squeaking passenger side suspension
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2000 Mecedes Benz S430
squeaking passenger side suspension
Hi guys, for the past couple weeks there is creaking noise coming from the front wheel passenger side when i gently brake, when the car goes over bumps at slow speed or even recently when passenger gets in and out of the car! when parked up i pushed down that front end and i could hear the squeak every time i pushed the guard down and up. there is no extra noise when i steer or Airmatic raises and lowers the car with no problem.any hint of what might be the problem would be really appreciated.cheers
#2
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Ball Joints
#4
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What you could do is take WD-40 Spray and stab it into the balljoints with the straw and spray it, that's a temporary solution.
#5
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I personally wouldn't replace anything until I found the source of the noise. If you are so inclined, put the front end (tires) on car ramps and with you underneath, have someone push up and down on the front suspension duplicating what generates the creak. Your eyes and ears will locate the problem. It could be something quite simple. Just my 2 cents.
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2001 s 430 84Kmiles black on black
2001 S430 84000 miles. Similar issue - creaking noise when turning steering wheel and go over bumps and etc. Took mine to mechanic - the lower THRUST control arm (right) has gone bad . Im going to replace both sides. Ordered both thrust arms for $150 shipped. Was given an estimate $100 for labor in Philadelphia to replace both sides. Cant wait to take it for replacement cuz it drives me insane - driving a benz which sounds like 19th Century Carriage LOL )
Last edited by mobilusa; 02-15-2011 at 10:46 AM.
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Mercedes S55 AMG
It's definitely going to be in that region that the others mentioned, and it's most likely the ball joints. I also had this problem and changed the ball joints along with the bushings of the control arms, and that solved it and 50k miles later it's still good.
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#8
2001 S430 84000 miles. Similar issue - creaking noise when turning steering wheel and go over bumps and etc. Took mine to mechanic - the lower THRUST control arm (right) has gone bad . Im going to replace both sides. Ordered both thrust arms for $150 shipped. Was given an estimate $100 for labor in Philadelphia to replace both sides. Cant wait to take it for replacement cuz it drives me insane - driving a benz which sounds like 19th Century Carriage LOL )
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2001 s 430 84Kmiles black on black
*** UPDATE *** EASY FIX FOR BALL JOINT SQUEAKING NOISE
The story is:
Previously inspected, we found that Thrust arms were failing and were squeaking. Just got the parts today. Very Fast shipping and German made thrust arms. Right away went straight to my mechanic's shop - i just can't drive the car with that ridiculously loud creaky noise, drives my NUTZZZ! Replaced the trust arms, both sides. 30-40 minutes job.
While at the shop, we have discovered leak from windshield washer fluid reservoir (actually the leaking part was the right headlight washer's nozzle, that had some plastic parts missing and was leaking. Easy fixed by detaching the hose on the reservoir, that goes to headlights nozzles and replacing with a rubber cap - i dont use headlights washers anyway). See image below.
Back to my lower control arms. When i left the shop i did not hear and noise for a few minutes but then it just came back as it was.
I came back to the shop and we started to do more detailed inspection of the suspension. It turned out to be a right lower control arm ball joint. I already started calculate numbers in my head for more parts, labor, alignment etc. But the mechanics offered me to do a "old school" trick. 20 minutes after i was driving away without any squeaking noises. This is what they have done:
they drilled an aprox 3-5mm hole on the bottom part of the ball joint (the drill bit has to go through metal and then some plastic). Then made a tread in that drilled hole and twisted a metal piece in it (looks like a little ball with a little tube with a tread). Then they attached a hose with lubricating paste and using high pressure machine "squeezed" lube into that little tiny hole so that would fill the inner part of the ball joint and lubricate it. THAT WAS IT.
The squeaking noise disappeared. The only thing i dont know how long will it last. I reset my trip odometer and want to see how long can i drive. Eventually, i might have to change it, but lets see how long will it last.
The labor cost for everything, including windshield washer leak fix, thrust arms replacement, ball joint fix, parking light bulb replacement and taking the nail out of one the tires was $160 total. You gotta have the right shop and people!
Next things due are oil change(mobil 1 0w-40 fulls synthetic) & air filters and cabin filters replacements - i will do this on my own and will try to post Photo DIY for both.
p.s. sorry for the wrong explanation of some parts and technical details but English is not my native language
The story is:
Previously inspected, we found that Thrust arms were failing and were squeaking. Just got the parts today. Very Fast shipping and German made thrust arms. Right away went straight to my mechanic's shop - i just can't drive the car with that ridiculously loud creaky noise, drives my NUTZZZ! Replaced the trust arms, both sides. 30-40 minutes job.
