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Few weeks back I purchased a 2012 R350 Bluetec with seized engine. The car has 96K and the owner described the seizure similar to other descriptions elsewhere on this forum. Driving on highway, hearing a knock from the engine and then stopped. The body and interior are in nice shape and I like challenges so next thing is to take the engine out and find out what happed. The weather in New York has been cold and the car does not fit in the garage so I have been delayed with engine removal. Just got few items off the engine.
I have the MB service manual but would like to get advice on few items:
I was told the engine can come out from the top with a engine hoist, is that correct?
If so, the radiator, radiator support, intercooler and front bumper should come off?
How easy is to get to the transmission bolts and engine mounts?
Where are engine lift points (if any)?
Any experience to ease the removal would be greatly appreciated.
Yes, it will be my car and I want to do it right.
Thanks for the advice, already got the MB WIS. The manual is very detailed but somewhat hard to navigate, probably need to get used to it.
Any updates I should do on the engine to correct issues, like oil cooler seals? Is there a list somewhere on line with recommended updates for the engine?
If this is going to be a homey car, do yourself a huge favor--subscribe to MB WIS and get all the factory documentation to do the job correctly
yes
yes
easy
lift the engine cover and you will see the four points
Hi Plutoe,
Got all the connections off the engine and it's almost ready to come out.
Having difficulty taking off the exhaust and getting to some of the bell housing bolts.
There is a short piece of exhaust with the cat, does it come out with the engine? Looks hard to get the top connection next to the turbo.
Some of the transmission bolts that are on the top I cant reach, any tricks to this?
Its been long years since I had to remove transmission on Oldsmobile, but still remember the trick to get top transmission bolts.
Wobble, or UV joint behind the socket and 3 feet of extensions .. give or take a foot.
Good luck.
In the manual the engine and transmission come out as one unit together with the sub chassis. I was hoping to just get the engine out from the top. I have all kinds of swivel extensions but they pack these engines in today.
Few weeks back I purchased a 2012 R350 Bluetec with seized engine. The car has 96K and the owner described the seizure similar to other descriptions elsewhere on this forum. Driving on highway, hearing a knock from the engine and then stopped. The body and interior are in nice shape and I like challenges so next thing is to take the engine out and find out what happed. The weather in New York has been cold and the car does not fit in the garage so I have been delayed with engine removal. Just got few items off the engine.
I have the MB service manual but would like to get advice on few items:
I was told the engine can come out from the top with a engine hoist, is that correct?
If so, the radiator, radiator support, intercooler and front bumper should come off?
How easy is to get to the transmission bolts and engine mounts?
Where are engine lift points (if any)?
Any experience to ease the removal would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Renato
Nice rig.Thumbs up.Keep us updated on your progress.
Yes, the engine can come out the top. The lift points are on the left side of the engine (MB considers the USA Drivers' side the left side). The front point is just aft of the fuel pump, and the rear point is next to the turbocharger. You'll likely need to use a load leveler that you can tilt backwards, because the engine sits underneath the cowl.
There is a very long thread on Grassroots Motorsports' website where a guy is rebuilding an R63 AMG engine, and he opted to drop the engine out the bottom, but he mentions several times that the he could have taken it out the top as well but that requires removing the radiator and part of the front sheet metal. The hood does have a service position, but I normally remove the hood when I'm pulling any engine, just to get a little extra room for the hoist and avoid any damage.
If you have the WIS, then the procedure will be documented in there in great detail.
No update from OP, but in the mean time I took on replacing my 642 engine. My plan was to unbolt transmission and pull the engine only, but broken rod jammed engine and could not turn converter for unbolting.
Pulling the engine with good equipment is piece of cake. Disconnecting wire harness and fuel lines took me about 20 hr, but I was taking my time.
No update from OP, but in the mean time I took on replacing my 642 engine. My plan was to unbolt transmission and pull the engine only, but broken rod jammed engine and could not turn converter for unbolting.
Pulling the engine with good equipment is piece of cake. Disconnecting wire harness and fuel lines took me about 20 hr, but I was taking my time.
Kajtek1 - How many miles were on your 642 V6 when it decided to chuck the rod? Just curious.
183k, but the rod bent after sucking some water. We still drove with shaking engine for about 2000 miles before rod decided to "see outside word" On last picture, unfortunately in shade you can zoom to see the rod on #6
Nice work. Given the lift you have, I guess coming out the top was the only way really. Still, the way you did it works just fine if you have a hoist.
I much prefer to drop them out the bottom, but my lift works better for that. Picture below is an E39 5 Series, but they're all the same; unbolt the subframe from the chassis, disconnect the wiring and then lift the car up with the lift, leaving the drivetrain on the floor.
Every job can be done in several ways and having different tools you sure have to choose different options.
My son works for high-end car dismantlers. They remove engines only via the bottom and having special tables to drop the engine, it sure can be done in couple of hours.
But they don't worry about putting the axle alignment back and they just cut the harness.
I am in process of transferring attachments from old engine to rebuild one. I found rebuild kit for turbo, new starter, idler pulley, cleaning intake flaps and EGR,
Good I don't have to go to work every day as just getting packages with parts take part of the day, not to mention dealing with stripped bolt heads on turbo.
Broke my square adapter trying to take old head off.
The kit has 2 bearing sleeves, so since Garret unified most of the turbo, chances are 1 of them will fit.
Turn out the small play I had is normal and my turbo was in pretty good shape.
But now good turbo is even better with new wearables and sot removed.
01-16-2017, 09:17 PM
