started tear down for paint
03-14-2011, 11:40 PM
#226
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The $40 ABS pump arrived today. Of course, Canada Post has to deliver it on a Monday, can't deliver it on a Friday so I could have actually had time to install it on the weekend....boo. 
I noticed a couple of anomalies in the past few days, which are probably unrelated but I'll post anyway.
Last week, the car sat at work all day and when I left for home, I fired it up and no ESP/ABS lights on. Woot. But a bulb failure light was on. I drove home, and part way home the bulb failure light went off, and the ESP/ABS stayed functional. Indeed, it stayed functional for a couple of days.
I've checked the tail lamp bulbs, and they all look fine, but I'm going to replace all of them anyway. However, earlier today I had both the bulb failure and the ESP/ABS lights on, so that's why I surmise it's unrelated.
Read up on how Benzes need power bleeding. I don't want to buy a power bleeder, but I will revert to what I did on my Saabs - using a coolant system pressure tester to power bleed. So instead of pressurizing the coolant system, I'll just force the brake fluid through the reservoir with the coolant system tester instead. The only difference with a power bleeder is that while the power bleeders typically have a reservoir to feed the system, the coolant system pressure tester does not. I used it a lot on my Saabs, made bleeding the brakes and clutch a snap (they shared the reservoir). I even have a nice aluminum cap that will screw onto the Benz master cylinder - fortunately, it's the same thread pitch as my old Saabs.
I noticed a couple of anomalies in the past few days, which are probably unrelated but I'll post anyway.
Last week, the car sat at work all day and when I left for home, I fired it up and no ESP/ABS lights on. Woot. But a bulb failure light was on. I drove home, and part way home the bulb failure light went off, and the ESP/ABS stayed functional. Indeed, it stayed functional for a couple of days.
I've checked the tail lamp bulbs, and they all look fine, but I'm going to replace all of them anyway. However, earlier today I had both the bulb failure and the ESP/ABS lights on, so that's why I surmise it's unrelated.
Read up on how Benzes need power bleeding. I don't want to buy a power bleeder, but I will revert to what I did on my Saabs - using a coolant system pressure tester to power bleed. So instead of pressurizing the coolant system, I'll just force the brake fluid through the reservoir with the coolant system tester instead. The only difference with a power bleeder is that while the power bleeders typically have a reservoir to feed the system, the coolant system pressure tester does not. I used it a lot on my Saabs, made bleeding the brakes and clutch a snap (they shared the reservoir). I even have a nice aluminum cap that will screw onto the Benz master cylinder - fortunately, it's the same thread pitch as my old Saabs.
03-15-2011, 01:46 AM
#228
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Marcus: I haven't done the bleed yet on the C43, but I will soon. I've used the coolant system pressure tester dozens of times on my Saabs, but they were all non-ABS equipped. Heh, I've used it more times to bleed the brakes and clutch on my Saabs than for testing the coolant system!
I understand the WIS directs 2 bar of pressure with a power bleeder; I checked my coolant system tester and it maxes out at 2 bar. I'm confident it'll work, but I'll post once I've done it. Worst case scenario I will do a nominal bleed with the pedal method and my pressure tester, and then let the indy Benz shop handle it with their own equipment. I was all set to buy the Motive Products power bleeder, but then I checked the thread pitch on the old adaptor and it worked, so I will give it a go.
Eundaddy: Haven't installed the calipers yet, only test fitting and at that point I didn't check the piston orientation. I'll probably have another go this weekend. The only worry I have is that the Stoptech stainless lines I bought will be long enough. I know I said that they would be fine in previous posts, but I forget which way I had the caliper oriented, it could have been the incorrect way.
I understand the WIS directs 2 bar of pressure with a power bleeder; I checked my coolant system tester and it maxes out at 2 bar. I'm confident it'll work, but I'll post once I've done it. Worst case scenario I will do a nominal bleed with the pedal method and my pressure tester, and then let the indy Benz shop handle it with their own equipment. I was all set to buy the Motive Products power bleeder, but then I checked the thread pitch on the old adaptor and it worked, so I will give it a go.
Eundaddy: Haven't installed the calipers yet, only test fitting and at that point I didn't check the piston orientation. I'll probably have another go this weekend. The only worry I have is that the Stoptech stainless lines I bought will be long enough. I know I said that they would be fine in previous posts, but I forget which way I had the caliper oriented, it could have been the incorrect way.