While at the shop, we have discovered leak from windshield washer fluid reservoir (actually the leaking part was the right headlight washer's nozzle, that had some plastic parts missing and was leaking. Easy fixed by detaching the hose on the reservoir, that goes to headlights nozzles and replacing with a rubber cap - i dont use headlights washers anyway). See image below.
Back to my lower control arms. When i left the shop i did not hear and noise for a few minutes but then it just came back as it was.
I came back to the shop and we started to do more detailed inspection of the suspension. It turned out to be a right lower control arm ball joint. I already started calculate numbers in my head for more parts, labor, alignment etc. But the mechanics offered me to do a "old school" trick. 20 minutes after i was driving away without any squeaking noises. This is what they have done:
they drilled an aprox 3-5mm hole on the bottom part of the ball joint (the drill bit has to go through metal and then some plastic). Then made a tread in that drilled hole and twisted a metal piece in it (looks like a little ball with a little tube with a tread). Then they attached a hose with lubricating paste and using high pressure machine "squeezed" lube into that little tiny hole so that would fill the inner part of the ball joint and lubricate it. THAT WAS IT.
The squeaking noise disappeared. The only thing i dont know how long will it last. I reset my trip odometer and want to see how long can i drive. Eventually, i might have to change it, but lets see how long will it last.
The labor cost for everything, including windshield washer leak fix, thrust arms replacement, ball joint fix, parking light bulb replacement and taking the nail out of one the tires was $160 total. You gotta have the right shop and people!
Next things due are oil change(mobil 1 0w-40 fulls synthetic) & air filters and cabin filters replacements - i will do this on my own and will try to post Photo DIY for both.
p.s. sorry for the wrong explanation of some parts and technical details but English is not my native language
Last edited by mobilusa; 02-15-2011 at 11:19 PM.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
*** UPDATE *** EASY FIX FOR BALL JOINT SQUEAKING NOISE
The story is:
Previously inspected, we found that Thrust arms were failing and were squeaking. Just got the parts today. Very Fast shipping and German made thrust arms. Right away went straight to my mechanic's shop - i just can't drive the car with that ridiculously loud creaky noise, drives my NUTZZZ! Replaced the trust arms, both sides. 30-40 minutes job.
While at the shop, we have discovered leak from windshield washer fluid reservoir (actually the leaking part was the right headlight washer's nozzle, that had some plastic parts missing and was leaking. Easy fixed by detaching the hose on the reservoir, that goes to headlights nozzles and replacing with a rubber cap - i dont use headlights washers anyway). See image below.
Back to my lower control arms. When i left the shop i did not hear and noise for a few minutes but then it just came back as it was.
I came back to the shop and we started to do more detailed inspection of the suspension. It turned out to be a right lower control arm ball joint. I already started calculate numbers in my head for more parts, labor, alignment etc. But the mechanics offered me to do a "old school" trick. 20 minutes after i was driving away without any squeaking noises. This is what they have done:
they drilled an aprox 3-5mm hole on the bottom part of the ball joint (the drill bit has to go through metal and then some plastic). Then made a tread in that drilled hole and twisted a metal piece in it (looks like a little ball with a little tube with a tread). Then they attached a hose with lubricating paste and using high pressure machine "squeezed" lube into that little tiny hole so that would fill the inner part of the ball joint and lubricate it. THAT WAS IT.
The squeaking noise disappeared. The only thing i dont know how long will it last. I reset my trip odometer and want to see how long can i drive. Eventually, i might have to change it, but lets see how long will it last.
The labor cost for everything, including windshield washer leak fix, thrust arms replacement, ball joint fix, parking light bulb replacement and taking the nail out of one the tires was $160 total. You gotta have the right shop and people!
Next things due are oil change(mobil 1 0w-40 fulls synthetic) & air filters and cabin filters replacements - i will do this on my own and will try to post Photo DIY for both.
p.s. sorry for the wrong explanation of some parts and technical details but English is not my native language
The story is:
Previously inspected, we found that Thrust arms were failing and were squeaking. Just got the parts today. Very Fast shipping and German made thrust arms. Right away went straight to my mechanic's shop - i just can't drive the car with that ridiculously loud creaky noise, drives my NUTZZZ! Replaced the trust arms, both sides. 30-40 minutes job.
