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E-Class (W212) 2010-present: E 350, E 550

     
Old 06-04-2015, 09:17 PM
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How to Replace Cabin Air Filter - W212

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Old 08-21-2012, 11:21 PM   #1
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How to Replace Cabin Air Filter - W212

Hi All,

Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.

Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)

The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:

1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.

Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.

And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:40 AM   #2
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Thanks for tyhe write up ,pics would be great but thanks anyway on behalf of others who like to tacke such DIY jobs
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:52 AM   #3
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Great job
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:27 AM   #4
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Amazing how complicated MB made it and the Americans and Asians have been making it a one simple or no tool, 10 minute tops project for over a decade.
Over-engineered?
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:19 PM   #5
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It is a pain in the *** to change. You need to really push hard in an upward direction on it to get it to seat while locking the clip. If you have any whistle noise in your cabin it will be a lose cabin filter. MB has had this dumb design for at least 10 years. My '04 E500 was the same.
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Old 12-06-2014, 02:51 PM   #6
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El Cid: This is nothing compared to changing a headlight bulb on an Infiniti... which involves removing the entire front bumper cover, grille, wheel well cover, a few mechanical components, the entire headlight assembly. THEN you can change the bulb and try to put everything back together. It's about a 2.5 hr job.

I don't know that changing the E-Class air filter is all that bad. Step-wise it's no more complicated than changing the air filter in my Infiniti, which is located in the glove box, but requires removing the glove box, cassette deck, a few wiring harnesses, etc. What makes this job a pain on the E-Class is the location. Trying to work on anything in the footwell generally sucks. Still simpler than changing it on my M45 though.
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:11 PM   #7
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I always have the whistle noise, that means it's loose? How do you get it to not whistle?

I get the whistle noise at 3 bars or higher on the fan setting
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Old 12-06-2014, 11:42 PM   #8
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Buy the improved Mann design filter with the foam seating element instead of the compression flap. Your whistle will be gone. I can't stand driving a luxury car with noises like that.
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Old 12-07-2014, 01:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEY08 View Post
Buy the improved Mann design filter with the foam seating element instead of the compression flap. Your whistle will be gone. I can't stand driving a luxury car with noises like that.
The one I got was cuk 29 005 by Mann filter, is there a different one? Could you give me the part number so I know which one to get next time? I've learned to deal with it but know what you mean, it's annoying and really shouldn't be there. I'll probably change it again before warm a/c weather comes back. The moldy smell is also a bit embarrassing.
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Old 12-07-2014, 09:30 PM   #10
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CUK 29 005 charcoal is the one I use as well. You really need to push hard to compress the foam and lock it into place.
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:26 PM   #11
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How often do you have to change one of these? is it by miles or years?
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Old 12-08-2014, 03:54 PM   #12
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The cabin filter is on the B schedule, so every 20K miles. I usually do it on that schedule which for me is bi-annually. It is the only filter now, so if you want to change it more regularly due to a harsh environment (dust) I would do it. In the past there were two filters, side by side at the glove box and then an additional one at the intake in the engine bay, so maybe the protection was better.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:00 PM   #13
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Thanks. That means I will not have to change it for about 7 years. I put about 2 to 3,000 a year on the car
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #14
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Ha! I would still do it every two years. I assume(hope) you at least change your oil annually.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:25 PM   #15
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El Cid - you'll be surprised...It's just as if not more difficult to replace one on my 2001 Acura RL which is behind the glovebox.
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:25 PM   #16
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CAR IS ALMOST A YEAR OLD AND HAS ALMOST 2,000 iT WILL GO IN AFTER THE 1ST OF THE YEAR FOR ITS 1ST OIL CHANGE.
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:05 PM   #17
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Way easier on my old 2007 BMW 550I, remove two plastic clips and housings just under the windshield on the outside of the car and put in the new filters. 10 min tops
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:41 PM   #18
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I did the replacement on mine at 30K after 10 months. It was pretty painless, except for putting the small clips back on. The parts guy told me most don't even bother with putting them back on but as **** as I am, I did anyway.
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:11 AM   #19
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Road debris hit my headlight passenger headlight broke the clear plastic outer lens can replace the entire assembly myself? This is on a 2011 E350 4 door sedan. Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:51 PM   #20
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I really wish MB would make this really easier... my wife's honda pilot is easy breezy compare to MB.... Well, it is still not worth paying somebody to do it...
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:53 PM   #21
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Cabin Air Filters

