front and back strut bars
#101
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2005 E55 AMG
Ruining shocks?
The rear bar VIP created works very well, attached to the metal or not it plants the car tremendously.
Just curious now if its going to mess the shocks up since its pulling them Inward...
Just curious now if its going to mess the shocks up since its pulling them Inward...
There is a threaded clevis adjustment on the rear bar.
It's only there to allow the bar to be installed.
They are a structural brace that prevents the towers from flexing.
Your comment demonstrates what I'm stating: "Too tight and the rear end gets pretty rough." only because you're pulling the top of the shocks towards each other and changing the geometry.
The strut tower bars are an adjunct to the more important suspension modifications.
Really don't make a difference unless the vehicle is making a great deal of torque/power.
Difficult to flex the unibody with stock power output.
It's only there to allow the bar to be installed.
They are a structural brace that prevents the towers from flexing.
Your comment demonstrates what I'm stating: "Too tight and the rear end gets pretty rough." only because you're pulling the top of the shocks towards each other and changing the geometry.
The strut tower bars are an adjunct to the more important suspension modifications.
Really don't make a difference unless the vehicle is making a great deal of torque/power.
Difficult to flex the unibody with stock power output.
#102
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88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
One of the reasons why there is a rubber bushing in the rear mount.
Connecting the top of the strut/shock still allows movement through the rubber bushing as the tower flexes under load. Unfortunately the direct connection causes both to move in tandem.
Bracing the towers precludes this movement.
Struts/shocks aren't a structural part of the unibody as they are designed to have movement.
Bracing the tower causes the strut/shock to move within the design limits.
The purpose of a strut brace is to only hold the strut towers where they are, not pull them in or push them out.
Also they should be used in conjunction with stiffer anti sway bars.
Last edited by RBYCC; 06-22-2013 at 08:30 AM.
#105
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2005 E55 AMG
v6
Big Mike!
Like I said you have the v6 model.
I know it can be done but I was just clarifying because supposedly there was no modding needed except for drilling a hole and cutting the fire wall....
But there is actually ALOT more than just that.
Like I said you have the v6 model.
I know it can be done but I was just clarifying because supposedly there was no modding needed except for drilling a hole and cutting the fire wall....
But there is actually ALOT more than just that.
#106
I just took my VIP bar out of the trunk...it tore my shock tower!
I installed VIP's back strut bar and after running with it for several months noticed a tare in the sheet metal around the strut tower on the right side. I will post pictures later. The sheet metal obviously is not welded/built strong enough to handle the additional stiffness of the rear. The car was made to flex some degree; this is the way it was designed.
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
#107
#108
MBWorld Fanatic!
#109
MBWorld Fanatic!
I installed VIP's back strut bar and after running with it for several months noticed a tare in the sheet metal around the strut tower on the right side. I will post pictures later. The sheet metal obviously is not welded/built strong enough to handle the additional stiffness of the rear. The car was made to flex some degree; this is the way it was designed.
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
Last edited by Williams707; 09-20-2014 at 12:27 AM.
#110
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CLK W208
Very sorry to hear about your issue. I've had mine since 2007 and have tracked the car atleast 18 times and countless canyon drives plus my very harsh daily driving. Please have the bodyshop check from underneath behind the fender liners to make sure you dont have any rust issues. Again this is very strange to me. Something else must have contributed to it because your shocks shouldnt have much play to beging with and those towers are meant to hold the pressure from the shocks which is a lot. Please have them check from underneath for safety
#111
Photos of shock tower tare
Very sorry to hear about your issue. I've had mine since 2007 and have tracked the car atleast 18 times and countless canyon drives plus my very harsh daily driving. Please have the bodyshop check from underneath behind the fender liners to make sure you dont have any rust issues. Again this is very strange to me. Something else must have contributed to it because your shocks shouldnt have much play to beging with and those towers are meant to hold the pressure from the shocks which is a lot. Please have them check from underneath for safety
#112
Photos of tare on shock tower
Very sorry to hear about your issue. I've had mine since 2007 and have tracked the car atleast 18 times and countless canyon drives plus my very harsh daily driving. Please have the bodyshop check from underneath behind the fender liners to make sure you dont have any rust issues. Again this is very strange to me. Something else must have contributed to it because your shocks shouldnt have much play to beging with and those towers are meant to hold the pressure from the shocks which is a lot. Please have them check from underneath for safety
It looks like the right side had a slight contour to the right of the shock, vs a flat wall to the left of the left shock. Can someone confirm this for me?
#113
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CLK W208
Wow that is bad. But I can tell you that is not caused by the shock or the bar. If you look closely you can see that the shock tower has been glued to that part and the glue is still intact. Thats a part of the body sheet metal not the structural sheet metal. Also look at the picture from inside the fender liner you can see that the fuel filler neck and stuff hasnt been moved at all and there are no wrinkles on the shock tower. The glue on the seems between the shock tower and sheet metal would come off way before this happens and you can see it hasnt at all. This is deffinatly caused by too much body roll which shouldnt be there to begin with. Its nothing dangerous and its just sheet metal for body not structure but what im concerned with is the cause. Very have much more body roll because of the lack of stiffness created by the b and c pillars and the roof which is present in coupes but not verts. Therefore they add under body bracing to stiffen up the suspension and keep body integrity. Have thos and their bushings checked for your safety. Again you have alot of body roll that shouldnt be there to begin with and the strut bar tried to stop it and this happened. But a strut bar is not meant to stop that much body roll. Its a correction rather than a fix. But in your case it tried to fix the issue that is being caused by something else. Also have the roof assembly checked for integrity. Hope this helped.
