mint

As the 208 has been technically discontinued for about 8 years (and most of you guys have 208s that are earlier model years), I'm sure lots of us are caught up in keeping up with maintenance...and does it get expensive! Most of the threads (albeit this subforum is a tad dead) are about maintenance: some expensive, some not, most frustrating the heck out of us. So here's a thread to vent about current problems; I know I feel better by organizing all the things I need to do. I don't know if this will fail miserably, but I'll keep posting in here periodically with updates and new issues as they arise.

I bought the car used with 69k. Currently @ 90k on my 208's clock, so that means the good ol' 100k overhaul is nearly due. Here's my list:

Fluids
- tranny service: done about 8k miles ago, along with new o-ring to prevent leaking into the wiring harness and destroying the TCU
- oil and filter: due in a couple thousand miles
- brake flush: to be done
- diff fluid: to be done
- power steering fluid: to be done
- coolant: to be done

Suspension/steering
- tie rod assembly (incl. inners, outers, and tie rod): to be done very soon, also pretty sure this is at least a contributor, if not the main problem, to my wheel wobble and vibration I've been fighting for a few months
- steering damper: getting done along with the tie rod assy
- lower and upper ball joints: supposedly good last time I checked, probably should check again
- lower control arms and bushings: I hope the arms aren't bad, bushings should probably be changed but KMAC's poly camber bushings will replace anyways
- steering box bolts: to be checked
- sway bar bushings and sway bar end links: to be checked
- Bilstein sport shocks: to replace the Bilstein HDs as I'm lowered and have way too much travel going over bumps, going to mess with spring pads at the same time
- Pitman and idler arm: to be checked
- wheel bearings: no symptoms

Motor/drive accessories
- motor mounts: needs to be done
- serpentine belt: needs to be done
- plugs and wires: going to put off probably until 110k
- idler pulley: to be done with serp belt
- power steering pump: could be dying, might be remedied with new belt

Drivetrain
- tranny mount: needs to be done
- flex disc: to be checked
- center support bearing: to be checked
- shifter bushings: to be done

Miscellanea
- cabin filter: to be done
- fuel filter: to be done
- annoying rattle coming from top latch handle area and passenger seat's forward lean handle
- xenon's need height adjustment
- foglights aren't working/passenger fog bracket to be replaced

Wow, I think that's everything -- anything I'm missing? I do feel better though First up on the list are the tie rod assy and steering damper. I'm not one to work on my own cars, so I'll be taking them to a local indy that specializes in high-end European cars. Some of the things on the list are just function and spec check, so I'm sure I can cut it down considerably. I'll report back with updates.

slowsky

112k miles, went through the same thing as you but certain ones had to pay "amg" prices

Not all these went out 10k miles ago, @ 100k miles I took my time and did major preventative maintenance/upgrades between 100k-101k miles.

Fluids:
- tranny service: done about 10k miles ago, along with new o-ring to prevent leaking into the wiring harness and destroying the TCU
- oil and filter: done 1k miles ago
- brake flush: done 10k miles ago
- diff fluid: done 10k miles ago
- power steering fluid: done 10k miles ago
- coolant: done 10k miles ago

Suspension/steering
- tie rod assembly (incl. inners, outers, and tie rod): same issue as you, putting it off as it's a big job
- steering damper: done 10k miles ago
- lower and upper ball joints: done 10k miles ago
- lower control arms and bushings: doing it same time as tie rod assembly
- steering box bolts: done 10k miles ago
- sway bar bushings and sway bar end links: done 10k miles ago
- Bilstein sport shocks: going to replace with Bilstein HD and Vogtland Springs as I'm still on original shocks/springs
- Pitman and idler arm: to be checked
- wheel bearings: no symptoms

Motor/drive accessories
- motor mounts: done 10k miles ago
- serpentine belt: done 10k miles ago
- plugs and wires: done 10k miles ago
- idler pulley: done 10k miles ago
- power steering pump: original, still going strong

Drivetrain
- tranny mount: done 10k miles ago
- flex disc: to be checked
- center support bearing: to be checked
- shifter bushings: done 10k miles ago

Misc
- air filter: done 10k miles ago,upgrade to renntech cf airbox with new mann air filter
- cabin filter: done 10k miles ago
- fuel filter: done 10k miles ago
- passenger side xenon self leveler motor died: pondering on headlight replacement with original or ebay
- foglights are cracked: found some replacements from junk yard
- secondary cats rattle: deleted secondary cats/resonator 5k miles ago
- not enough traction: upgraded to e55 18" monoblocks IIs with 265/35/18 rears
- maf: done 10k miles ago
- o2 sensors: done 10k miles ago
- crank position sensor: done 10k miles ago
- cam sensor: done 10k miles ago

mint

Haha, I didn't mean you had to copy my list since I don't know how inclusive it is, but I'll take it as a compliment that I covered most maintenance items Of course, we all know MarcusF is the 208 guru so I'd like him to poke his head in here and throw some things out.

