vettdvr

I haven't torqued mine either,, shame on me.

However for the first change I painted a white stripe with pointers on the cap to match the base. Everytime I put it on I lube the seals then tighten to the pointers match.

UMMM getting older and lazy.. but it does work for me and I always check for leaks for 2 days after any oil change.

AndyBenz

OK quick question my dad's 2002 E320 drain plug is freaking stuck on there, Is the drain plug reverse thread? How hard did you guys try to remove the bolt first time? What did you use? I just couldn't make it turn.

Just to double check, it is counter clockwise to unscrew it right?

Thanks.

vettdvr

Righty tighty lefty loosie. The plug should turn counterclockwise looking at the head end.

Use a 6 Point socket and long wrench it will loosen. DON'T use a 12 pt wrench and slip.

AndyBenz

Finally got it loose.

Thanks.

I hope my dad doesn't notice the small crack on engine cover LOL

skiahh

OK a couple of additions for the 09 Bluetec. Once you get the plastic engine compartment protectors off (it's just easier to take them both off), you'll see what looks like a transition fluid pan right under the bell housing. A bit farther aft is the real transmission pan. They're both black. The smaller one closer to the front of the car... and literally right under the bell housing where the tranny mates to the engine is the oil pan. The drain plug is also black and faces the FRONT of the car, on the passenger side front corner of the pan. Once you find that, it's relatively straightforward.

Make sure you open the oil fill cover (which is on the left side of the engine as you look at it) before you raise the car. The filter housing is under the topside engine protector, but that just comes off by gently pulling.

Drain the oil, replace the plug and lower the car. Remove the filter - I used a rubber strap filter wrench - and, to be thorough, remove the residual oil in the filter base pan. I used a turkey baster for this and got 95% of it out. Pour some oil into the filter housing, install the filter, tighten back down and fill with oil: 9 quarts total. Check for leaks and replace engine protectors top and bottom. Reset computer and you're good for another 10K.

It helps to have a lift and oil collection system, especially when you're draining 9 qts! I have access to the Auto Hobby Shop on base, so it's pretty easy. The hardest part was finding the drain plug!

E365

February 2003 build E320....

I found a Mann extended service/polyester fleece filter (HU7185X), in stock, at my local NAPA for $16.99. Kind of suprised at that. Another option if you don't have a dealer nearby or don't want to order one. I bought a Fram filter (CH8481) for $10.99 just to check out and compare to the Mann; see picture below. Both the Mann and Fram came with 5 o-rings even though it needed 4. I pulled out a non-fleece Mahle which was actually starting to buckle and warp. Never seen that before, but I also don't know the mileage on this oil change interval. I'm sure the Fram would be just fine for a non-extended run in a pinch, but I'd rather mail-order a bunch of Mahles or Manns for $7 each like I do with my BMW.

I was also glad that the Mercedes branded filter wrench that I bought 7 years ago for my BMW 318ti (M44 engine) fit the E320 I was working on! Nice suprise.

Bought an 8 quart (2 gallon) jug of Citgo SynDurance 5w-40 at the local farm supply store for $23.15 ($2.89/qt.) Nice to dump the full jug in and forget about it. Yeah, it's not 229.5 (.3?) oil, but this thing has over 200,000 miles, so we're kind of beyond the **** warranty spec oil. My 205,000+ mile BMW get just Valvoline synthetic blend and UOAs have been as good as they can be, even without using BMW LL-01 oil it's suppose to have.

Also put in STP air filters from Autozone for $12.99 each. Was actually suprised at the decent quality! I have been buying Mann and Mahle filters of all sorts for about a decade and this seems just as good. The filter media seems very high quality, as does the rubber gasket. It also had an metal "backbone" piece to help the filter hold its shape and not sag since it's so long.

Also used my Pela 6000 oil extractor that I LOVE. Been using it for years. BMWs, Mercedes, small engines, coolant, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, everything.

Fabboi

still don't know why this thread isn't sticky yet...

And i must say that is the "best" fram filter i have seen so far compared to their other products but i would still never trust a fram filter.

E365

Yeah, I'm leary of Fram filters in general as well, but I figure a cartiridge filter such as these are probably more safe. There's no check valve to fail and the cardboard endcaps that people complain about in their canister filters about are non-existant in the cartridge (this is plastic). It's basically just the filter media. Still no reason to pay $11 for a Fram when you can mail-order Manns or Mahles for under $7.

vettdvr

The NAPA is the Mann filter and AZ also sells the same filter. If you use the Fram filter it does not meet the filtration specs for the fleece filter and you will have to change oil & filter way sooner. Stay with the Mann filter at the extra cost, save your engine.

