Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Engine Guides
- Mercedes-Mercedes-Benz C-Class: How to Change Your Oil
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Engine Guides
C250 Oil Change?
#26
MBWorld Fanatic!
MDMG - No Royal Purple crap or similar. Only 229.5 approved oils but I know you will do that. Mobil 1 Euro formulation 0W-40 is excellent but so are other approved products. Benz has extreme HTHS requirements for cam & tappet protection. Not using 229.5 approved products invalidates warranty.
The filter is removable element & not spin on cartridge. We might have a terminology issue here.
One problem here. 229.5 products retard run-in severely. The Shell product in your engine is designed for the run-in period. These cars have chamferred MOS2 coated rings running in Alusil bores. They are hell to break in & changing early can lead to you having an oil burner for life.
If you decide to do an early change to 229.5 oils please only do this if you intend driving the car hard to ensure proper break in.
It's your choice. I'm not going to argue with you. Just be aware of the above. It is absolutely safe to adopt Benz recommended change interval or 1 year changes.
The filter is removable element & not spin on cartridge. We might have a terminology issue here.
One problem here. 229.5 products retard run-in severely. The Shell product in your engine is designed for the run-in period. These cars have chamferred MOS2 coated rings running in Alusil bores. They are hell to break in & changing early can lead to you having an oil burner for life.
If you decide to do an early change to 229.5 oils please only do this if you intend driving the car hard to ensure proper break in.
It's your choice. I'm not going to argue with you. Just be aware of the above. It is absolutely safe to adopt Benz recommended change interval or 1 year changes.
Also, I saw this come up earlier in the thread. How an oil "looks" has no bearing on whether it should be changed or not. Modern oils should turn black quickly as the detergents do their job. I'd be worried if it didn't.
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Germantown, MD/Rehoboth Beach, DE
Posts: 1,351
Received 87 Likes
on
60 Posts
2024 GLS450
This is the best advice you will get. I'm not sure why so many people continue to believe they know better than the people who designed, developed, engineered and then relentlessly tested these cars.
Also, I saw this come up earlier in the thread. How an oil "looks" has no bearing on whether it should be changed or not. Modern oils should turn black quickly as the detergents do their job. I'd be worried if it didn't.
Also, I saw this come up earlier in the thread. How an oil "looks" has no bearing on whether it should be changed or not. Modern oils should turn black quickly as the detergents do their job. I'd be worried if it didn't.
How an oil looks (and smells) does have a bearing of how good of a job it is doing. We're talking about a 3,500 mile old engine here - so there is (hopefully) not as much for the detergents to be doing with it at this point.
I'm glad this thread has taken on a life of its own - it's probably helped a few people out. Glyn - thank you for answering my question regarding the filter - I am going to head to the dealer to get a filter this week and pick up some Mobil1 (my preference in oil) - I definitely drive the car hard so I am not as concerned about running it in with a 229.5 product. I'll run it a bit longer per your suggestion though - but there's no way I can stomach 10K personally.
$45K is too much money to not give it some cheap insurance in my book, and while I'm 29 - I'm still too old school to run the intervals.
Last edited by MDMercedesGuy; 07-16-2012 at 11:31 AM.
#29
Super Moderator
Responses like this are a double edged sword that assume far too much about people. Regardless of what the manufacturer says, they do not base their recommendations on all driving styles and conditions. They also assume the people who are making the statement don't have a significant engineering background themselves and don't know what they are talking about.
How an oil looks (and smells) does have a bearing of how good of a job it is doing. We're talking about a 3,500 mile old engine here - so there is (hopefully) not as much for the detergents to be doing with it at this point.
I'm glad this thread has taken on a life of its own - it's probably helped a few people out. Glyn - thank you for answering my question regarding the filter - I am going to head to the dealer to get a filter this week and pick up some Mobil1 (my preference in oil) - I definitely drive the car hard so I am not as concerned about running it in with a 229.5 product. I'll run it a bit longer per your suggestion though - but there's no way I can stomach 10K personally.