Anyways, I'd love to hear what you're problems are with the tie rod and ends. My symptoms persisted ever since I lowered my car, so it could just be something as simple as a loose bolt, but I'm fairly certain it's something to do with the assembly. My symptoms:

- low speed wobble, always feels like something's "loose" at any speed
- 60-70mph front end vibration in footwell, slightly the seats and steering wheel -- not incredibly severe but it's very annoying (not the tires or wheels as they've been road force balanced on a Hunter 9700 and checked out okay)
- wandering, must constantly make steering corrections
- always pulls to the right -- could possibly be off-centered steering wheel when I got an alignment but the pulling isn't linear, so I don't think it's that

slowsky

you provided a good list...it will help when people do searches...

tie rod/control arm bushings:

- suspensioin feels loose
- 60-70 is probably your wheels need balancing
- 40 is where i feel mine when its cold out, probably control arm bushings
- def wandering
- could be bigger rims? i had my 17 snows on and went to 18s and my steering will rip to the right or left depending on grooves/slant of the road. More contact patch?

mint

Fortunately, when I bought my used car, I somewhat impulsively bought an aftermarket service contract (also called "warranty" but technically, this isn't correct) through EasyCare. It's good through 2 years (December 2012) or 106k miles, whichever comes first. Don't remember the price, but I think it was pretty good for the coverage. I got the highest tier, which covers a ton of things. Note that EasyCare is an "inclusive" contract meaning that they will cover only items explicitly stated in the covered section of the contract. Lo and behold, the tie rod ends and drag link are all covered along with the motor and tranny mounts! You can see what exactly is covered here.

Since I have a $250 deductible per visit, I decided to go all out and taking the car to supposedly the best Mercedes service dealership in the Sacramento area on Friday, MB of El Dorado Hills. MB of Sacramento is just terrible and I'll never go back there. I've never made a claim before through my contract, so we'll see how smoothly this all goes.

mint

Went to the dealer on Friday, spent about 8 hours waiting for them to do the following:

- complete safety/function check
- both engine mounts replaced along with tranny mount
- tie rods were all fine
- steering damper replaced
- valve cover gasket leaking oil, replaced
- on test drive the throttle potentiometer went out and gave a code, replaced as well

All in all, idle vibration has toned down significantly, the shifter doesn't vibrate as much as it used to in gear and steering has most of its character back. I never even knew the valve cover was leaking, so that was nice of them to let me know.

Alas, I still have that slight shimmy up front. It's not as noticeable as before I got my wheels and tires road-force balanced again and rotated (found out one of the front wheels is slightly bent), but it's still there. I'm sure the steering damper has helped to mask some of the vibration as well; I do feel that most of the vibration is now under my seat, so I'm confident after I put my F14s back on, it should be gone. Maybe after I put on new shocks and get my front suspension geometry fixed, something will be found. I do feel that the initial installer of my Eibachs didn't do a great job, especially since my driver's side sits lower than the passenger. I've thrown my hands up and when I get my new shocks put in, I will tell the installers to make sure the springs are seated correctly in the spring pads as well as the perch, and more importantly, to evenly preload before tightening all suspension bolts. Also, my caster is pretty positive and out of spec, as well as my negative camber...nothing KMAC bushings can't fix.

I don't have the invoice on my desk, but it came out to a total of $2,200 and some change. I ended up only paying my $250 deductible along with a couple of hoses that were falling apart. That said, the service advisor said EasyCare was extremely easy to work with and instantly approved all my repairs. I would highly recommend them; even if they are an inclusionary service contract, their TotalCare (highest tier of coverage) covers a ton of stuff...I'd be hard-pressed to think of more than a few things that aren't covered by them.

Next up is the KMAC front camber/caster kit, possibly might need to hold off on the Bilstein B8s depending on how much install will cost. Appointment is set for May 6th.

SoCalw11w123

My Vent: I dumped 2k on maintenance on my CLK last month..... I still need to do the Trans Service and Front Suspension.

mint

Bilstein B8 Sports are on their way from partsgeek.com:

W0133-1608929 for the front
W0133-1611320 for the rear

I hope these are right. Marcus had reiterated these part numbers in a thread a while back so I took it as gospel and pushed the "submit order" button. Used code "save15" at the checkout and the total came right under $300 for all corners. Not too shabby.

