OldManAndHisCar

Yeah, and my new (not free) FCP Euro order of just at $1.6k will be here tomorrow - I need to get an RMA and send it all back. I guess that is a good thing.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Your approach to solving this problem was "reasonable" though I would have a hard time not being pissed off throwing thousands of dollars at the wrong diagnosis. Who found the cause of the problem? Who told you to swap everything out to begin with? Or was that self-diagnosis? Not sure how you approached this with the shop. Did you say, "I have a problem. Please fix it."? Or did you say, "I have a problem. Please replace this and that and this."?

If it was the first scenario, then I would be rethinking using that shop again. If it was the latter, then lesson learned about parts canons.

Didn't you post that the clicking noise predated replacing the pads and rotors? If so, what pads did you have before?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Yep, Parts Canon. (Let's see, how else can I rub it in?)

OldManAndHisCar

Yep. Truth be told, one of the CVs had a torn boot - so, both of those were getting replaced anyway - plus the motor was going to be lifted for motor/trans mounts...so, it was a good time to do it. The other shaft was just an oh by the way as we were there.....I guess none of us had ever taken a pad and twisted it nipples....

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Then alles gut!

OldManAndHisCar

So - finally got the answer....I blame myself. I checked over and over and over again....but, this 100% is the culprit.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

A cracked wheel? Why didn't you lose air pressure?

OldManAndHisCar

That is what is even crazier as I was not losing air. Dropping off our GLS at the shop today to get a price on motor mounts and a transmission mount we were just all shaking our heads trying to figure out how many dozens of times we looked at that wheel

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

It's even stranger that you were convinced the sound was on both sides of the car. Crazy!

OldManAndHisCar

on a positive note the wheel I purchased to replace the broken one was slightly over $500 and I feel that I got a great deal on a wheel that looks brand new

OldManAndHisCar

What I had failed to mention is there were two cracks. In the past the wheel had been welded and that weld obviously failed. 180° from that weld somebody had put on a hammer on weight which really ticked me off when I saw it but it was there and I just kind of left it. Under that weight was another crack which explains why the click was two times per rotation not once per rotation

cotmfk

Do you have a link to where you ordered from?

OldManAndHisCar

https://wheelsamerica.com/?product_c...t_type=product

cotmfk

Awesome, thank you!

OldManAndHisCar

Plus, I guess they are mailing me a check for my old wheel that I had sent them....so -$75.00 or something like that.

san40

quite a detective story - glad you figured it out!

OldManAndHisCar

The wheel got cheaper! 😁 They paid me for the cracked one.

OldManAndHisCar

Reading this thread again....wow. This was a thing. Looking back - yes, "Parts Canon". The only thing that I think I "threw" at the car was the wheel bearings. This is the first car in a long time that I did not purchase from a dealership lot...never know what happened in the past. The shop (Tucker Motorsports) tried a couple of times to talk me out of them...but, hey, if I am mad at my money they may as well get it as they deserve it for putting up with me.

We looked at that wheel so many times. Sprayed it again and again with water. Literally, not until we dunked it in a freaking jacuzzi did it bubble...and then SLOOOOOOOOOW bubble. It was one bubble after about twenty minutes that indicated the crack. After I knocked on the wheel sensor and scrubbed it with a brush it bubbled, still slowly.

Thank you all for all the suggestions....I am not so bright...I had a cracked freaking wheel. Jeesh.