Dooby357

Use to change the oil all the time on my BMWs, got lazy and sent my MB to the Stealership on Friday for Schedule C at 0730 AM. Called back at 0500 PM since they close at 0600 PM. SA tells me vehicle will not be ready until Tuesday since they had cars from THURSDAY that they had not gotten too!! Definitely will be doing my own fluid changes in the future. Great Write-Up!!!

@ Vettedvr - how you liking the Vette, I got rid of my C6 last winter due to a move. Looking into a used ZO6 next

vettdvr

I bought my C5 New and it has been extremely reliable and great driving car. I have sorta been looking at the C6 lately but found out the C7 will be out in 24 months. So now on hold. Have to buy the wife a new car first, then the vet. Held off on the vet because I bought a plane last year. "it is a little faster than the vet."

MercFiveHundred

I've always bought 0w40 M1 oil at Walmart and the Mann filter at the dealership. Went to the dealer yesterday and they said they dont sell 0w40 - just 5w40 @ about $6/quart I'm paying around $7/quart for 0w40. Since i get my filter at the dealership, should i just buy the 5w40 there? or should i stick to the 0w40? Got 170K on the odo...

vettdvr

IF the oil is the same spec for the car sure buy it at the dealer. Make sure it meets the spec though even at the dealer.

MercFiveHundred

I think it's the new Valvoline dealerships are now using meet specs (as i've read on other posts). I sort of only trust mobil and castrol. Mostly because the synthetic oils came out with these companies first - or at least i only saw these two companies have these on the shelf 10 years ago.

Valvoline has the 300,000 mile guarantee which will give me another 130k but not shure when i have to sign up. Reminds me of the movie Tommy Boy with Chris Farley about having a guarantee on the box. LOL

I guess the only way to be sure is to do two oil analyses.

vettdvr

IF it isn't on the MB approved lubricant list, NEW with MB spec on the label I would not bet MY engine that it was ok even with a 300,000 warranty.

The warranty is only good if you have the oil professionally changed and on a frequency that meets the oil company specs. If you run 10,000+ on the MB this could exceed the warranty for the oil. My bet is they NEVER pay off on those warranties.

GET IT IN WRITING that it meets MB spec. IF not written why chance it.

2slowcdi

In reading this , I always remove my oil filter first so the old oil can drain down to the oil pan and drain out as well.

vettdvr

I never gave this a thought> I always pull the filter first on all vehicles and planes I work on .

2slowcdi

After reading that some people changed the filter afterwards , so I thought it would be worth giving them a heads up to get as much of the old oil out as possible.

vettdvr

That was a good point. I sort a take it for granted. I started in 1962 changine oil and always pull the filter first so there is no oil draining in the pan when the plug is installed.

But after those few years do it by habit and never give it a thought.

2slowcdi

So you would remember the canister oil filters on the Chev 327's?

vettdvr

I remember canister filters on 55 Mopars, 53 cadillac, 55 chevies, and 55 plymoth flat head 6 w/o filters.

I also worked on oil bath air cleaners.

I also saw a brand new 348 chevy engine in 1958 that later became the 409.

thunderbirl

I just did my W211 for the first time. Having used the Mityvac 7201 on my W164 where I'd had no problem with removing the oil, I was surprised that I couldn't really figure out where to position the tube. I seem to have had a little problem with shoving the plastic tube too far down into the engine. When it was slurping at 5 liters I knew something was wrong. It didn't seem really intuitive as to where to stop, but eventually I got it at what seemed to be the right place - and pulled out about 9.5 quarts! (It started just over the top of the dipstick mark.)

For the record, I marked the spot that worked well and found that I measured 37 inches from the end to the top of the dipstick tube. I've marked the plastic tube.

Ten pumps on the 7201 gets you about 3.5 liters. I ended up having to repeat a couple times - especially with sucking air!

As to the oil filter wrench, my trusty "B" sized 14 flat wrench worked perfectly. Some of the fancier "B" size with more little indents, didn't grab. No need for anything fancy.

O-rings on the filter were pretty obvious. Only used three of the five provided by Mann.

When I refilled (8.5 quarts of M1 0w40 down the filter hole!), I ended up exactly at 1/2 way on the dipstick.

Reset the service indicator and cleaned it all up.

Really appreciate the info I've learned here.

Thanks.

NBDT

Just received the Mityvac 7201 that I ordered. I'm planning on changing the oil in my 04 E500 this weekend.

mtc804

Thanks for the instructions. I always brought my to the dealer for oil change but not anymore. Does anyone have instruction for changing the air filter?

kosmo

its easy, took me about 15mins the 1st time.
pull the smaller cover off, then the clip at the rear , then pull the main cover off. You will see a series of smalle screws. there's 1 filter on each side.