Also ordered two E-class #1 rear spring pads 210 325 0184, as I'm on the #1 E-class spring pads on the front. I forgot to order these when I first installed my Eibachs, so I'm pretty raked since the rears are currently sitting on #3 CLK-class pads.

Import Auto Performance in Iowa is the only US dealer for KMAC...and they don't have any front kits (502016J) available. Guess I'll have to wait for KMAC to send a shipment overseas to finish up my suspension.

roy123474

Hey Twinsin,

Man, I appreciate all the info Suspension/steering & Motor/drive accessories! That will help me out what I need to get done on my car. I have a 2001 CLK55 AMG has about 125K miles on it and haven't replaced any of the Suspension/steering & Motor/drive accessories yet. The car is a BEST!! I been told this car can last forever, I think people might be right. lol But I am getting my water pump, fan clutch, idly pulley, and serp. belt done next month sometimes. I have no leaks at all anyplace in the engine but I know this would be a perfect time to get it done. Then my next thing will be done is Suspension/steering.

What I have got done are the following:

-Transmission Flush when the car had 80K miles on it

-New front brake pads and rotors: Very expensive for the rotors if you want the AMG (close to $300 aprox./each front rotors) & brake front sensors. Just got them done about 5K miles ago. Had the original rotors on it until then. Note:they last for a very long time AMG rotors)

-New rear brake pads and rotors about 5k miles with brake sensor (not that expensive)

-Spark plus and wires. Try to get the BECK ARNLEY Brand 5k miles ago

-MAF (BOSCH) & K&N Air flilter 5k miles ago

-New Stytle front bumper with Day time running lights (DRL) Note: looks very nice!

-Changed the grill on the vehicle too. Looks much nicer as well too.

-18" Chrome AMG Spike Rims with Bridgetone Potenza RE050A I Runflat Tires

-Quad Exhaust System with Diffuser

Once again thanks for the info!

AMG_BENZ

Those lists don't sound bad. The most expensive I've seen out of this is $2,200 for a maintenance. It's really pricey, but not bad when you consider that it could be uglier if your engine or transmission is toasted. There are some of them you can do it yourself.

Can you tell me how often month/year you have to do this? If it's $2,200 every year, then that's alright...

Coupecrazy

Mileage: 115K, most of this done around 100-105K
Fluids:
- tranny service: Needs Doing
- oil and filter: done 3k miles ago
- brake flush: done 10k miles ago
- diff fluid: Needs Doing
- power steering fluid: done 10k miles ago
- coolant: done 3k miles ago

Suspension/steering
- tie rod assembly (incl. inners, outers, and tie rod): Needs Doing
- steering damper: done 10k miles ago
- lower and upper ball joints: done 10k miles ago
- lower control arms and bushings: Needs Doing
- steering box bolts: done 10k miles ago
- sway bar bushings and sway bar end links: done 10k miles ago
- Pitman and idler arm: to be checked
- wheel bearings: In Progress*

Motor/drive accessories
- motor mounts: done 10k miles ago
- serpentine belt: done 3k miles ago
- plugs and wires: done 1k miles ago
- idler pulley: done 3k miles ago
- power steering pump: original, still going strong

Drivetrain
- tranny mount: done 10k miles ago
- flex disc: to be checked
- center support bearing: to be checked
- shifter bushings: done 10k miles ago

Misc
- air filter: done 10k miles ago
- cabin filter: done 1k miles ago
- fuel filter: done 2k miles ago
- foglights are cracked: found some replacements from junk yard
- crank position sensor: Needs Doing
- cam sensor: Needs Doing

* I just had my front driver side bearing fail on me. No howling beforehand, just a sudden sick grinding one night. I limp home after about a mile, and park it. Go to work. Next day I pull the wheel, and dustcap to see a positively SHREDDED outer bearing. The inner race is unfortunately fused to the spindle. I've tried everything, and the hub won't budge. Slide hammer, torch, screw type hub puller... I'm currently sourcing a new steering knuckle, and hub assembly to put in. I'll repack the bearings on the passenger side bearings along with. This is probably the priciest break I've had. About 400 bucks in parts. A month after spending 600 on tires my Fiance is far from happy.

This is only the second part failure I've had that left it immobile. The first was the water pump failing at about 100K. about 200 bucks in parts to replace the pump, thermostat, idler pulley, belt, fan clutch etc...

My Fiance will tell everyone I have so many problems with the car, but I define real problems as ones that leave the car undriveable. Which happened twice in 3 years of owning this car as a daily driver. Not bad for a range topping sledgehammer I say.

