leeroytandy

Thanks Glynn for the post. very Helpful

I have noises and on top of that, the car tends to sway from side to side depending on which side the road is leaning to.
one of the noises stops when i apply brakes. I take it that has something to do with the Brake sleeve bushes.

The plan was to replace the control arms , but from this post, it looks like it might be the strut bearings. is this correct or could it be something else?

is there a way of checking the shocks myself. Ive done what i would normally do on other (older cars) but i the seem fine to me .

Masterchief0624

this is awesome , thank you.

I'm having a clunk nosie coming from the driver side fron wheel(i think). It's only when i driver between 15-25 MPH, anything slower or faster it doenst make that noise. Usually only happens when I go into a parking lot. Any ideas?

Thank you.

jkowtko

This sounds like steering rack bushings to me. drive the car up on ramps, and have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth (not locked) while you look closely at the rack under the car with a flashlight. If you see the rack move at all in the mounts, then you should probably replace the bushings.

There could also be play in the tie rods ...


I find it hard on the sport suspension to do the bounce test because the springs are so stiff and have a lot of damping in them already. I had to pay attention while driving through dips in the road at moderate to freeway speeds.

jkowtko

sway bar end link? Try driving over small but sharp changes in road height where only one wheel changes height, so it creates a twist on the sway bar. Like when you enter a driveway and the ramp has a small lip on it above the road height. That's when you should hear the clunk of a worn sway bar link.

Masterchief0624

Thanks for the quick reply

I think I picked the wrong sound effect, lol. it's more of a wobbling noise i guess. It sounds like something is loose. Only on driver side and at low speeds. Hopefully by next I can take the car to the dealership but any idea what it could be?

jkowtko

There is a brake anti-rattle clip that could be missing, bent, or not installed properly. if the noise stops whenever you brake firmly, then that's a good indication.

Masterchief0624

The noise does go away when I brake. only starts when im driving from low to high speed or slowing down from high speed to low speed. (usually between 20-30 mph).

anything else it could be?

Thank you for helping out. Taking my car on Wed to the dealership and I want to avoid being surprised.

bellie

has anybody ever replaced all 4 of the rear suspension arms on the w203 as im going to be doing this tomorrow ive had a look but i cant see how the front top one will come off (as the bolt must have been fitted before the subframe was bolted in place ) their isnt enough room for the bolt to come out as it will hit the body ......ive changed the springs , shocks an now the link arms as i have got a lot of floating, swaying , snaking while im driving....it all started after i had a blow out on drivers side which i had to drive on for about 4 miles to a safe place to stop
many thanks guys

sta200k

Hey guys,

2003 C200K here.
Got a huge 'clunk' sound when I hit the brakes all of a sudden (like when someone cuts in front of you and you hit the brakes) -- very noticeable at 5-10kmph. It is as if something metal is hitting something else metal.
(sorry for the strange explanation; I hope it is clear)

It all started a few months ago, when I started noticing this 'tremor' at about 140kmph. Had all wheels properly balanced, even switched them with a different set (got an extra winter set), but tremor is still there.

Took the car to a shop, the mechanic replaced items 90 and 140 in the diagram below, and that is when I started noticing the clunking noise as well.

I am attaching this slo-mo video that I just took (put the phone under the car, started filming, and tried to reproduce the problem -- I know, I'm that desperate). I believe the part in focus is #140 from the diagram. Is it normal for this arm to move that much when braking?

As for the tremor, no idea what might be causing it. It definitely got better after replacing these parts, but it is still there.

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

jkowtko

So my first question -- how did you take that video? Where did you put the phone and how did you move it around?

Regarding the clunk, it sounds like it could be the control arms, but if you just had them replaced and had good quality arms put in (Lemfoerder or MB brand) you should be fine.

Did the auto shop tighten the bushing bolts AFTER the car suspension was set at rest height and not hanging? If not, then your bushings are twisted and will tear prematurely.

When braking consistently is it only a single knock, or a bunch of knocks. Multi knock is what it sounded like for me before I replaced my control arms.

Check sway bar links. Do you hear the clunk when going over small bumps with one wheel at low speeds, such as turning into a driveway or going over a speed bump at an angle.

Check the sway bar bushings. This you will just have to do by inspection for the time begin. See if the rubber looks worn at all, and shake them up and down at the bushing, or use a pry bar to gently press up/down to see if there is movement.

Steering rack bushings ... does the steering have any slop in it? When driving on a road crowned to the left vs right ... any excessive drift with the slope of the road? Get under the car and try moving the rack around a bit ... it shouldn't budge more than a fraction of a mm.

Park the car, open the hood, and bound the front suspension up and down and look at the top of the strut mounts. The top brackets should not be touching the car body, and should move ever so slightly (1mm?) as you bound the car up and down. There should be no excess movement.

slammer111

Sounds like a failed ball joint. There are actually 3 ball joints for each front wheel - upper control arm (90), lower control arm (140), and the outer tie rod (it's shown in the steering system diagram, not the one you posted). Not sure if your mechanic replaced 2 or 4 (did he or she do both front wheels?) of the arms, but I would look into the other joints that weren't replaced.

Finding a failed joint is quite easy to DIY. Just jack the car up, and take a long metal rod (a large screwdriver works) and jiggle/pry each ball joint. Any joint with play is bad and needs to be replaced. Remember to change parts out in pairs, as the other side is probably going to go soon if you find a clunk.

saro

Hi Guys. Im having an issue with a noise coming from the front drivers side on my c230 w203, when i pull in and out of the driveway and have my steering turned. I've replaced front shocks, shock mountings, lower control arm bushes, stabalizer links (i think its also called sway bar links) and tie rod ends. After replacing all of that, i still have the same problem. Could it be the stabalizer bar rubbers or bushes (Sway bar rubbers or bushes)? Please Help

jkowtko

I take it you are hearing a clunk, vs rattle or creak.