While at the shop, we have discovered leak from windshield washer fluid reservoir (actually the leaking part was the right headlight washer's nozzle, that had some plastic parts missing and was leaking. Easy fixed by detaching the hose on the reservoir, that goes to headlights nozzles and replacing with a rubber cap - i dont use headlights washers anyway). See image below.
Back to my lower control arms. When i left the shop i did not hear and noise for a few minutes but then it just came back as it was.
I came back to the shop and we started to do more detailed inspection of the suspension. It turned out to be a right lower control arm ball joint. I already started calculate numbers in my head for more parts, labor, alignment etc. But the mechanics offered me to do a "old school" trick. 20 minutes after i was driving away without any squeaking noises. This is what they have done:
they drilled an aprox 3-5mm hole on the bottom part of the ball joint (the drill bit has to go through metal and then some plastic). Then made a tread in that drilled hole and twisted a metal piece in it (looks like a little ball with a little tube with a tread). Then they attached a hose with lubricating paste and using high pressure machine "squeezed" lube into that little tiny hole so that would fill the inner part of the ball joint and lubricate it. THAT WAS IT.
The squeaking noise disappeared. The only thing i dont know how long will it last. I reset my trip odometer and want to see how long can i drive. Eventually, i might have to change it, but lets see how long will it last.
The labor cost for everything, including windshield washer leak fix, thrust arms replacement, ball joint fix, parking light bulb replacement and taking the nail out of one the tires was $160 total. You gotta have the right shop and people!
Next things due are oil change(mobil 1 0w-40 fulls synthetic) & air filters and cabin filters replacements - i will do this on my own and will try to post Photo DIY for both.
p.s. sorry for the wrong explanation of some parts and technical details but English is not my native language
#12
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2001 s 430 84Kmiles black on black
#13
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Mercedes S55 AMG
That's funny, I had the exact same thing happen to my S55 - the headlight washer nozzles were out, and thus I was getting a leak and washer fluid would not stay in. Replaced the Nozzles and problem finished. Likewise I had the creaking sound - which was remedied by replacing the ball joints and control arm bushings.
Now, I'd recommend that you get new ball joints anyway in the future - who knows how long that will last. The parts themselves aren't much, but it is labor intensive to open it all back up.
Let us hear how it works out over time!
Now, I'd recommend that you get new ball joints anyway in the future - who knows how long that will last. The parts themselves aren't much, but it is labor intensive to open it all back up.
Let us hear how it works out over time!
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2000 Mecedes Benz S430
thank you guys for the info.i had the chance to jack up the car and look behind the wheel (picture attached) i noticed a cut on the rubber section of the lower ball joint.does this mean that the source of the squeak is definitely the ball joint now? i've ordered an accelerator pedal module from RMEuropean.com and i'll get them to send me the ball joint at the same time.
by the way is it possible the squeak is somehow Airmatic related? or they don't squeak they just fail at once?! i discovered a few very small hairline cracks on the top of the strut i think repairing the top seal is going to be my next project but could this cause the creaking noise and not the ball joint?
by the way is it possible the squeak is somehow Airmatic related? or they don't squeak they just fail at once?! i discovered a few very small hairline cracks on the top of the strut i think repairing the top seal is going to be my next project but could this cause the creaking noise and not the ball joint?
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2001 s 430 84Kmiles black on black
thank you guys for the info.i had the chance to jack up the car and look behind the wheel (picture attached) i noticed a cut on the rubber section of the lower ball joint.does this mean that the source of the squeak is definitely the ball joint now? i've ordered an accelerator pedal module from RMEuropean.com and i'll get them to send me the ball joint at the same time.
by the way is it possible the squeak is somehow Airmatic related? or they don't squeak they just fail at once?! i discovered a few very small hairline cracks on the top of the strut i think repairing the top seal is going to be my next project but could this cause the creaking noise and not the ball joint?
by the way is it possible the squeak is somehow Airmatic related? or they don't squeak they just fail at once?! i discovered a few very small hairline cracks on the top of the strut i think repairing the top seal is going to be my next project but could this cause the creaking noise and not the ball joint?
The creaking noise is definitely one of the ball joints in your suspension system. The airmatic struts won't make any noise except hissing (if there is a leak). Put some soapy water on top of the struts (where your hairline cracks are as you said) and push "raise vehicle" button. If you have bubbles going on - you do need to "repair" (seal) your struts before the airpump will fail due to excessive working time and your car will be slammed to the ground
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2001 s 430 84Kmiles black on black
BUMP!!!
