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Seems like majority of you guys just want to see this poor fellow's project fail............so as to pad yourself in the back and say "I was right......" the guy made a horrible decision purchasing a wrecked S550, but geeeez, the car doesn't even look as bad as some of you guys are making it seem. Let a qualified person assess the damages first....... before the "i said it so" crew start feasting on him.
Just to be clear, this is the fella whose judgment you're betting on:
Planning a rave? 100% confident. Fixing a totaled $100,000 Mercedes with a rubber mallet...maybe not so much.
Can't really take a mallet to COMAND. Well you can, but just once.
You know, I think you're right on this one. I've tried the hammer approach on some electronics, and after one hit it either worked fine or never again. . .
You know, I think you're right on this one. I've tried the hammer approach on some electronics, and after one hit it either worked fine or never again. . .
Depends. If the dealer hits COMAND with a mallet they charge $1159. Indies charge a little less.
Given the way it's sitting and the one pic showing COMAND with a "Device Not Found" error message, before you spend any money or much time, make sure the thing runs and the systems check out. Can't really take a mallet to COMAND. Well you can, but just once.
If you can, Ensure that the key is still on the car. Someone stole mine while it was in the wrecking yard. At least they had the courtesy to put the ziptie that held it back on the steering wheel!
I'm glad I got one with the damage it has. Because I had no clue the S550 had so many electronic modules back there. So much for it being like that civic I had! You have to be very careful.
Btw, if I disconnect the battery, will I have to input a code on startup?
If you can, Ensure that the key is still on the car. Someone stole mine while it was in the wrecking yard. At least they had the courtesy to put the ziptie that held it back on the steering wheel!
I'm glad I got one with the damage it has. Because I had no clue the S550 had so many electronic modules back there. So much for it being like that civic I had! You have to be very careful.
Btw, if I disconnect the battery, will I have to input a code on startup?
Oh crap, hadn't thought about the stuff in the trunk. That deck lid didn't close. All of that stuff was exposed to weather. Yes, disconnect the negative terminal and make sure the amp and stuff on the left side are totally dry before starting the car. I'd disconnect the various harnesses and let air get to everything. Amp is over $1k on EBay and is the master controller for COMAND.
1) Jack it up and check for underbody frame damage. Look at the structure behind the rear axle.
2) get a key made.
3) put it on a trickle charger, there are 2 batteries, one is in the trunk.
4) scan it. Find out about the low suspension height and the current message on the dashboard display.
5) measure the wheelbase on both sides.
6) get it over to your friend with a laser guided frame straightener.
You want to straighten it before fussing with any of the bodywork.
Unless you're just going to leave it bent, which will save money in the short term, but will affect any possible resale.
7) once you have an idea of everything it needs, you can decide how best to proceed.
1) Jack it up and check for underbody frame damage. Look at the structure behind the rear axle.
2) get a key made.
3) put it on a trickle charger, there are 2 batteries, one is in the trunk.
4) scan it. Find out about the low suspension height and the current message on the dashboard display.
5) measure the wheelbase on both sides.
6) get it over to your friend with a laser guided frame straightener.
You want to straighten it before fussing with any of the bodywork.
Unless you're just going to leave it bent, which will save money in the short term, but will affect any possible resale.
7) once you have an idea of everything it needs, you can decide how best to proceed.
Yes, of course. Great game plan. And it's pretty hard to hang parts...tail lamps, bumpers... on a unibody that isn't square. There's not a lot of tolerance in a Mercedes for panel gaps.
Once there's a realistic appraisal of the damage and whatever repairs the body (and the rest of the car) needs to be put back in retail condition, determine if the car's repaired value with a salvage title warrants the expense. Paying $12k for the car shipped vs the actual value of a repaired 2008 base S550 doesn't leave much room.
1) Jack it up and check for underbody frame damage. Look at the structure behind the rear axle.
2) get a key made.
3) put it on a trickle charger, there are 2 batteries, one is in the trunk.
4) scan it. Find out about the low suspension height and the current message on the dashboard display.
5) measure the wheelbase on both sides.
