Front brakes tools needed
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Front brakes tools needed
Anyone have a listing of what special tools I’ll need to change the front brakes on my 2018 e63s wagon? Torx socket sizes etc.
I’ve searched the forum as I’m sure it’s been asked before but couldn’t find any write ups on the process.
Getting rid of the super dusty stock pads and moving to EBC reds.
Any help appreciated!
I’ve searched the forum as I’m sure it’s been asked before but couldn’t find any write ups on the process.
Getting rid of the super dusty stock pads and moving to EBC reds.
Any help appreciated!
Last edited by Kjresener; 12-05-2023 at 06:30 AM.
#2
Member
Anyone have a listing of what special tools I’ll need to change the front brakes on my 2018 e63s wagon? Torx socket sizes etc.
I’ve searched the forum as I’m sure it’s been asked before but couldn’t find any write ups on the process.
Getting rid of the super dusty stock pads and moving to EBC reds.
Any help appreciated!
I’ve searched the forum as I’m sure it’s been asked before but couldn’t find any write ups on the process.
Getting rid of the super dusty stock pads and moving to EBC reds.
Any help appreciated!
I'm looking for the same plus instructions. Did you find anything? I've done this before on other cars and I'm guessing it's a pretty simple job. I guess it's pretty similar to this post: https://mbworld.org/forums/w213-amg/...placement.html
#3
Super Member
I don't remember needing any special tools for the front. Take wheel off, hammer out 2 pins with whatever small diameter straight metal poking device thing you have, remove bolt which has standard hex nut on the back, remove retaining bracket, remove brake pad wear sensor, take old pads out, squeeze calipers in, put everything back together.
The rear is a little different. There's a torx nut holding the brake fluid line that can be removed to make the job easier, and a thin wrench (I don't remember what size) may be needed to hold a bolt in place while undoing bolt with Allen wrench to get the calipers off, which I didn't have but just used vice grip locking plier instead since it's low torque. Basically same as instructions in that link.
The rear is a little different. There's a torx nut holding the brake fluid line that can be removed to make the job easier, and a thin wrench (I don't remember what size) may be needed to hold a bolt in place while undoing bolt with Allen wrench to get the calipers off, which I didn't have but just used vice grip locking plier instead since it's low torque. Basically same as instructions in that link.
Last edited by taphil; 03-02-2024 at 04:36 PM.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It was pretty simple, just be careful not to damage the caliper when you hammer the two pins out.
As “Taphil” says above the rears are a little different with a locking nut on the brake like, I did exactly as he did with some needle nose vise grips and it worked fine.
don’t forget to retract the rear pistons before doing rears. It’s in the computer screen menus in the car.
it ended up being much easier than I’d thought.
As “Taphil” says above the rears are a little different with a locking nut on the brake like, I did exactly as he did with some needle nose vise grips and it worked fine.
don’t forget to retract the rear pistons before doing rears. It’s in the computer screen menus in the car.
it ended up being much easier than I’d thought.
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Rover338 (03-03-2024)
#5
my advise... if you have ccb brakes and are located in United States.
Go to harbor freight and pick up the Pittsburgh wheel hanger stud pilot pins as you DO NOT want the wheel to touch the CCB rotors on the edge.
Even though the linked above post is for the CCB brakes (gold calipers) it should be fairly close for the red and silver calipers.
Go to harbor freight and pick up the Pittsburgh wheel hanger stud pilot pins as you DO NOT want the wheel to touch the CCB rotors on the edge.
Even though the linked above post is for the CCB brakes (gold calipers) it should be fairly close for the red and silver calipers.