like it slips. I put a video below, at the very end it does it alot but it's hard to see and hear. The car has downpipes too so it's raspy. This happens alot with ESP turned fully off and WOT.

Could it be the adaptations weren't done right. Could it be improper driving after new engine/gearbox was installed after adaptations was reset and not enough time was given for the adaptations to settle or is that not even a thing? I don't know who to take it to everyone in Australia is an idiot when it comes to Merc or euro tuning I don't trust them. If I was stateside I would go to Weistec or Eurocharged or whatever but here we have bob's backyard mechanic with a $2 scanner. I don't trust the guy who done the adaptations anymore. He knows his stuff in some thigns but again, after this I can't go back to him.

What do you guys think it is?

https://gofile.io/?c=Kvq8ze

 

I think as a first thing you should find someone who has proper equipment to do a proper adaptation reset, full reset i mean shift points and clutch-pack fill times. Just like one would do when they’d install new clutch-packs. The way its behaving right now is not something usual, when i bought my car i had the adaptations fully reset by the MB dealer and there was no such behavior, only thing i noticed was that the shifts were harsh for the first about 200 miles. Mostly the downshift were harsh but nothing like your situation. Another step would be getting rid of the box tune.

 

OK, I'll see who can do that properly. The guy who done it when the new drivetrain went in has the right equipment but maybe he doesn't know what he's doing.

I don't think it's the tune because the tune has been there for a long time and with the older drivetrain which has more miles on it so it should be ok.

 

You CAN NOT swap the conductor plate only from 1 transmission to another. You must swap the complete valve body/conductor plate assembly or it will never shift properly.

You need to find a reputable shop or dealer, stop letting backyard hack mechanics mess up your car

 

Wait hold on though, I'm not sure maybe he did that but also, isn't it better to use the valve body from the gearbox which has lower mileage? The original valve body has 90k miles on it vs 30k for the new one. The only reason for swapping the module is for the security for the car to start since it's VIN related. To be honest maybe the tech actually didn't swapped anything, I think maybe he virginized the new gearbox's ECU and reflashed it to talk to the car's ECU thereby just doing a virginize then handshake.

 

no offense, but im more interested in you blowing a motor at 90k because of a stretched timing chain. especially since im at 81k looking into getting a tune...

 

None taken. What do you mean? Do you mean how could I do that or how could it happen?

These have a timing chain problem in some of the earlier engines you can check which ones are affected, do a search for it. I didn't catch it early I was stupid. Usually a camshaft position sensor would indicate timing chain if it's not a bad sensor but I just thought it couldn't be the case at such low miles but apparently it's a defect like the M156 headbolt/bucket problem.