Q for splinter
02-22-2009, 08:21 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NE. TN
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06 C350 sport 6MT
Q for splinter
Hello Mike.
thanx for the help, it sounds like i need to work on the rear, ill add h/r rear bar, any suggs on where to buy, and which of the 3 attchment holes to use?? also, since rear weights are Left 825 , Right 764 with driver after corner balance, sholuld i use not symmetric holes, ie, middle on L and end hole on R ???
i can easily change the front camber by add/remove washers, -2 degrees ok for now?
i havnt monkeyed with the rear camber or toe but it sounds like the rear needs to do more work, any suggs for ??? this is my daily driver , no track duty but spirited driving on wonderful curvy smooth hiily/ mountainv roads and frequent cloverleaf bonzai runs ,not much freeway use, my wife has sloooowly come to realize that the tire rack truck will vist twice a year,
my rears are not flush with the fender, would pushing them 10mm out w spacers help handling or should i save the $ for more tires!?
lastly tire, i know that opinions vary widely , my experience has been that extreme perf tires falken615, dunlop star spec turn in faster and allow me to crank the wheel w higher transient gs than the max perf variety, ie so3 pp , kdw2, gy d3, ,,,also the price is 1/4 less, ,, but i have not tried the latest 050 pole pos, which has gotten hi reviews,
thanks again for sharing your expertice w me,
btw, used to live in seal bch and married a valley girl, have fond memories of bonzai runs in a 89 vette up and down angeles crest hwy-grin
thanx for the help, it sounds like i need to work on the rear, ill add h/r rear bar, any suggs on where to buy, and which of the 3 attchment holes to use?? also, since rear weights are Left 825 , Right 764 with driver after corner balance, sholuld i use not symmetric holes, ie, middle on L and end hole on R ???
i can easily change the front camber by add/remove washers, -2 degrees ok for now?
i havnt monkeyed with the rear camber or toe but it sounds like the rear needs to do more work, any suggs for ??? this is my daily driver , no track duty but spirited driving on wonderful curvy smooth hiily/ mountainv roads and frequent cloverleaf bonzai runs ,not much freeway use, my wife has sloooowly come to realize that the tire rack truck will vist twice a year,
my rears are not flush with the fender, would pushing them 10mm out w spacers help handling or should i save the $ for more tires!?
lastly tire, i know that opinions vary widely , my experience has been that extreme perf tires falken615, dunlop star spec turn in faster and allow me to crank the wheel w higher transient gs than the max perf variety, ie so3 pp , kdw2, gy d3, ,,,also the price is 1/4 less, ,, but i have not tried the latest 050 pole pos, which has gotten hi reviews,
thanks again for sharing your expertice w me,
btw, used to live in seal bch and married a valley girl, have fond memories of bonzai runs in a 89 vette up and down angeles crest hwy-grin
02-24-2009, 02:04 AM
#2
Super Moderator
Purchased my H&R anti-roll bars from Tire Rack. Mentioned source code “Luke” when ordering. H&R’s W203 bars have but two adjustment configurations from which to choose. Adjust as required to best suit your specific requirements and preferred balance.
Increasing track width in the front will likely improve grip and reduce understeer, at the expense of undermining MB’s carefully conceived and engineered scrub radius and steering axis inclination. Reduced directional stability is the inevitable result. Less so in the rear, save for decreased wheel bearing life.
Proper corner balancing is best achieved by adjusting your KW’s while laden with its customary load. Do not, if at all possible, preload the anti-roll bar links to record even side-to-side figures. Building wedge into the chassis will manifest itself in odd LH to RH cornering machinations. Camber, caster, and inflation adjustments can be deemed optimized when adhesion is maximized and pyrometer readings across the face of the tires’ tread is relatively even during your preferred dynamic circumstances. Reduced tire life and irregular wear patterns during daily driving is an inevitable compromise for such settings. Topical performance tire selection is beyond my area of expertise. However, mine is fitted with Michelin’s Pilot Sports.
Our C is an odd duck to tweak for improved cornering traction, in that there are so many shortcomings which must be addressed to make it perform anywhere near a contemporary level of competence.
Increasing track width in the front will likely improve grip and reduce understeer, at the expense of undermining MB’s carefully conceived and engineered scrub radius and steering axis inclination. Reduced directional stability is the inevitable result. Less so in the rear, save for decreased wheel bearing life.
Proper corner balancing is best achieved by adjusting your KW’s while laden with its customary load. Do not, if at all possible, preload the anti-roll bar links to record even side-to-side figures. Building wedge into the chassis will manifest itself in odd LH to RH cornering machinations. Camber, caster, and inflation adjustments can be deemed optimized when adhesion is maximized and pyrometer readings across the face of the tires’ tread is relatively even during your preferred dynamic circumstances. Reduced tire life and irregular wear patterns during daily driving is an inevitable compromise for such settings. Topical performance tire selection is beyond my area of expertise. However, mine is fitted with Michelin’s Pilot Sports.
Our C is an odd duck to tweak for improved cornering traction, in that there are so many shortcomings which must be addressed to make it perform anywhere near a contemporary level of competence.
