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E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:06 AM   #1
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DIY Front Brake Job 2006 E350

I know there are there are other threads with info on brake pad and rotor change, but a lot of them are old, and some of the pictures are gone, so I thought I'd re-do them. So this is step by step, including disabling SBC. Some people may do it differently, but this is how I did it.

EDIT: There are some helpful posts with tips from other members in this thread. Please read the entire thread before using this as a guide.


First step, make sure the wheels are straight, deactivate the lift alarm, pop the hood, and then get out of the car and lock it. Put your keys away where no one will unexpectedly hit a button.

Next step is to disconnect the SBC unit. You do this by pulling up on the lock, and then you can pull the connector off. I stuffed a rag in between the unit and the connector, just to be safe.
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:09 AM   #2
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The next thing I did was remove the cover, exposing the brake master cylinder. I took the cover off during the whole brake job:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:13 AM   #3
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Remove the tire. As you can see, I have the 4 piston type calipers. The pads are held in by two pins with a clip in between. I used a small drill bit to knock out the pins (front to back).

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:14 AM   #4
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I then used a screw driver to pry out the pads:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:17 AM   #5
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Great Info!
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:20 AM   #6
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There are two bolts on the back side which hold the caliper in place. I believe they were 13mm. You really have to get some leverage to break them free. Then the caliper just slides off:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:22 AM   #7
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I used zip ties to secure the caliper:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:25 AM   #8
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Next step, remove the rotor. There is a torx screw (torx 40 I think) that holds on the rotor. Once you take this off, the rotor should come off. Mine was rusted on, so it took some penetrating fluid, and some pounding with a rubber mallet:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:26 AM   #9
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Finally got it off and cleaned up underneath:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:29 AM   #10
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Next step I did was to re-set the pistons in the caliper. I hook up a line to the bleeder and open it up (11mm wrench) while I use a clamp to re-set the pistons. You can see how the pistons are re-set flush. Don't forget to do both sides.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:30 AM   #11
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Next, clean the back side of the rotor, and re-install. Don't forget some blue locktite on the torx screw.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:32 AM   #12
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Re-install the calipers (don't forget the locktite). Clean the front of the rotor.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:33 AM   #13
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Here are my brake pads for the front. Also got some anti-squeel paste, and of course, a new sensor (this side does not have the sensor). You can see from the pad comparison that I was overdue for a brake job :

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:36 AM   #14
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Spread paste on the back of the pads using a finger. I used one packet for each corner; half a packet for each pad. Pads should slide easily into caliper.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:37 AM   #15
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Re-install pins and spring clamp. I used a nail set to set the pins.

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:38 AM   #16
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Last step: Re-install the wheel. Don't forget to torque to the correct specs; 96 Foot Pounds for me:

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Old 08-01-2010, 12:41 AM   #17
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When complete, re-connect the SBC unit, and then get your keys and start the car. I held down the brake pedal as I started. No warning lights. Everything seems to be working fine. Don't forget to top off the brake fluid if needed, and to close the cover on the master cylinder and replace the plastic cover.

Hope that can help someone. The garage was over 100 degrees when I did this, so it took a longer as I kept taking breaks to hydrate.

Also, please excuse the cleanliness of the car. It isn't normally like that, but it is particularly dirty right now.

I also changed the rear pads which I will post up in another thread. I did not change the rotors though, as they were ok. Here is the link to that:

http://www.mbworld.org/forums/e-clas...ml#post4185101
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Old 08-01-2010, 07:20 AM   #18
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Would you have been able to remove the pads from the calipers without removing the pins if you had removed the calipers first and removed the pads from the bottom instead of the top of the calipers? Sorry if that seems like a dumb question but I have not done this on a Mercedes, only American cars.
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:08 PM   #19
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A Coupla Questions ...

1. What is the significance of locking the car at the outset? Is it merely a safeguard against anyone's opening a door or mashing on the brake pedal or otherwise sabotaging your project? Can the job be done just as completely without locking the doors? Is locking the doors essential to the project? I do not know how to disable the hood-release alarm ... that's why I'm asking this.

2. Why do you spread the anti-squeak compound across the entire surface of the backing plates? Isn't it enough to spread it just over the contact surfaces?

3. Is it SOP to reuse the pad pins? I've done similar replacement projects on motorcycles. Using new pins each time is SOP.

Excellent reports. I tip my hat to you for taking the time and effort to photograph your work and post a most informative report for all the rest of us on the forum.

Is there a way your posts can be permanently installed on the forum? Otherwise, by the time I need them, they may be long gone.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky View Post
Would you have been able to remove the pads from the calipers without removing the pins if you had removed the calipers first and removed the pads from the bottom instead of the top of the calipers? Sorry if that seems like a dumb question but I have not done this on a Mercedes, only American cars.
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No. The pins go through a loop on the top of the pads. If you were just changing pads though, you would not have to remove the caliper which would make a pad exchange pretty easy.
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Old 08-01-2010, 01:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heatwave View Post
1. What is the significance of locking the car at the outset? Is it merely a safeguard against anyone's opening a door or mashing on the brake pedal or otherwise sabotaging your project? Can the job be done just as completely without locking the doors? Is locking the doors essential to the project? I do not know how to disable the hood-release alarm ... that's why I'm asking this.
I like to lock the car as a safety measure. In reality, if you leave the doors closed, you don't even have to unhook the SBC.

Quote:
2. Why do you spread the anti-squeak compound across the entire surface of the backing plates? Isn't it enough to spread it just over the contact surfaces?
Yes. I've just always spread it across the back and the sides. Just habit I guess.

Quote:
3. Is it SOP to reuse the pad pins? I've done similar replacement projects on motorcycles. Using new pins each time is SOP.
That's a very good question. I'm not sure if it's SOP. Mine didn't seem damaged, so I'm not too worried about using them again.

Quote:
Excellent reports. I tip my hat to you for taking the time and effort to photograph your work and post a most informative report for all the rest of us on the forum.

Is there a way your posts can be permanently installed on the forum? Otherwise, by the time I need them, they may be long gone.[/COLOR]
Thanks. As for the posts, that is one of the issues that I had with searching through some old threads. These should stay out there as long as the pictures remain on my photo bucket account. If I ever delete those, I will put the pictures somewhere else and relink them.

One more note about this change: I am only going to keep this car for another couple of months. I was hoping to avoid the brake job, but as you can see from my old brake pad, I really couldn't go any longer.
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:35 PM   #22
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One more question, please: If you were not replacing your rotors, would it have been necessary to remove the calipers to reset the pistons?

Put another way: could you have used something--maybe wooden construction wedges driven between the old pads and the rotor--to drive the pistons back into the calipers, then slip (pry) the old pads out, slip the new pads in, run the pins home, and avoid having to remove the calipers?
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heatwave View Post
One more question, please: If you were not replacing your rotors, would it have been necessary to remove the calipers to reset the pistons?

Put another way: could you have used something--maybe wooden construction wedges driven between the old pads and the rotor--to drive the pistons back into the calipers, then slip (pry) the old pads out, slip the new pads in, run the pins home, and avoid having to remove the calipers?
I believe you could, but I've never done it. I suppose you could use some kind of a wood or plastic wedge.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
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I believe you could, but I've never done it. I suppose you could use some kind of a wood or plastic wedge.
you can get a brake piston spreader. It does the job quite well in resetting dual piston calipers.
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:02 PM   #25
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revstriker, thanks a ton for the brilliant write-up and great pictures! very helpful
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:02 PM
 
 
 
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