$45K is too much money to not give it some cheap insurance in my book, and while I'm 29 - I'm still too old school to run the intervals.
How an oil looks (and smells) does have a bearing of how good of a job it is doing. We're talking about a 3,500 mile old engine here - so there is (hopefully) not as much for the detergents to be doing with it at this point.
I'm glad this thread has taken on a life of its own - it's probably helped a few people out. Glyn - thank you for answering my question regarding the filter - I am going to head to the dealer to get a filter this week and pick up some Mobil1 (my preference in oil) - I definitely drive the car hard so I am not as concerned about running it in with a 229.5 product. I'll run it a bit longer per your suggestion though - but there's no way I can stomach 10K personally.
$45K is too much money to not give it some cheap insurance in my book, and while I'm 29 - I'm still too old school to run the intervals.
#30
Senior Member
Actually that's a point worth calling out. In the "old day" cars didn't have so much oil. My 1967 Buick Electra 225 holds 4qts of oil. So that oils is being asked to do a lot more than a car with twice as much oil.
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
How many litres of oil does this car take? Also, can you post a link of what a decent oil filter is for these cars? Also for oil I am thinking Mobil 1 synthetic, is that good?
I am not planning to take it to the dealer as they quoted me $250 for just an oil change which seems absolutely ridiculous. So I want to buy my own oil/filter and take it to some shop and get it changed.
Thanks
I am not planning to take it to the dealer as they quoted me $250 for just an oil change which seems absolutely ridiculous. So I want to buy my own oil/filter and take it to some shop and get it changed.
Thanks
Anyone???
#32
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'08 Mercedes C300
I believe it takes 8.5 liters of oil. The OEM filter is Mann+Hummel (link below). Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 is the factory fill for our vehicles and the OEM brand, though any oil on Mercedes' approved oils list should do.
You should invest in an oil extractor (maybe around $40-70). They're reusable and will be cost effective after a few oil changes.
You should invest in an oil extractor (maybe around $40-70). They're reusable and will be cost effective after a few oil changes.
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'08 Mercedes C300
This should help:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-pictures.html
With Mercedes, the method of choice when changing oil is to use an extractor and pump the oil out from the hood of the car and that is what the dealer will do as well.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-pictures.html
With Mercedes, the method of choice when changing oil is to use an extractor and pump the oil out from the hood of the car and that is what the dealer will do as well.
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't think I will be changing the oil myself, doubt i can do that. So was thinking of getting the material together and going to some shop.
The dealer quoted me $200-$250 for a simple oil change. I have Service B due soon and they said $700 for that! I am thinking just change the oil and reset the meter and be done with that.
The dealer quoted me $200-$250 for a simple oil change. I have Service B due soon and they said $700 for that! I am thinking just change the oil and reset the meter and be done with that.
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shanghai, China
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2012 C200 CGI
I believe it takes 8.5 liters of oil. The OEM filter is Mann+Hummel (link below). Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 is the factory fill for our vehicles and the OEM brand, though any oil on Mercedes' approved oils list should do.
You should invest in an oil extractor (maybe around $40-70). They're reusable and will be cost effective after a few oil changes.
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...2008&carId=004
You should invest in an oil extractor (maybe around $40-70). They're reusable and will be cost effective after a few oil changes.
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...2008&carId=004
#40
Super Moderator
Please only use a fleece filter by Mann + Hummel. It is available in their own box. MB Genuine packaging or repacked for Bosch & K&N. This is what it looks like.
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Shanghai, China
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2012 C200 CGI
amazon says it does not fit but sites in europe and australia is listing it to be the one for 2012 C180, c200, c250 cgi blue efficiency. Mann model HU514x
Last edited by J__; 09-08-2012 at 01:38 PM.
#43
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 541
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
12 Posts
10 speed bicycle
correct me if wrong, but is this the proper one?