AMG_BENZ

So, you fixed everything by yourself? You only mentioned the price on parts, but not the labor if you took it to the mechanic.

Coupecrazy

Yeah I do all my own maintenance, it saves me a ton in operating costs. I always have even with cheap cars, I love working with mechanical things when its preventative. Less so when its reactionary Most times I find cars in bad shape to fix them up. The CLK was pretty worn out when I got it, but bit by bit I've restored it to near new. For me its about knowing I can always improve things with enough hard work.

00w208vert

I have been taking care of my clk 2000 model w208 CLK320 for over a year now and it has been very depedable car.
I purchased it with 140,000 miles from the second or third technically owner but the guy who i bought it from was just helping someone sell it type of thing or flipping it im not sure, but most important thing was there was no check engine lights on... only one dash message for a light bulb i still havent fixed i think its the third brake light has a dimmed light one of the 6 LEDs has gone dead or dying and i do not know how to fix it.. if anyone has replaced those LED bulbs or anything on the third brake light aka trunk rear fog light let know... i will post what i have done as far as replacing things on my high miles 16 year old car. i have rAcked up 18,000 miles in 16 months so im just under 160k miles now.

00w208vert

so when i got the car it was like a blank page i had no service records nor did i even do a carfax.

OIL -- every 3,000 miles (once my mechanic did a 50$ special and i dont think he used full synthetic and the car was not happy so i drained it and used the good stuff castrol GTX 0w 40 or mercedes benz 5w 40 and mobil 1 0w 40 with a fleece oil filter ever since that happend ive been changing oil @ 3,000 - ,000 miles ...i know (duh) right.. no. then comes the

OIL ADDITIVES-- i go and put in Zmax oil additives in the oil and fuel it comes in a 40$ box at napa or autozone with $7 back coupon. that helps the friction on the engines gears read up on it... I also read about Liqui moly products from other MBWORLD members Just used their fuel injectors bottle, and combustion chamber fuel additive and that helps TONS. this last oil changed i went with a liqui moly additive instead of the Zmax so im seeing how they compare. so far seems legit. like the fuel add. products

Headlight restoration --(@150k) you really need to be able to see and I learned that after I hit something in the dark. I sanded my lenses and re finished them with a clear coat easy as that.

Transmission Serviced -- (@ 150k) was done instantly after i heard about the for life horror stories. so far ive drained and filled once at INDY for $200 felt ripped but didnt have the know how yet to do myself, and then I drained and filled two more times as well as checked the 13 pin connector bushing that leaks and wicks up to the TCU and it was dry so hopefully im good there. Im going to do a full flush when I get time (@160k)

Brakes -- (@ 145k) The brakes were very strong when i got the car at 140k less than two years ago. I havent flushed the brake fluid since it looked new, but I have changed front and rear pads once. Not the rotors, and I dont know how long I will get away with not doing the rotors, might need to do them with the next set of pads.

Tires -- (@ 155k) new set of 17s with new winter tires which I took out the studs from the set I bought. Also have a project of AMG 18s with the chrome peeling theyre 8.5 / 9.5 staggared 265/35/18 in the rears like new tires. so im putting 235/40/18 in the front after I figure out if im going to re dip them(im thinking of dipping them white after i clean them up as best i can and make them look like nice white AMG 18s then taking the color of my car in a spray can and painting the white dip to match the car. I check my tire air pressure often and im using 40 psi so that it helps with the road bumps and shakes and also the inner camber wearing of the tires.

MAF SENSOR --(@ 145k) I had to replace my MAF after taking it off to steam clean the engine I guess I bumped it the wrong way and it quit working. or maybe it got wet or something. anyways I did spray water into the air housing to steam clean the heads, and yes i have a slight misfire on cylinder 5 but i think the liqui moly might have helped that i dont hear the click anymore.

Air Filters --(@ 141k) they really needed to be changed bad especially the inside cabin filter. dont wait on that, my stereo actually started cutting out once until I fixed the clogged air vent from the build up in the filter.

Hydraulic Soft Top --(@ 145k) I replaced the o rings on both of my lock cylinders for the hydraulic soft top system and refilled the hydraulic pump with fluid and saved 100's of dollars. Now i have a working vert.

PSE PUMP --(@ 147k) the air pump in the trunk that is the system used to lock and unlock the doors and trunk. I had to replace mine as it got burned out from a leak in the air lines. I still here a leak coming from the trunk and i just hurry and shut my trunk so it doesnt burn out my new PSE. (I SHOULD SAY USED PSE $40 ebay matched exact part number and its been working since)

Interior/Body work (@150k) I have installed new seats and door panels along with arm rest. I also dented up my right fender and headlight and had to replace those. i sourced all the parts locally and installed them myself. Also I have installed the Euro AMG front bumper Kit w/ AMG safety car license plate with mercedes benz Euro license plate holder, tinted smoked tail lights and black plasti dip on my chrome wheels for the rainy season.