#115
Look under your inside and outside liners.
To be honest, I never knew I had a problem until I removed the inside liners to rerun some audio wires. Then I removed the right wheel well liner and saw the tares and the bolt that holds the fuel filler pulled away from the sheet metal.
Not for nothing, most of the welds back there are awful. You can tell that inert gas was not used and there is missed spots with splatter. I am referring to other structural areas of the trunk, not the shock towers.
In the photo from the wheel well side you can see a hairline crack to the left and right (about 3" long each side) around the shock tower, not the sheet metal.
Not for nothing, most of the welds back there are awful. You can tell that inert gas was not used and there is missed spots with splatter. I am referring to other structural areas of the trunk, not the shock towers.
In the photo from the wheel well side you can see a hairline crack to the left and right (about 3" long each side) around the shock tower, not the sheet metal.
#117
Myworld,
Did you look yet? When you do, can you take a picture of the right side so I know how much I should push the sheet metal back. Right now I had it welded in place so it would not tare more. However, the metal is just a few cm from touching the top of the strut.
If anyone can take a picture of that strut area on the right with the felt longing pulled back I would really appreciate it.
Thank you
Swift
Did you look yet? When you do, can you take a picture of the right side so I know how much I should push the sheet metal back. Right now I had it welded in place so it would not tare more. However, the metal is just a few cm from touching the top of the strut.
If anyone can take a picture of that strut area on the right with the felt longing pulled back I would really appreciate it.
Thank you
Swift
#118
Can someone take a picture of their right rear strut tower?
I need to have my right rear shock tower welded closed, but I don't know how far back the sheet metal needs to be banged back. Should it match the left side?
A picture of someones would be greatly appreciated as soon as possible so I can drive my baby again.
MyWorld, VIP?
Thanks,
SirSwift
A picture of someones would be greatly appreciated as soon as possible so I can drive my baby again.
MyWorld, VIP?
Thanks,
SirSwift
#120
Shocks on backwards!!!
Wow that is bad. But I can tell you that is not caused by the shock or the bar. If you look closely you can see that the shock tower has been glued to that part and the glue is still intact. Thats a part of the body sheet metal not the structural sheet metal. Also look at the picture from inside the fender liner you can see that the fuel filler neck and stuff hasnt been moved at all and there are no wrinkles on the shock tower. The glue on the seems between the shock tower and sheet metal would come off way before this happens and you can see it hasnt at all. This is deffinatly caused by too much body roll which shouldnt be there to begin with. Its nothing dangerous and its just sheet metal for body not structure but what im concerned with is the cause. Very have much more body roll because of the lack of stiffness created by the b and c pillars and the roof which is present in coupes but not verts. Therefore they add under body bracing to stiffen up the suspension and keep body integrity. Have thos and their bushings checked for your safety. Again you have alot of body roll that shouldnt be there to begin with and the strut bar tried to stop it and this happened. But a strut bar is not meant to stop that much body roll. Its a correction rather than a fix. But in your case it tried to fix the issue that is being caused by something else. Also have the roof assembly checked for integrity. Hope this helped.
#121
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2000 CLK320 Cabrio
Notorious German quality
Got Wiechers strut from german dealer for around 150 bucks.
To cut my story short, I put it back into box and hasta la vista
Anyone selling struts of decent build here? Adjustable ones?
To cut my story short, I put it back into box and hasta la vista
Anyone selling struts of decent build here? Adjustable ones?
#122
Member
Those witchers must not be so Bueno if you looked at them and sent them back.
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
#123
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2000 CLK320 Cabrio
Those witchers must not be so Bueno if you looked at them and sent them back.
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
If memory serves me well, VIP gave up with the idea of producing his masterpieces a while ago cause of some mean forum members not paying enough bucks for his time and efforts
It is sad to see most of this forum enthusiasts like him, William and many others are no longer active here. Must be going through the middle age crisis
Or just have scrapped their beloved CLKs
#124
Member
I think there still here. I see william post above, and vipclk320. They didn't give up there rides. There are a lot of others viewing. You can see them on the bottom by whose reading the forum. I like this forum more than benzwld. I've been stuck on fupabox's youtube channel though. So much reading and knowledge on the car.
#125
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CLK W208
Im still here but unfortunately my beloved CLK was totaled the day after Christmas 2014 due to a lady driving her SUV on the wrong side of the road and hitting me head on. I was hospitalized but got o go home after a while but my car didn't make it home. I have since moved on to a 911 Porsche but still miss my w208 55. will always be a AMG fan at heart. any how I did scrape the project because many members started to nickel and dime me around after they placed their orders and would try to haggle with me over $10, so I said no thank you and just stopped all projects. I always made all my parts for my own enjoyment and the love of the w208 so I never cut corners or cheaped up that's why my parts were pricy but that's because of the quality and my limited production capability. any how. I still have to mercedeses in the household but am thinking about another AMG as a daily driver, maybe a stock w208!!!
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