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...eywords=HU514x
amazon says it does not fit but sites in europe and australia is listing it to be the one for 2012 C180, c200, c250 cgi blue efficiency. Mann model HU514x
http://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-HU...eywords=HU514x
amazon says it does not fit but sites in europe and australia is listing it to be the one for 2012 C180, c200, c250 cgi blue efficiency. Mann model HU514x
#44
Super Moderator
In SA we have fleece filters available for M271 EVO and all previous M271. Only US dumped M271 fleece for paper on pre EVO ~ real dumb!
Indeed the capacity is 5.8 US qts. Not bad by today's standards for a 4 banger. Yes ~ on a turbo engine I might have increased that.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-09-2012 at 02:19 AM.
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 541
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
12 Posts
10 speed bicycle
I'm well aware of that. I was just showing what the blown polyester looks like. The filter shown is for V6.
In SA we have fleece filters available for M271 EVO and all previous M271. Only US dumped M271 fleece for paper on pre EVO ~ real dumb!
Indeed the capacity is 5.8 US qts. Not bad by today's standards for a 4 banger. Yes ~ on a turbo engine I might have increased that.
In SA we have fleece filters available for M271 EVO and all previous M271. Only US dumped M271 fleece for paper on pre EVO ~ real dumb!
Indeed the capacity is 5.8 US qts. Not bad by today's standards for a 4 banger. Yes ~ on a turbo engine I might have increased that.
#46
Super Moderator
Yes - on reflection I'm sorry I might have inadvertently caused confusion. I merely wanted to show what the fleece material looked like vs paper. I prefer the fleece filter knowing it's capabilities but in fairness US has reduced drain interval to 10K from 13K. It still confounds me that the fleece filter was withdrawn from the US market for M271.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-09-2012 at 12:39 PM.
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yes - on reflection I'm sorry I might have inadvertently caused confusion. I merely wanted to show what the fleece material looked like vs paper. I prefer the fleece filter knowing it's capabilities but in fairness US has reduced drain interval to 10K from 13K. It still confounds me that the fleece filter was withdrawn from the US market for M271.
- Material cost reduction for non-fleece filter in original production
- Need to have replacement part match original filter
- Shift cost to owner by reducing oil change cycle to 10,000 miles
- Maintain parts replacement price from fleece to non-fleece for margin improvement
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Delaware
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
Originally Posted by kevink2
Not all Mobil1 oils are the same, and several are not on the 229.5 approved list, usually for too low a valvue of HTHS, among other spec's. Which exact one did you try?
There is no "normal" Mobil1. The most popular / best selling Mobil1 is likely 5W-30 or another XW-30 oil, and those Mobil1's don't pass the MB 229.5 spec and the related ACEA A3 spec.
.
#49
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Delaware
Posts: 1,331
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
2004 Mazda6, 1993 RX7
I suspect the following MB logic:
- Material cost reduction for non-fleece filter in original production
- Need to have replacement part match original filter
- Shift cost to owner by reducing oil change cycle to 10,000 miles- Maintain parts replacement price from fleece to non-fleece for margin improvement
- Material cost reduction for non-fleece filter in original production
- Need to have replacement part match original filter
- Shift cost to owner by reducing oil change cycle to 10,000 miles- Maintain parts replacement price from fleece to non-fleece for margin improvement
The non-fleese filter could be a "high milage" synthetic fiber blend filter media, like from Mobil1:
Mobil1 high milage filter media
.
Last edited by kevink2; 09-09-2012 at 01:23 PM.
#50
MBWorld Fanatic!
How does 10K change-cycles shift cost to owner?
The non-fleese filter could be a "high milage" synthetic fiber blend filter media, like from Mobil1:
Mobil1 high milage filter media
.
The non-fleese filter could be a "high milage" synthetic fiber blend filter media, like from Mobil1:
Mobil1 high milage filter media
.