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ordered tires, car was on lift to install replacements, tech came back and told me one of the fronts they received was faulty, need to have replacement replaced . . . put the old fronts back on til replacement arrives. About 17k on these if I did my math correctly . . . I suppose I shouldn't complain too much, not awful mileage, just funky wearing. Definitely looking into options based on recommends off here!
voiding the factory warranty makes me somewhat nervous and I'm not sure the local dealer would install those mods, I suppose a phone call would answer that question . . .
The cost to have A-Arms installed depends on what the going rates are where you're located. Basically it is what it would run to R&R the stock arms. However you also need to do a full (front and back) alignment after you lower and install the arms. F1 also sells hardware for the rear. I didn't go that route and I'm having zero issues so I'm not sure what that stuff will get you.
One thing to understand is lowering/swapping out the a-arms may break a part of your warranty. MB warranties everything based on the OEM equipment. Take it to a dealer and they likely will push it back to you as it now has non OEM parts. If you have a good relationship with the service department and they installed the arms you may be OK. Best case they'll cover everything, worst case all costs for suspension repairs is on you. Then again, how often does one have suspension problems?
Just so I understand, the way to fix the issue with the car not tracking straight (pulling hard to the left mostly at highway speeds) and uneven tire wear, we need to lower it, add A-arms and then align it? I was hoping that since my tires got swapped from the stock 20s to 19s winters when I bought the car that maybe that somehow threw the alignment off?
No. If it is pulling one way or another that is another issue. That is typically an alignment issue.
A-Arms is so it can be properly align when lowered.
Yes that is why all KMAC front kits include “Caster” adjustment as well to fully resolve steering pull and also allow to adjust, compensate for the new Camber settings.
Except for #503416-1G kit which is Camber only.
LABOR / INSTALLATION TIME REPRESENTS THE BIGGEST COST OUTLAY (complete upper A arms requiring removal of the airmatic Struts as well) along with warranty issues.
Therefore above #503416-1G besides being budget priced at $295 (both sides) - has advantage of fitment without need for arm removal and no special tools required. Replacing the lower arm inner bushings. Also unlike upper A arms when adjusting to resolve premature inner edge wear importantly retains clearance top of tire to outer fender.
Replacing these lower arm inner ‘2’ bushings (also the highest wearing) provides precise easily accessible single wrench adjustment - “accurately under load, direct on alignment rack” !!
NOTE: KMAC upper A arm inner bushes #503316-2J $380 (Camber and also Caster adjustable) there is no need for A arm removal - but still requires Strut removal.
While ultimate W213 AMG #503416K $480 includes above #503416-1G Camber kit along with the 2 forward facing “thrust arm bushes”. Which are designed to be precisely Caster adjustable and “Monoball / 2 Axis” - significantly improving “brake and steering” response.
A stock suspension doesn't need special parts. If it is pulling one way it is because something is broken or it is out of alignment.
Correct, but frustratingly OEM / Ex - factory unlike the 90’s there is now no longer “ALIGNMENT” available (other then basic Toe “directional” adjustment).
No front Camber and Caster, no rear Camber to cater for other then showroom height conditions.
Day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, wheel squat through load carrying or lowering, fitting wide profile tires and even the lack of “ongoing adjustment capability” for curb knock damage.
A stock suspension doesn't need special parts. If it is pulling one way it is because something is broken or it is out of alignment.
This is my problem with the dealership. At the same time they will tell me "if its doing that then something is wrong" and "we did the alignment perfectly so its fixed" (when its not) and then they won't try anything else
This is my problem with the dealership. At the same time they will tell me "if its doing that then something is wrong" and "we did the alignment perfectly so its fixed" (when its not) and then they won't try anything else
As above (#30, #32) since the 90's there is no longer any adjustment other then Toe "directional" adjustment !
For W213 models including AMG E43 / 53 / 63 there is not even offset bolts for front offering a minimal .3 of one degree change !
So "dealer won't try anything else" - he simply has nothing to adjust / try to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear !!
As already mentioned here before there is a simple solution to the inner tire wear. F1-Fab upper control arms for the front. You especially need these if you lower the car using the VLAD module etc.
I’ve had over 20k miles on my tires now, with the car lowered and the F1-Fab upper control arms installed. Zero problems and completely even tire wear 20k+ miles.
As already mentioned here before there is a simple solution to the inner tire wear. F1-Fab upper control arms for the front. You especially need these if you lower the car using the VLAD module etc.
I’ve had over 20k miles on my tires now, with the car lowered and the F1-Fab upper control arms installed. Zero problems and completely even tire wear 20k+ miles.
were the front upper control arms the only parts swapped to aftermarket? did you do any other camber bushings or anything?
As already mentioned here before there is a simple solution to the inner tire wear. F1-Fab upper control arms for the front. You especially need these if you lower the car using the VLAD module etc.
I’ve had over 20k miles on my tires now, with the car lowered and the F1-Fab upper control arms installed. Zero problems and completely even tire wear 20k+ miles.
Yes, but there is even a simpler solution !
Granted KMAC front upper A arms are dearer but you get what you pay for - Camber plus also Caster and being a “critical suspension component” - avoiding dealership warranty issues not welded, fabricated, but security of being manufactured (same as OEM) from Hi strength forged alloy.
Seeing installation / fitting time is the most expensive item as a alternative to above we THEREFORE manufacture:
FRONT LOWER ARM INNER ‘2’ BUSHINGS CAMBER ADJUSTABLE CHECKLIST RE ADVANTAGES:
•PRICED RIGHT AT $295 (Both Sides) Less cost then ‘1’ Hi performance tire.
•AGAIN “RETAINS SECURITY” OF THE OEM FORGED ALLOY ARMS
•FIT TIME - NO NEED FOR ARM REMOVAL !
•NO SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
•EASILY ACCESSIBLE PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTMENT
•ACCURATE ADJUSTMENT - UNDER LOAD DIRECT ON ALIGNMENT RACK
After reading this thread , I put a four foot level on both my wife’s GLC300 and my E53 . I was , am, thinking of doing spacers and wanted to measure and also wanted to see about tire wear and camber. . The level, on both cars, hit the bottom of the tire and the body flair with almost straight alignment but the top of the tire was easily 15 to 25 mm in. Is that aggressive camber for a car that is basically not hi performance?
I had my car undergo an alignment due to poor tyre wear. Was told the front can not be done properly as these cars do not have the parts from factory to carry out the alignment. Kinda felt like it was bs cos I never heard of this before.
He said I need to get a part that will allow him to make the adjustments needed. What is this part that’s needed?
seems like the camber is out on both front and rears, do the rears need a part too?
I had my car undergo an alignment due to poor tyre wear. Was told the front can not be done properly as these cars do not have the parts from factory to carry out the alignment. Kinda felt like it was bs cos I never heard of this before.
He said I need to get a part that will allow him to make the adjustments needed. What is this part that’s needed?
seems like the camber is out on both front and rears, do the rears need a part too?
Sadly, he is right. At least on the models I'm familiar with (W205 & W213), there is little to no camber adjustability on these cars. Crazy to me, but there you have it.
You would need a camber kit like @ygmn posted or aftermarket adjustable a-arms to adjust the camber.
It's definitely worth the investment over time, as you'll quickly spend more on replacing tires too often.
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Hopefully you have another dealer nearby that is a little more competent.
