450 to 600 - that's quite a jump.

 

Nah, why would I want a car I've passed with ease on the track...

 

Ever get the GLC 63 install done and aligned? Curious if these would be a necessary evil on my GLC 43 if lowering....

 

The same day I got them, the car rides perfectly with even tire wear across the thread..

 

Great to hear!! Did you do anything to the rear suspension when lowering? For the change in camber as well?

 

The rear is stock and I haven't noticed any unusual tire wear.

 

I too had bad experience with K-Macs on my W205 front and rear. Just unusable junk. I was lucky enough to be able to press the original bushings back in (it was very difficult) so I wasn’t out of pocket for replacement arms. The teeth for their locking system also gouged and marred the aluminium subframe.

 

How did you set the adjustment nut on the threads. On both sides, mine moved and were free spinning after install. This caused movement and noticed the top not on the UCA (Outer top nut) became loose as well. Any ideas? They were tightened down multiple times

 

Once the lock nut is tightened it should not loosen up if done right.

 

They are Australian trash. I've had bad experience with two Australian performance part vendor/parts company. K-Mac and the Zac motorosports. Both trash. They have no idea what they're doing and i'll never be doing any business with them.

 

Trying to figure out what "done right" would be. Is the lock nut tightened closest to the "U" section of the upper control arm or next to the Outer Upper Ball Joint? The reason I ask is that the manufacturer doesn't really give much explanation regarding their product, so for myself and everyone else, I would greatly appreciate any knowledge you could throw out to the group

 

I have no idea what you are doing, there is one lock nut on the damn thing it is tightened up against the "U" the upper control arm..
People with zero automotive skills should never work on their own car let alone any car..

 

Thank you for verifying what was "correctly" done to mine during install. Both sides loosened up, as well as, the upper ball joint nut on top. All 4 were tight and locked down. This is the reason I asked for clarification. I'm sorry to have bothered you with the details. It's a shame that you assume people don't know "anything" because they ask for clarification from someone that is having success with a part that they are having issues with. That is all. Thank you again for your time and for steering the community into this direction vs the issues with the Kmac direction, as it looks like many people have had issues with their bushings.

 

I would add a few drops of locktite on the threads and retighten the lock nut just incase it should back off again.

 

I installed the F1 Fabrications to my W211 E63 with Airmatic back in 2018 when I did my Intake and both Heads, Brakes etc. I eventually figured out how to correct a pull to the right with it, but 6k miles later, the fronts were not doing so well. This time around with new tires, the guys tried to correct from the Rear where I have the UPD Toe Arms installed. I didn't have with me a Crowfoot Rachet attachement so they ruined the look of the new Red UPD Arms!! In fact, the previous spot I took it to Tightened them up so much, these guys couldn't bust it loose! God forbid they Remove the Tire to take off the Toe Arm, but that would be too difficult!! So home I went, removed the Tow Arm, put it in a Vise and took my Hammer Drill to it and busted it loose! Ordered the Crowfoot and back to the shop I went where he continued to try to correct the pull/drift to the right, and it got a little better, but it still drifts right.

As for the F1 Fabrication Arms being adjustable on the Hunter Alignment Machine, I do fail to see how they could do it, that is unless they were able to jack up the front enough to get a wrench on the upper Nut of the Arm (if you do the lower, then you need to use a ball joint splitter) and then release all airmatic pressure, disco the Arm from the Carrier, adjust, reinstall then lower and then recharge with Air? I can do the adjustment lickety split in the garage with just one jack, STAR, etc., but a shop surely wont do it unless you there to hold thier hand!! I even explained to the guy that the Camber was so easily adjustable, but he did't want to touch it since it was "within Spec"!!!

So I've taken it upon myself again to correct the Drift so I just installed a Fluted "Crash" bolt on the Passenger Side to create more positive Caster (ie-pulling the Carrier towards the front) which itself causes the Camber to slightly be adjusted more positive (ie-more upright). I have one of those cool magnetic digital angle measurement tools that I can stick to the Caliper and see just how much Camber offset was caused by the install of one of those Crash bolts ( approx .22 degrees per the Tool, BENZ Notes state the change is +9' minutes Camber and +40' Caster) and will adjust the F1 Upper Arm accordingly. I haven't yet tested it yet as the Airmatic Shock I had rebuilt by RMT on that side was leaking oil so I just got it back from them. I'll take it for a test ride to see if that helps correct the drift and then get her on a set of 4 linoleum pads all measured out to correct for the slope in my garage to mimic the car being on a level floor!! I'll get measurements for Camber after making sure Airmatic is all dialed in and the levels are where they should be. Then if still not driving right, I'll either try to adust Camber on each side to promote a corrective pull to the left (ie-more negative Camber on Passenger Side, more Positive Camber on Driver Side) or I'll install another Fluted "Crash" Bolt to the Driver Side Torque Arm to reduce Caster (ie-make less Positive) and see what happens. Once I'm satified with the car driving straight as it should, then I'll get it back on the levelling pads and set up some lines with spacers on each front tire to correct for the difference in Track Width (on my E63 the Front Track Width is 9mm Shorter than the Rear-so 4.5mm per side) and adjust the Toe!! Only after correcting the Drift Right myself might I then go get it "Aligned" (ie-set Toe)!!!

 

How long did you guys drop?

 

I dropped about 10K miles ago.

 

Sorry I meant how much did you drop?

 

20mm

 

Couple people I talked to who are lowered , never got the issues where they needed to install these.

Some dropped 30 some dropped 32.

I am dropped 25mm right now , will be doing alignment in about a week or week and a half.

Toe affect tires much more than the camber.

 

So I've been running these F1 Fabrication/ TheCamberKing arms for a while now and I've had two recurring issues with them:

1. The locking nuts keep loosening up regardless of tightening or loctite blue. I've contacted the manufacturer and he does not have recommended torque specs so my techs are in the dark.

2. The heim joints start groaning loudly after time. First set lasted about a year, the second set is shot after two months.

I'm wondering if anyone else has encountered this, and what if anything they've done to remedy it. I have seen that K-Mac now has similar front control arms that look more like OEM but I've sunk a decent amount of cash, time and effort into these at this point.

 

On occasion I'll hear a goaning when I put it into reverse and back up slowly. I'm taking it in for a slow leak and I'll have them check it out and then report back here.

 

Delete post please...quoted response from above with answer.

 

You are not alone..I completely removed them after they caused tons of noise, creaking, groaning, you name it. They are not a quality piece and will end up completely failing in short time. I, like you, have had them on for roughly a year and are completely seized. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND. I went back to OEM arms and the ride is better and no noises at all. I will deal with inner tire wear or wait for Modalworks to come out with theirs in the next few months

 

Sorry to see the issues some of you are having with these. I've had my F1 fab upper control arms on the Fronts only for almost 2 years now with zero problems.
I went with the OEM bushings, and have not had any noise, creaking or any problems with bolts/nuts backing out. Just wanted to share my experience.