Hey Guys,

I have the 2012 CLS63 AMG with sintered bronze matte paint. Got it in January, have been hand washing it since, and thus far have never had a problem removing anything that's gotten on it (matte paint, until this point, been very easy to care for actually, despite the general threads talking about how hard it is).

However, a small amount of tree sap fell on my car recently and I apparently didn't notice it for a week or so. I got most of it off today, but the little bit that is left is very hard to get off.

Any tips for how I can get this off my car? Obviously since it's matte paint I can't utilize some of the normal methods.

Thanks.

Edit: attached a pic if it helps

 

try using a clay bar first,
but otherwise i have no idea how to take care of the matte finishes

ask someone one meguiars site or detailersdomain
and let us know

 

I was under the impression a clay bar would really eff up the paint?

 

Claying a matte finish is completely out of the question. This is down to the abrasive nature of clay that would damage the matte finish.



The best way to remove contamination would be chemically, something like Poorboys bug sqash is a good place to start. This will remove tree sap, insects and bird droppings safely. It has a very powerful formula without being corrosive.


http://www.poorboysworld.com/bug-squash.htm

 

Hell with matte paint then

Clay bar is the best most satisfying thing to do to with real paint

 

+1

 

Use the clay bar. Read the instructions and is used only with a lubricant that comes with the kit.

I would try it on a concealed area first.

For the record, clay is not abraisve and does not work like polishing compounds.

Also try posting on the Detailer forum at:
https://mbworld.org/forums/detailing...otive-care-37/

 

I'd just use some chemical removal stuff - obviously test it somewhere inconspicuous first

 

theres that goo gone and goo something else that homeboy depot sells
i heard one is good and one is very strong, cant remember, i suppose u can try one of those

 

I've followed these direction before and it has worked just fine. I can not say if it will work the same on mat finish but it's worth a read. GL

To remove the tree sap from your vehicle's surface, you can use finger nail polish remover on a cotton ball. After the sap is removed, make a paste of water and baking soda to wash the affected area, then apply wax.

Another method to remove the sap is to use mineral sprits (it will also remove tar). Use a soft, terry towel, or wash cloth dampened with mineral sprits. After removal, wash the car and apply wax to the affected area.

Tree sap can also be removed by using a water-soluble paint brush cleaner. A common household solution is bacon grease or lard. Just rub it on, and off comes the sap. To get tree sap off of your hands, simply rub mayonnaise on them and wash it off. To remove tree sap and other substances, you can use common solvents like lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, WD-40 or even Skin-So-Soft bath oil.

The way to use those materials is to let them do their work of dissolving (in the case of alcohol) or softening (in the case of oils), enough to rub off the remaining sap. If you use the oil, wash the car afterwards to remove it.

You can also use commercial wax and grease-removing products available at auto supply stores. Be sure to wash and dry the car before applying the wax and grease remover. Then dampen a clean cloth with the solvent and rub the affected area. It may require several attempts if the sap is very thick or extremely hard. The surface may appear hazy after the solvent evaporates, but a good wax application will eliminate the haze and complete the job.

Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.

If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, you can try hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound to remove the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then you can use mineral spirits or a similar solvent to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the solvent can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.

Another technique is to use orange based solvents and children's molding clay. Apply a bit of the solvent and rub with the clay. It is abrasive enough to scrub off the sap which has been broken down by the solvent.

The chemicals used to remove road stains can also remove your wax or sealants. After removing tar, sap or bugs, plan to spot wax or re-wax your vehicle. If you don't have time to wax right away, use a quick detailing spray that contains wax. A quick spray wax is great for this kind of spot waxing, too.

Old tar, tree sap, and paint over-spray can be easily removed with a miraculous new product called automotive clay. As you rub it across any type of surface (paint, glass, plastic, metal, rubber, vinyl) it instantly sticks-to and pulls-off all contamination that is stuck to the surface. Here's how to use an automotive clay bar:

To use the automotive clay, spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay bars are fairly sticky, and they cannot be used dry.

After a few passes with the clay bar, rub your hand over the area to feel if the surface contamination was removed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft terry cloth towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.

Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint.

When you're finished claying your car, you should go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint and restore essential oils. Then, protect your newly cleaned finish with one or more coats of rich Carnauba wax.

 

Wow, lots of good cleaning info.

 

It appears you did not have the painted ceramic coated or sealed? That would have made getting it off that much easier.

 

I have designo mango black on my cls63. Everything on the market for matte paint is complete garbage. Only thing I use is Adams matte detailer or my quick detailer is Isopropyl alcohol mixed with water, best effective thing to use.

 

How about vinegar & distilled water?

 

can't vouch for that haven't tried it. u know what, even glass cleaner with no ammonia works. SPRAYWAY glass cleaner is awesome

 

I have used it for stubborn water spots, on Gloss paint that is. I am having second thought and may go back to Platinum Magno - is that hard to maintain it? How is it holding up?

 

You cannot use wax or abrasive anything on a matte finish but otherwise, most cleaners that are safe for paint should work.

 

If I get the Magno paint I plan to have mine ceramic coated with what I have on my Porsche, Opti-Coat Pro.

 

ceramic coating is a plus but find a local detailer or wrap shop and get your car wrapped in xpel stealth or similar. It is paint protection film that is a matte finish and is a life saver. Enthusiast Autoworks in NY did mine and its such a pleasure knowing you get no scratches or rock chips

 

I only plan to get PPF on the front, which is most prone to rock chips; however, the entire vehicle will be coated after the PPF is installed.

 

sounds good goodluck!!!!