* If clunk
- it sounds like you did not replace the entire control arms ... worn ball joint?
- sway bar bushings very worn
- inner or outer tie rod end ball joint
- steering rack bushings

* If creak
- top strut mount moving in body cavity ... needs greasing
- sway bar bushings losing their springiness

Either way, your car is old enough that it will probably help if you replace anything that hasn't been replaced yet. I've done all of the above except for the inner/outer tie rod ends, and I've still got a clunk when backing out of my driveway -- so I still have a bit of work to do.

-- John

saro

Thanks John

Its more of a creak,when pulling in and out,and also slightly when going over a bump.

I will try replacing the sway bar bushings and let you know.

Excuse my not knowing,but the sway bar bushings is located on the ends of the sway bar or in the centre? My mechanic removed what he called 'rubbers' from the centre of the sway bar,and says that could be the issue?

Thanks so much for the assistance,highly appreciated.

jkowtko

They're in the center, maybe 18-24" apart?

Depending on which sway bar you have, the bushings could be molded onto the bar. Mine had the molded on bushings so I had to replace the entire sway bar. The MB price was surprinsgly cheap for the entire bar ($80 vs ~$20 for two bushings) and no more creaking for me

Norsk_Johnson

jkowtko,

I'm gathering parts to take care of both the Bushings and End-Links. When it got colder outside, they started creaking like an old bed. Sprayed both Bushings and Links = Silenced. My question to you is, you state yours were molded to the bar. Well, it looks like we have the same ride (05' C230K SS/Sport Suspension) and judging by my photos, does this look like yours? Molded? Additionally, when doing both bushings and links, what did you start with first?

Passenger Side Bushing:




Driver Side Bushing:

jkowtko

Those do look like separate bushings. But check the diameter of the bar -- you may not be able to buy separate bushings anymore. I may have had my sway bar replaced early on under warranty (I might have complained about creaking, I don't quite remember) and if so, then they would have swapped in the molded bar at that time.

As for which to replace first ... I think either one would work fine ... just replace both bushings and/or both sway bar links at the same time.

Norsk_Johnson

These are the one's I bought. 21mm Meyle 203-323-21-85 https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B...1.8L/ES253032/

Let me know your thoughts. Thanks again!

Ps - My Bushings sure look shot, don't they?

jkowtko

I thought we had 22mm bars, in which case the bushings you bought could end up squeaking. If you are changing these yourself then there is little risk other than scrapping the new bushings .. However keep the old ones so you can put them back on if needed.

Norsk_Johnson

It appears you're right, they are 22mm. Weird.

Even the Genuine MB Bushings state they're 21mm, when the Genuine MB Torsion Bar is 22mm..

Bushings: https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B....8L/ES1727683/

Torsion Bar (Code 486): https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B....8L/ES1727693/


Maybe for a tighter fit? Idk. This stuff is taxing... Good god.

jkowtko

I went through this ordeal of confusion and discovery when I replaced my sway bar. For whatever reason the sport suspension had the 22mm and that size alone had enough of an issue that MB just replaced it with a bar with molded on bushings. I don't have the full scoop on this ... but I do have the bar with the molded on bushings.

Also note whether your bushings have the "innie" or "outie" rib on them. The molded bar appears to have the innies, yet bushings for the other models have the outies. And it looks like the Meyle bushings you just bought are outies as well. I will venture to guess that the bushings on your car are innies, which will match the molded bar. But if for some reason you are switching between the two, then you will need to get new bushing brackets as well.

Are you having fun yet? !!

kavekreeker

Thanks for the sticky. My left FLCA bushing is leaking. This thread informed me I need to replace the bushing or control arm (with pressed bushing).

kavekreeker

Forgot to add the leaking substance etched my garage floor epoxy coating. WD40 only picked up the residual. I had to use some Comet but some etching remains. Nasty stuff....

Norsk_Johnson

Well, just to keep you updated and help anyone else with this conundrum. You were correct. The W203 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan DOES have a 22mm sway bar WITH the bushings molded to the bar. So, consequently, I had to buy the bar at the stealer (along w/ trans mount). They asked for $181+tax at first, then I talked them down to $129. All of these reputable auto part websites don't elaborate on this. You can buy the sport suspension bushings (Code: 486), but unfortunately they will not fit the bars' 22mm circumference, or fit the stock brackets.

Takeaways...

1. If you have this model car, save yourself the time and buy a whole new bar with bushings molded. It's the 22mm AMG bar. No way around it, if you want to do it right. Sway Bar Part# 203-323-44-65. The rear sway bar is a different story, bushings can be replace separately.

2. If the price seems high at the dealer (which it always is) try to haggle with them, it never hurts.

3. Replacing end-links and sway bar WILL help eliminate creaks, squeaks, and minor clunks for the most part. I'm pleased with the results as it has brought new life to the suspension.

bjcurlyjr

Is there a diagram of how the rear sway bar bolts from the bracket to the cars body on drivers side rear? Mine is a 2004 C320 wagon. Initially appears the bolt securing it to the body upwards, is missing or broken or rusted away. Not clear if there is a nut to go over the top or what yet. I was trying to research it on this forum. I will have to crawl under and stick a tool inside body to know for sure.