Last edited by Saaboteur; 03-15-2011 at 12:18 PM. Reason: late night post, said 'Motive Products pressure tester', not 'Motive Products power bleeder' as it should have been
03-15-2011, 08:33 AM
#229
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
the stoptech lines are about 2 inches longer than oem. i think you should be fine. try to see if u can benchmark the performance between the c32 and the c43 brakes. maybe a 60-0 stopping distance comparison would help people like me justify this upgrade ^_^.
03-15-2011, 12:08 PM
#230
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[quote=Saaboteur;4570989]Marcus: I haven't done the bleed yet on the C43, but I will soon. I've used the coolant system pressure tester dozens of times on my Saabs, but they were all non-ABS equipped. Heh, I've used it more times to bleed the brakes and clutch on my Saabs than for testing the coolant system!
I understand the WIS directs 2 bar of pressure with a power bleeder; I checked my coolant system tester and it maxes out at 2 bar. I'm confident it'll work, but I'll post once I've done it. Worst case scenario I will do a nominal bleed with the pedal method and my pressure tester, and then let the indy Benz shop handle it with their own equipment. I was all set to buy the Motive Products pressure tester, but then I checked the thread pitch on the old adaptor and it worked, so I will give it a go.
quote]
I've got a Motive power bleeder. The adapter works great, but at 2 Bar no brake fluid comes out.
I have to bleed the brakes using my home made one-man-bleeder. David B (in the CLK section) has a Motive bleeder too. I don't know if he's had any better success.
I understand the WIS directs 2 bar of pressure with a power bleeder; I checked my coolant system tester and it maxes out at 2 bar. I'm confident it'll work, but I'll post once I've done it. Worst case scenario I will do a nominal bleed with the pedal method and my pressure tester, and then let the indy Benz shop handle it with their own equipment. I was all set to buy the Motive Products pressure tester, but then I checked the thread pitch on the old adaptor and it worked, so I will give it a go.
quote]
I've got a Motive power bleeder. The adapter works great, but at 2 Bar no brake fluid comes out.
I have to bleed the brakes using my home made one-man-bleeder. David B (in the CLK section) has a Motive bleeder too. I don't know if he's had any better success.
03-19-2011, 01:46 AM
#234
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
03-19-2011, 02:04 AM
#235
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This thread has turned into my 'build' thread. It started with my tear down of the car last spring for a repaint. Since then (because I clearly have too much time on my hands, but also to document the more common mods for the car), I have decided to document my maintenance and mods too. It remains obsidian black.
I think everyone has enjoyed this thread SAAB
03-19-2011, 02:18 PM
#238
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG sold)
I like reading your comments and explanation. Keep them coming as they are pertinent and instructive for our cars 
03-19-2011, 03:58 PM
#239
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Dynocomped C43K, 08 X5
No, Im not. What makes you think that I'm kidding?? We should be adulting
I'm kidding
I've been reading a lot of good stuffs from Mr.Saabo and I'm actually thinking of re-painting my car. I was thinking new E class's dark blue on c43 would look fantastic.
I'm kiddingI've been reading a lot of good stuffs from Mr.Saabo and I'm actually thinking of re-painting my car. I was thinking new E class's dark blue on c43 would look fantastic.
03-19-2011, 04:01 PM
#240
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Dynocomped C43K, 08 X5
This thread has turned into my 'build' thread. It started with my tear down of the car last spring for a repaint. Since then (because I clearly have too much time on my hands, but also to document the more common mods for the car), I have decided to document my maintenance and mods too. It remains obsidian black.
03-21-2011, 12:41 PM
#241
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Thanks everyone for their kind words.
Yesterday I had a busy day in the garage. I had posted earlier about my ESP/ABS problem. Star diagnostics pointed out that the culprit was the ABS pump - intermittent problem with it getting power. Actually, the past few weeks it was more like 'intermittently working properly', as opposed to 'intermittent problem'!
As swapping the ABS pump would require a complete brake bleed, I also took the opportunity to swap in the C32 front calipers, and new OE discs (factory 'drilled' BTW), pads and Stoptech stainless lines all round. The only remaining pieces are the original rear calipers.
I posted in another thread about the issues with the C32 calipers and the piston orientation and brake line length. https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...kes-202-a.html
Now with practical experience, I can write about it some more. Even with the Stoptech lines being a bit longer than stock, they were still insufficiently long to connect the caliper to the brake hardline with the caliper in the correct orientation. Thankfully, and fortuitously, the used calipers I had were previously on a '94 E420, and the seller included a pair of angled adaptors. Using these adaptors provided enough length, and more importantly, the right angle, for the stainless line to connect to the hardline.
