front and back strut bars
Just curious now if its going to mess the shocks up since its pulling them Inward...
It's only there to allow the bar to be installed.
They are a structural brace that prevents the towers from flexing.
Your comment demonstrates what I'm stating: "Too tight and the rear end gets pretty rough." only because you're pulling the top of the shocks towards each other and changing the geometry.
The strut tower bars are an adjunct to the more important suspension modifications.
Really don't make a difference unless the vehicle is making a great deal of torque/power.
Difficult to flex the unibody with stock power output.
One of the reasons why there is a rubber bushing in the rear mount.
Connecting the top of the strut/shock still allows movement through the rubber bushing as the tower flexes under load. Unfortunately the direct connection causes both to move in tandem.
Bracing the towers precludes this movement.
Struts/shocks aren't a structural part of the unibody as they are designed to have movement.
Bracing the tower causes the strut/shock to move within the design limits.
The purpose of a strut brace is to only hold the strut towers where they are, not pull them in or push them out.
Also they should be used in conjunction with stiffer anti sway bars.
Last edited by RBYCC; Jun 22, 2013 at 08:30 AM.
Like I said you have the v6 model.
I know it can be done but I was just clarifying because supposedly there was no modding needed except for drilling a hole and cutting the fire wall....
But there is actually ALOT more than just that.
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
With that said, the bar did stiffen the car up and thereby acknowledge that VIP's strut bar works. However, distributing the forces over one attachment point on each shock tower is no distribution at all. That is why race cars and three point shock towers are created. Three point strut towers are three points so the forces are distributed over three points and thereby reducing any metal fatigue. The W208 was not designed for these forces. The VIP strut bar is a simple design in the fact that it just mounts over the existing shock point. However, one point is not enough. If to be done again, design wise, a bracket must be mounted to at least three points a side into the sheet metal. Although, the metal back there is not made to handle the forces of a strut bar. BTW, I did not install the front strut bar as one bolt in the sheet metal is almost asking to have your wheel wells distort over time.
I am bringing the car into a body shop on Monday to bring the seams back together, weld it and then apply a metal plate over the seam which will also be welded. Cost will be $150.
Installed VIP's strut bars both the front & rear back in 2009 and I drive my car hard.
Last edited by Williams707; Sep 20, 2014 at 12:27 AM.
It looks like the right side had a slight contour to the right of the shock, vs a flat wall to the left of the left shock. Can someone confirm this for me?
Not for nothing, most of the welds back there are awful. You can tell that inert gas was not used and there is missed spots with splatter. I am referring to other structural areas of the trunk, not the shock towers.
In the photo from the wheel well side you can see a hairline crack to the left and right (about 3" long each side) around the shock tower, not the sheet metal.
Did you look yet? When you do, can you take a picture of the right side so I know how much I should push the sheet metal back. Right now I had it welded in place so it would not tare more. However, the metal is just a few cm from touching the top of the strut.
If anyone can take a picture of that strut area on the right with the felt longing pulled back I would really appreciate it.
Thank you
Swift
A picture of someones would be greatly appreciated as soon as possible so I can drive my baby again.
MyWorld, VIP?
Thanks,
SirSwift
To cut my story short, I put it back into box and hasta la vista

Anyone selling struts of decent build here? Adjustable ones?
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
Glad that I got mine from vipclk320. A little drilling and repositioning some things for the front. Had to cut the carpet panels in the back for the rear, but so easy to put on. Maybe he'll make some more, or have afew stashed away in storage.
If memory serves me well, VIP gave up with the idea of producing his masterpieces a while ago cause of some mean forum members not paying enough bucks for his time and efforts

It is sad to see most of this forum enthusiasts like him, William and many others are no longer active here. Must be going through the middle age crisis

Or just have scrapped their beloved CLKs