Quote:
Originally Posted by vegasCorp View Post
Hi All,

Just got done replacing the cabin filter with a little help from one of the threads on here. Thought I would post a more detailed "how to". Its easy, relatively quick, so don't pay someone to do it.

Tools needed:
Torx T25 screwdriver
needle nose pliers
flat head screw driver (optional to help pry "c" clamps)

The cabin air filter is located in the passenger footwell right above your left foot if you were sitting in the passenger seat. To access it, just remove the cabin trim right below the glove box:

1. remove (3) Torx T25 screws right along the bottom of the glove box hinge area
2. Carefully pull the trim down from the front. Don't pull all the way because you need to disconnect 2 wires first before fully removing it.
3. Use needle nose pliers or if you have dextrous fingers, carefully remove the footwell light connector on the right, then the left hand side is a sensor of some sort. Remove that too.
4. Once both wires are removed, carefully move the cabin trim down further and lift it out. It will be tucked behind the forward footwell carpet.
5. Once out, you will notice a white sliding plastic connector on the bottom of the cabin filter. The filter sits vertically with the squared off plastic at the bottom and it is roughly at a 45 degree angle to the center console.
6. Slide the plastic piece toward you until it releases.
7. Now you have to remove 2 small "C" clamps on each end of the filter before you slide it out. These 2 small metal clamps might need a little coaxing so carefully use a flat head screwdriver to loosen them. Be careful not to bend them, just pop them off. Also, careful with the rear clamp so that it doesn't pop off and go down behind the carpet.
8. Now you can easily slide the filter out. Just pull it straight down.
9. Remove the sliding plastic white piece and put it on the new filter.

Ok Time to reverse the process and finish up!
10. Slide the new filter in and slide the plastic white connector to secure the filter.
11. Replace the "C" clamps.
12. Now the filter is secured, put the cabin trim back in. Tuck it behind the carpet, and push it up.
13. Reconnect the footwell light and sensor wires. Close the door once to test the light.
14. Push the trim back up and screw in the (3) torx screws.

And you are done! Turn the car on, run the A/C to test.
Good guidance here and I thank you.
My dealer wanted $61 CDN after club discount for the OEM filter. A MANN at the local parts guys was $30.
What I don't get is why MB cannot design their HVAC systems to make this a simple job. Even the techs ***** about how awkward it is working in a black hole at the end of your reach upside down and over your head. Must be to generate labour dollars on top of exorbitant parts prices.
And those two stupid metal clips one of which is over a hole in the sheet metal? Give me a break!
I put duct tape over the hole while I was working on things.
I am going to suggest to their product people at MBC in Toronto they send somebody over to their local Toyota dealer and see what a 5 minute fiddle it is to change the cabin filter on a Matrix.
Off to the Chiropractor to get my back straight!
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Old 01-25-2015, 03:53 PM   #22
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:51 AM   #23
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Thanks VegasCorp

Great DIY. I'm 58 and partially disabled and had no trouble at all. I did replace the small C clamps; I noticed the end snugged in tighter when I did. The one further away went on in one snap too. Easy job.
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:16 PM   #24
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Is it the same process on the C218?
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:26 AM   #25
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I didnt notice if any one added that the connector on the duct temp sensor (the connector on your left when lowering the kick panel) is very fragile. Dont pull it by its wires or the pins will break.
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