With the caliper mounted for the proper piston orientation, but with the bleeder valve pointed downwards (ie, left caliper on left side), the brakeline orifice on the caliper is pointed downwards too. The angled adaptor corrects the angle to allow the stainless line to head upwards towards the hardline.
I will snap a few better pictures, because yesterday I was just focused on getting everything together.
Also, I moved the pad wear sensor inwards a bit, to help it clear my wheels. This shouldn't be a problem with 18s, however. I just used a longer bolt and a couple nuts as spacers.
Finally, while the original caliper mounting bolts are fine, they could use another 5mm in length. As it is, there is approximately 60% 'penetration', if you will, in that they are sufficiently threaded into the caliper. But, that other 5mm of length will enable it to be fully threaded. For reference, the longer bolt needed is M12x40mm length, 1.5 thread pitch.
However, I could not get the brakes bled properly. Marcus will be interested to know – my coolant system pressure tester wasn’t sealing properly, so I couldn’t get any pressure into the system, let alone enough pressure to comply with the WIS’ 2 bar requirement. So I duly enlisted the help of my long suffering wife to pedal pump while I bled. Unfortunately, by the time we were done, even though the fluid was coming out clear without bubbles, I still got a mushy pedal. At that point, it was time to make dinner so afterwards we limped the car to the Mercedes indy shop and left it overnight with instructions to bleed.
I just got off the phone with them, and they told me that they can’t bleed them with the calipers mounted the way I have done. So it looks like all the hard work in figuring everything out will come to nought (at least for now). They are going to swap the calipers from side to side so that I can get a good bleed. There was apparently also an issue with some leakage from the lines.
Once the car is off the road for the season (hopefully in another month or so), I will investigate custom lines to overcome the line length issue, and then try another bleed. All the forum postings I’ve read say that even with the calipers on the ‘wrong’ side, guys feel a good improvement. Mind you, just about anything on my car will be an improvement now – while the old pads had decent meat on them, the discs were below minimum.
Pix:
Yesterday I had a busy day in the garage. I had posted earlier about my ESP/ABS problem. Star diagnostics pointed out that the culprit was the ABS pump - intermittent problem with it getting power. Actually, the past few weeks it was more like 'intermittently working properly', as opposed to 'intermittent problem'!
As swapping the ABS pump would require a complete brake bleed, I also took the opportunity to swap in the C32 front calipers, and new OE discs (factory 'drilled' BTW), pads and Stoptech stainless lines all round. The only remaining pieces are the original rear calipers.
I posted in another thread about the issues with the C32 calipers and the piston orientation and brake line length. https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...kes-202-a.html
Now with practical experience, I can write about it some more. Even with the Stoptech lines being a bit longer than stock, they were still insufficiently long to connect the caliper to the brake hardline with the caliper in the correct orientation. Thankfully, and fortuitously, the used calipers I had were previously on a '94 E420, and the seller included a pair of angled adaptors. Using these adaptors provided enough length, and more importantly, the right angle, for the stainless line to connect to the hardline.
With the caliper mounted for the proper piston orientation, but with the bleeder valve pointed downwards (ie, left caliper on left side), the brakeline orifice on the caliper is pointed downwards too. The angled adaptor corrects the angle to allow the stainless line to head upwards towards the hardline.
I will snap a few better pictures, because yesterday I was just focused on getting everything together.
Also, I moved the pad wear sensor inwards a bit, to help it clear my wheels. This shouldn't be a problem with 18s, however. I just used a longer bolt and a couple nuts as spacers.
Finally, while the original caliper mounting bolts are fine, they could use another 5mm in length. As it is, there is approximately 60% 'penetration', if you will, in that they are sufficiently threaded into the caliper. But, that other 5mm of length will enable it to be fully threaded. For reference, the longer bolt needed is M12x40mm length, 1.5 thread pitch.
However, I could not get the brakes bled properly. Marcus will be interested to know – my coolant system pressure tester wasn’t sealing properly, so I couldn’t get any pressure into the system, let alone enough pressure to comply with the WIS’ 2 bar requirement. So I duly enlisted the help of my long suffering wife to pedal pump while I bled. Unfortunately, by the time we were done, even though the fluid was coming out clear without bubbles, I still got a mushy pedal. At that point, it was time to make dinner so afterwards we limped the car to the Mercedes indy shop and left it overnight with instructions to bleed.
