GrepAwk

Does anybody have additional advice for what to do/check/replace/repair or upgrade while I have the Valve Covers off the engine? I have an oil leak around the coils (both sides) that I believe is leaking down to the bell housing and out toward the transmission.

I purchased new VC gaskets.

- supercharger gaskets?
- throttle body items?
- other stuff in the Valley?

- will I have to pull off the fuel rail(s) to get to the Vc gaskets?

- check valve clearances?
- replace any other gaskets beside the stock VC gaskets?
- any hand forming if gaskets with RTV required?

While I am in the neighborhood...

rockthemullet

Valve cover gaskets is like a 45 minute job, easy peasy. I would probably call this the least intrusive of any engine work. My only suggestion is to cover the manifold ports with something when you pull the driver side surge tank... I actually killed a motor with an M6 washer when I didn't cover them.

GrepAwk

Thank you for the advice.

I especially liked the line "the supercharger never has to come off."

From bird's eye view, it looks pretty straight forward and worth the risk. I will make sip urge i do it when the forecast calls for clear skies and zero chance for falling m6 washers.

GrepAwk

I also noticed a uniform coat of oil spreading out on the tops of the coil plugs. I suspected the vcg but maybe you can tell me if there is a separate gasket ABOVE the spark plug coils that would allow oil to pass through.

rockthemullet

Nothing should be up there except possibly the vacuum lines coming out of the top of the valve covers and pulling into the throttle body. If these are disconnected or one is cut, I suppose it COULD mist oil. Aside from that, it's probably the valve cover gasket leak combined with turbulent air in the engine bay

clsjack

Use only MB gaskets or you will be doing the job twice.
Ask me how I know.
Good time to do your plugs while you're in there.

GrepAwk

Finally getting around to this. I have found that the leaks slow down when my oil level is 1/2 quart down. Doesn't make sense, but at least it's not dribbling on the garage floor now.

I have MB gaskets ready to go. I could not find FIBG from MB. I see a lot of Toyota spec FIBG on the Internet. Do you buy from a MB dealer?

Also, any torque specs for the Valve Cover bolts?

biker349

i am sure there are torque specs and possibly need to replace old bolts. better check this out before you start.

GrepAwk

I just used estimated torque that I figured would be good enough and not strip the aluminum. We shall see how well it seals.

One note of caution about the small screws attaching the small breather covers that are on top of the valve covers; those screws are very weak. I stripped the head off one just from turning it through the gasket material. Hopefully there's enough gasket material around and in the hole so that I don't get a vacuum leak. It's not worth taking off in my opinion because some of the other cover bolts that go all the way down to the heads are holding it down too. But definitely will have to fix the next time I have to do the VCGs.

GrepAwk

Thanks also for the advice on changing the plugs. It was time. Used the closest matching NGK to the stock specs I could find.

Also replaced one coil that looked oil-soaked. Didn't notice any effect good or bad. Now I have a used spare.

I did not pull the supercharger, so will save that gasket for another year.

I was surprised by how much oil is sumped up inside the heads in various pockets when the engine is turned off. It just sits up there. I expect that's by design. Probably helps get oil to the valve train fast at startup time before the oil pump has built pressure.

I didn't check for any backlash or clearance. Just ood and ahd and bolted it back together. No new oil leaks so far.