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Lorinser LM5 wheel removal...

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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 09:46 PM
  #1  
joec1101's Avatar
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From: So Cal
'09 E93 335i
Lorinser LM5 wheel removal...

So I hit a pot hole - flattened part of the rim, still holds air but I want it fixed. Anyway, jacked up the vehicle, removed all five lug bolts but the wheel won't come off (?) Am I missing something? Shouldn't the wheel just fall right off when there are no lug bolts holding it on? It just will *not* come off.

These are Lorinser LM5's - maybe the spacers are stuck/holding the wheel on?

Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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rogerv's Avatar
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From: Tokyo Japan, with occasional visits to Silicon Valley
S65, SRT-10 Viper, FFR Shelby Cobra
I'm having the exact same problem with my S65.
I am trying to remove the rear wheels, all the lug nuts are out but I cant break the wheel loose at all. Could this have anything to do with Tire preasure sensors in the wheels? If any one has any ideas please let me know!
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 01:20 PM
  #3  
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From: SouthBend, IN USA
depends on the weather
both of you probably have some corrosion built up in the hub area because aluminum will act as the anode in a galvanic cell with steel. Oxygen plays a role in the corrosion in acting as a cathodic depolarizer.

What is likely occurring with the aluminum/steel couple, is this: when steel corrodes, hydroxyl ions will concentrate at the cathodic site of the corroding area, unless swept away by liquid movement or further converted to iron oxide (rust). As aluminum is amphoteric, and possesses limited resistance to alkaline environments, the corroding is due to a localized alkaline environment resulting from the corrosion process.

in easier terms .... put the lugs on loosely and use a rubber mallet on the tire to remove the effected wheels and put some anti-sieze on the hubs (be careful not to get it on the lug bolts or the threaded holes for them.

taadaa
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 01:36 AM
  #4  
wheelman322's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Luke@tirerack
both of you probably have some corrosion built up in the hub area because aluminum will act as the anode in a galvanic cell with steel. Oxygen plays a role in the corrosion in acting as a cathodic depolarizer.

What is likely occurring with the aluminum/steel couple, is this: when steel corrodes, hydroxyl ions will concentrate at the cathodic site of the corroding area, unless swept away by liquid movement or further converted to iron oxide (rust). As aluminum is amphoteric, and possesses limited resistance to alkaline environments, the corroding is due to a localized alkaline environment resulting from the corrosion process.

in easier terms .... put the lugs on loosely and use a rubber mallet on the tire to remove the effected wheels and put some anti-sieze on the hubs (be careful not to get it on the lug bolts or the threaded holes for them.

taadaa
Yup...I had that problem with my stock wheels. I felt like an A-hole having to call roadside assistance to change a tire. The roadside tech had to pry the wheel off the car and said it is a common problem.
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