I just got off the phone with them, and they told me that they can’t bleed them with the calipers mounted the way I have done. So it looks like all the hard work in figuring everything out will come to nought (at least for now). They are going to swap the calipers from side to side so that I can get a good bleed. There was apparently also an issue with some leakage from the lines.
Once the car is off the road for the season (hopefully in another month or so), I will investigate custom lines to overcome the line length issue, and then try another bleed. All the forum postings I’ve read say that even with the calipers on the ‘wrong’ side, guys feel a good improvement. Mind you, just about anything on my car will be an improvement now – while the old pads had decent meat on them, the discs were below minimum.
Pix:
03-21-2011, 01:36 PM
#242
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
did you try bleeding them with the power bleeder? this way you don't need the calipers oriented in any specific way. i think that's how the club202 owners have done it.
you can also try swapping the pistons in the calipers themselves without swapping them front right to left.
im confident in saying that if you bleed your brakes with the power bleeder you don't need the calipers oriented in a specific fashion. since you are letting the bubbles bleed out through the reservoir (air will naturally travel up). let me know what you decide to do. it's been a while since i was interested in this upgrade myself and this is as far as i remember from my research. i am quite interested in the performance aspect of this upgrade, getting the calipers mounted perfectly would be essential.
the brake upgrade looks sick btw. you may want to think about the twin spoke wheels to present them better, those monos are covering them beauties up.
you can also try swapping the pistons in the calipers themselves without swapping them front right to left.
im confident in saying that if you bleed your brakes with the power bleeder you don't need the calipers oriented in a specific fashion. since you are letting the bubbles bleed out through the reservoir (air will naturally travel up). let me know what you decide to do. it's been a while since i was interested in this upgrade myself and this is as far as i remember from my research. i am quite interested in the performance aspect of this upgrade, getting the calipers mounted perfectly would be essential.
the brake upgrade looks sick btw. you may want to think about the twin spoke wheels to present them better, those monos are covering them beauties up.
03-21-2011, 02:56 PM
#244
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Yeah, the shop is supposed to be using a power bleeder, but they still can't get it to bleed! Weird. I dunno. It could be that the removal of the ABS pump is proving the sticking point, as I thought I read somewhere on the other forum that the 2 bar of pressure is required to get through the various passages in the ABS pump and the manifold. Perhaps once that is done, I can try swapping the calipers back and try another bleed.
Ever since I bought the calipers, I've been having second thoughts on the Monoblocks I have, both in 17" and 18". I don't really like the twin-spoke AMGs that came stock on the C32 and C55 though. Now I'm kinda missing my old 5-spoke AMGs that I sold already. Ah well. Anyone want a set of 18" Monoblocks?
Ever since I bought the calipers, I've been having second thoughts on the Monoblocks I have, both in 17" and 18". I don't really like the twin-spoke AMGs that came stock on the C32 and C55 though. Now I'm kinda missing my old 5-spoke AMGs that I sold already. Ah well. Anyone want a set of 18" Monoblocks?
03-21-2011, 03:06 PM
#246
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I've seen Koich's photos of his car on the 17" C32 wheels, and I just feel the wheels look too 'modern' for the older 202 body. I'd very much go for a set of BBS LMs, but that's looking like $2k even for used, and likely re-drilled from 5x114.3.
Oh, and I also got the new storage bin and 12v socket from the dealer the other day, but haven't installed yet. Got the idea for those from Eundaddy too!
03-21-2011, 03:09 PM
#247
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
haha i thought about starting a thread like yours but im too busy with my crx right now. ill put up pictures of the w211 e55 wheels up on this thread for you though. my c43 is waiting to be lowered and resprayed. i originally was going to put C32/55 double spokes but came up on an offer on these e55s that i couldnt pass up.
03-21-2011, 04:22 PM
#250
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Yes, there is a spacer - 3mm. I did not get extended lugs though - 3mm isn't huge, just enough to clear. I don't think they make lug bolts 3mm longer than stock, they start at 5mm for those.
When I test fit everything, I had to run the 3mm spacers there for both the 17" and 18" Monoblocks.
When I test fit everything, I had to run the 3mm spacers there for both the 17" and 18" Monoblocks.