Coolant --(@150k) I did a super coolant flush just to be safe. I used two kinds of flush products and filtered them through my raidator and turned on the heater for 5-10 minutes and drained them out then added the mercedes benz blue coolant with 50-50 mix water ratio.

Spark Plugs --(@ 148k) I bought the curved 17mm open ended wrench and replaced all 12 spark plugs. i went with "Denso TT" titanium n platinum duel tipped spark plugs, not sure if i needed it the irridium bosch plugs i pulled out werent that bad looking, but I have to go over everything since I got no service records and I plan on keeping this car for awhile.

Rear Differential --(@ 160k) I plan on servicing the rear differential oil when my 14mm hex bit comes in the mail. Im going with 80W 90 valvoline oil the w208 manual calls for 75w 85 or 85w 90 ? im not sure if im okay with it, but since ive got over 150k i figure ill change it with this stuff now and if i need to get the 75w85 later in another 50k or so.

Idler Pulley + (left stranded easy fix!!)
Serpentine Belt --(@155k) this thing broke on me because I wasnt paying attention to its condition or the fact my idler pully had a lot of play i suspect and i was forced to get a ride to the parts store to get a new idler that failed and a new serpentine. Also I was spraying a lot of belt grease spray on my POLY V belt and I heard that makes it dry out and crack and break sometimes. Be sure to replace your idler pulley its very very easy and smart thing to do. not expensive but essential to making it to where you need to be without any hiccups. lesson learned on that one.

Steering Bolts --(@ 155k) tightened the 3 steering bolts ? under the drivers side front wheel well there are 3 bolts that affect how much your steering wheel shakes. inspect them and tighten to the right ( nm ) tightness.. mine helped somewhat. This car was babied I believe so it didnt have a bad problem with shaking or wobbles or anything as of 140k when I bought it.

Fuel Filter --(@150k) I changed my fuel filter and replaced the clamps and bolts to keep it in place with new ones so its easier for me to service next time.

New battery --(@145k) I put in a new battery after hearing the stories of people getting locked out of their trunk and not being able to get their car jumped or started because the battery in the trunk. this has saved me a few times i left my parking lights on or something like that over night.

Alignment --(@145k) I got the alignment adjusted but the guys shop was fairly new and he said he didnt have the special mercedes tool for the camber or toe in one or the other im guessing, but he got me all fixed up pretty decent and didnt even charge me since he couldnt get the thing exactly to " 0 " even though i think thats just how its supposed to be for our mercedes toe in and camber wear for life right?


AM I Missing something you did that is needed after the 150k mark?
I will keep searching for answers, that is what lead me to post here what ive done so far.
If anyone needs any advice with any of these projects Ive completed let me know.. (especially hydraulic roof locks)
Next im going after the rear diff, brake fluid flush, and the power steering fluid.
The car runs very nice, and I'm looking for a new project after these.. whats a good place to look next?

shadenfroh

2000 CLK 320 at 60 000 miles. Just replaced all the fluids.

I'm working on my suspension now and I think we should also consider age here. I'm going in next week to inspect all the rubber mounts and bushings (flexdiscs too) and replace everything that looks factory or fatigued. Most of it is still technically "good", but the years take their toll. And I just replaced my original factory shocks (which were working fine) with Bilstein B4s.

I think it's better to approach the suspension as a whole unit. Otherwise you may put on new rubber only to have it ruined in no time by a worn shock absorber.

2MERKS

99 CLK 430

Just had state Inspection completed, but i knew i needed some work done front brakes, pads, wheel bearings, and A service to boot was done at 120K. I never miss my services for my car since i purchased wayy back in 05'. The only major issue I had was the BAS/SRS back in 09', and new battery in 10'. Third set of rubber yokos, Michelin x2
18x8.5 f 18x9.5 r.
She only comes out to play on nice sunny days. Just did a thread on mirror motor (plate) install.
I believe the W208s are nice rides, but yes the maintenance can get expensive just as any other mercedes-benz.

Jma77i

anyone running ATF in their power steering ?

MarcusF

I changed my PS fluid some time back. I think it's worthwhile maintenance as the pump retails for $585. I paid $10 for a quart of MB PS fluid. That's about half the price of MB OE (Fuchs) ATF. Valvoline type F ATF is $7 per quart. People should use whatever they want, but if ATF works, it doesn't save much.