Update. See my post above about quick-fix of ball joint. After driving for 2300 miles turns out that this creaking noise came back. Just noticed it today. Im going tommorow to the shop to get it stuffed with lube again but really thinking about replacing it. Ball joint itself is not expensive, im just curious how much that would cost to replace.
cheers!
Update. See my post above about quick-fix of ball joint. After driving for 2300 miles turns out that this creaking noise came back. Just noticed it today. Im going tommorow to the shop to get it stuffed with lube again but really thinking about replacing it. Ball joint itself is not expensive, im just curious how much that would cost to replace.
cheers!
#18
BUMP!!!
Update. See my post above about quick-fix of ball joint. After driving for 2300 miles turns out that this creaking noise came back. Just noticed it today. Im going tommorow to the shop to get it stuffed with lube again but really thinking about replacing it. Ball joint itself is not expensive, im just curious how much that would cost to replace.
cheers!
Update. See my post above about quick-fix of ball joint. After driving for 2300 miles turns out that this creaking noise came back. Just noticed it today. Im going tommorow to the shop to get it stuffed with lube again but really thinking about replacing it. Ball joint itself is not expensive, im just curious how much that would cost to replace.
cheers!
I still have my squeak, I just live with it.
Also let us know how much the replacement costs, parts and labor...thanks!
#19
I have the same issue. Certainly the lower ball joints. I read some time ago that the rubber cover cracks and the lube is eventually exposed to the weather. Mine are pretty noisy and I purchased two Ball joints. Cost to install is about $750 Dollars. I had a quotation from two different Non MB Shops. I think I bought the lower ball joints from Autohauz in Arizona.
I would be interested what your quote for the repair is.
Dean
I would be interested what your quote for the repair is.
Dean
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2000 Mecedes Benz S430
PROBLEM SOLVED:)
the creaking noise was the 'Lower Ball Joint' as expected. the annoying noise is fully gone now and the steering wheel is firm now i bought the part from RMEUROPEAN.COM and had it replaced locally. it cost about $NZ350 for labor. i don't know if it's reasonable fee or not but it would've cost me almost the same to buy the ball joint remover/installer and the separator from eBay and had them shipped to New Zealand.
thanks again guys for all the information. i'm getting a lot of experience and knowledge from this forum and i am loving it. maybe next time i can do a repair job on my car by myself
thanks again guys for all the information. i'm getting a lot of experience and knowledge from this forum and i am loving it. maybe next time i can do a repair job on my car by myself
#21
does anyone know what tool i need i need to press the ball joint back in, because the one from autozone wont work. the press wont fit inside the space of the steering knuckle to allow you to align the press straigt up and down.
Thanks
Johann
Thanks
Johann
#22
Junior Member
Does someone know the tool that we need to remove and install the Ball joints ? The tool is the same one to remove&install or are different tools to do the job ? It will be appreciated if someone know the part number.
Thanks
Thanks
#23
Hello, not sure if im in the correct thread, but I have a 2004 S430 4-Matic. The car drive pretty smooth but when I go over bumps, like on the expressway or driving over sewers or pronounced cracks in the streets, it feels like the front in rattles and the driver side wheel make a clunking noise (only over bumps) and also its starting to feel like a grinding feeling in the front driver side wheel. The alignment is definitely off. Reading these threads, it sounds like either a control arm, ball joint, or sway bar end link. I'm not a mechanical person so please keep things in lamest terms for me. Its at the dealership now and they are saying that the lower front control arms joints have "a little play" and costs like $2100 to fix parts and labor. They are saying "little play" but its like what does that mean, are they bad or not? I just want to be sure that they are pinpointing the "correct" cause of the noise so I will not waist $$ and have to take it back. Lower Ball joints were replaced a few months ago. Im in the Chicago area if there any GOOD independent mechanics i can work with, who understands and fixes MB suspension system
#25
I'm having the same issue - where did you get your parts?
2001 S430 84000 miles. Similar issue - creaking noise when turning steering wheel and go over bumps and etc. Took mine to mechanic - the lower THRUST control arm (right) has gone bad . Im going to replace both sides. Ordered both thrust arms for $150 shipped. Was given an estimate $100 for labor in Philadelphia to replace both sides. Cant wait to take it for replacement cuz it drives me insane - driving a benz which sounds like 19th Century Carriage
LOL )
LOL )