6) get it over to your friend with a laser guided frame straightener.
You want to straighten it before fussing with any of the bodywork.
Unless you're just going to leave it bent, which will save money in the short term, but will affect any possible resale.
7) once you have an idea of everything it needs, you can decide how best to proceed.
Underbody is straight. Both batteries have juice, not sure if enough to start the engine.
So far I need:
1. A key
2. x2 Reinforcement holders
3. Reinforcement bar
4. Rear Bumper
5. x3 Rear backup Sensors(Unless I can salvage the original ones, it looks promising)
6. Get the locking mechanism lip pulled back 1.5-2"
7. Need to get the two divets on each 1/4 panels repaired, that the last gentleman put there to make it seem like the trunk area was crumpled.
You cannot tell if the unibody is straight by looking at it. It has to be measured. Step one.
Nobody deliberately (and symmetrically) creased both quarters. They're creased because the impact of the accident compressed the rear unibody structure.
Took the interior paneling off to expose the electronics.
More electronics then I thought there was.
Look how everything is straight besides that top lip where the lock latch it.
This side took the least damage.
Removed the tail lights.
Took off the Tailights by undoing x3 nuts.
Left has nearly no damage. Though it took the most.
Took the Keyless-Go Module off to get to the two bolts holding the bumper.
To get to the bolts on on the right side I had to get the that module out of the way. took two bolts and a nut.
Do you see how 3 of the sensors got intentionally pushed in? Funny how there is no matching damage on the bumper... Insurance fraud much? Let me know Mike.
Took the side moldings off. They are not damaged.
My current collection of parts that I plan to replace after body repair.
Finally took the bumper off to expose to the reinforcement.
Notice the lack of damage to the unibody.
The reinforcement supports took the majority of the damage.
Notice how to unibody is strait besides the lip that was moved forward 2".
This support was difficult to take off.
I'm not at the point of removing the Reinforcement supports. This should be easier than the support bar.
Looks like the second owner took it to an Indy shop.
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-08-2016 at 06:57 PM.
The impact absorbers are rated for 15mph. Once they're collapsed like that the remaining force of the impact was transmitted into the rear frame rails ( where the absorbers mount) and taken up by the crumple zones further forward (right about even with where the quarters are creased)
looks like the bumper shock absorbers did what they were supposed to do and took most of the damage. replacement ones come with the new reinforcement bar from Mercedes. Part number is 2216100120. Online cost is $346.50. You can probably find it cheaper on ebay.
New parking sensors are $55.50 each, part number 2215420417
looks like the bumper shock absorbers did what they were supposed to do and took most of the damage. replacement ones come with the new reinforcement bar from Mercedes. Part number is 2216100120. Online cost is $346.50. You can probably find it cheaper on ebay.
New parking sensors are $55.50 each, part number 2215420417
Not exactly. If the absorbers are completely compromised any excess energy got transmitted into the structure behind them. How much energy will show up in the laser measure. The car needs a pull. Could be minor or significant but the measure always comes first when there are indications for unibody damage. Completely compromised impact absorbers and distorted panel alignment are both indications.
Note too how the reinforcement bar is bent down and under. Like I said, the car submarined underneath and pulled the unibody downward. That's why the rear droops, the trunk isn't aligned, the rear cover is deflected outward at the quarters and the quarters are creased.
Believing anything else created that specific and easily recognizable damage pattern is wishful thinking I'm afraid.
You cannot tell if the unibody is straight by looking at it. It has to be measured. Step one.
Nobody deliberately (and symmetrically) creased both quarters. They're creased because the impact of the accident compressed the rear unibody structure.
I suppose the damage to the sensors was part of the accident aswell then?
If you closely look at the damage you will see that in fact it was.
There is not droop in the car, just currently in the suspension.
The creases are blatantly separate damage. I think the guy drove it under 18mph a stationary object. Since the original impact was not great enough, they made it look like there was more damage by hitting both 1/4 panels without using the cars momentum. To add to the damage they hit all four sensors. 3 of which show a mark.
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 03-08-2016 at 07:18 PM.
03-28-2016, 07:21 PM
Hmmm
