2009 S550 4Matic Rotors
#1
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Thread Starter
2009 S550 4Matic Rotors
Hi guys,
my dad has a 2009 s550 with barely 22,000 miles in 7 years. The brake pads are almost finished and therefore the rotors have lines on 'em. The car was serviced by the local MB dealership who told us that brakes are fine and we will replace the rotors and pads altogether and it will cost upwards of $2000. There is no way in hell that im going to pay them that much money. LOL
I already bought Akebono Euro pads but im not sure about the rotors. I dont want to put cheap centric rotors but since the car is not used that much, there is no point of putting very expensive ones like Zimmerman or Brembo.
So do you guys suggest that i can use the mid range rotors for around $55 on rockautos or should i get the OEM from MB dealership for $105 front each and $80 for rear each.
Any advise is much appriciated. :smile
Thanks,
Rc
my dad has a 2009 s550 with barely 22,000 miles in 7 years. The brake pads are almost finished and therefore the rotors have lines on 'em. The car was serviced by the local MB dealership who told us that brakes are fine and we will replace the rotors and pads altogether and it will cost upwards of $2000. There is no way in hell that im going to pay them that much money. LOL
I already bought Akebono Euro pads but im not sure about the rotors. I dont want to put cheap centric rotors but since the car is not used that much, there is no point of putting very expensive ones like Zimmerman or Brembo.
So do you guys suggest that i can use the mid range rotors for around $55 on rockautos or should i get the OEM from MB dealership for $105 front each and $80 for rear each.
Any advise is much appriciated. :smile
Thanks,
Rc
#3
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2015 S550
That price is crazy ridiculous. I had my front rotors and pads done for around $500 with OEM equipment at my indy. Rears are cheaper, so you should be able to get all 4 corners done with OEM for under $1k.
#4
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I have done my CL600 front rotors and pads recently, it is extremely easy. If I remember right the OEM rotors/pads were around $350 from http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/support/
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kc1 (02-08-2017)
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#8
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2010 e550 p2
Centric has different rotors , C tek ones are cheaper ones , but if you get the ones that are just Centric those are good quality. ( have those on mine 2010 e550)
check out R1concepts , or even original zimmerman
check out R1concepts , or even original zimmerman
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#10
I have used both portfield r4s and akebono pads with OEM Mb rotors for my 2007 4matic...all is well on 2nd set front and back...oem pads suck, from a dust standpoint, but rotors have given me no issues...
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kc1 (02-08-2017)
#11
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First of all i want to thank everyone for offering useful advice.
Secondly i want to put good rotors and not to skimp on price but im still confused which one to buys. I did some research and no one offers warranties more than a year or two. If the rotors warp after that, then u have to replace them on ur own. MB dealership warranty only applies if i buy OEM rotors + OEM pads.
I want to Akebono pads mainly cause they have very little dust.
I was going to buy OEM rotors from MB but i've heard they warp easily.
Im confused cause there are so many choices. I looked at Brembo, Zimmerman and R1 concepts - all the top quality rotors say they are for high performance use - racing, drifting etc.
Can u guys please suggest any specific rotors.
Thank you for ur support
Secondly i want to put good rotors and not to skimp on price but im still confused which one to buys. I did some research and no one offers warranties more than a year or two. If the rotors warp after that, then u have to replace them on ur own. MB dealership warranty only applies if i buy OEM rotors + OEM pads.
I want to Akebono pads mainly cause they have very little dust.
I was going to buy OEM rotors from MB but i've heard they warp easily.
Im confused cause there are so many choices. I looked at Brembo, Zimmerman and R1 concepts - all the top quality rotors say they are for high performance use - racing, drifting etc.
Can u guys please suggest any specific rotors.
Thank you for ur support
#14
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original mercedes rotors are the best ones you can put, they do not warp easily. Every other brand is not as good hence half the price. The better brands like brembo/zimmerman offer very similiar quality for less $$. personally I would go oem or zimmerman,or brembo. and make sure they have a rust coating.
That said brakes on the sclass are easy if you have done brakes before. I swapped on akebono pads when i 1st bought the car. I used hand tools and a floor jack it will take you all of 2 hrs. Especially if you use a jack.
That said brakes on the sclass are easy if you have done brakes before. I swapped on akebono pads when i 1st bought the car. I used hand tools and a floor jack it will take you all of 2 hrs. Especially if you use a jack.
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kc1 (02-08-2017)
#16
Rotors
For all factory Benz parts gontonthis website it is actually a Benz dealer in Illonis that's sells parts online really cheap and thy come with the Benz warranty.
1569 W. Ogden Av.
Naperville, Illinois, 60540
USA
888-289-6262
parts@mboemparts.com
I ran the akebono parts all the way around with factory rotors and the pads lasted a year in the front.
Company Information
mboemparts.com,1569 W. Ogden Av.
Naperville, Illinois, 60540
USA
888-289-6262
parts@mboemparts.com
I ran the akebono parts all the way around with factory rotors and the pads lasted a year in the front.
#18
Do the rotors have to be changed with every pad change , even if they are not warped? How many sets of pads (generally on w221) can one go through before having to replace rotors as well ?
#19
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The rotors are supposed to be changed with the pads. Benz rotors are thin with not enough material to cut them. You could try doing a pad slap, but your brakes will likely start squealing. On my S600, brakes only last about 15k miles. I've never owned a car with such short brake life....and I don't beat on my car in the least. Based in my full set of service records, the previous owner, a man in his 70's, got the same brake life when he owned the car.
#20
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I bought mine cpo and it had at least new pads, rotors looked fine not sure they were changed. I swapped out the pads for akes and has been fine for 2 years and 10k miles.
#21
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Pads have typically 10mm to wear down before they're down to about 1mm, which is when they need changing.
Every rotors has a nominal thickness and a minimum thickness, and the difference is almost always 2mm, meaning that you're allowed 1mm wear on each face. That usually equate to 2 or 3 sets of pads worth of wear.
You do not have to change the rotors when you change the pads. If you want to, that's fine, but pads are cheap and rotors are expensive.
it doesn't matter if there's a lip on the edge of the rotor, as long as it's no more than 1mm (after rust is removed).
Nick
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NO!
Pads have typically 10mm to wear down before they're down to about 1mm, which is when they need changing.
Every rotors has a nominal thickness and a minimum thickness, and the difference is almost always 2mm, meaning that you're allowed 1mm wear on each face. That usually equate to 2 or 3 sets of pads worth of wear.
You do not have to change the rotors when you change the pads. If you want to, that's fine, but pads are cheap and rotors are expensive.
it doesn't matter if there's a lip on the edge of the rotor, as long as it's no more than 1mm (after rust is removed).
Nick
Pads have typically 10mm to wear down before they're down to about 1mm, which is when they need changing.
Every rotors has a nominal thickness and a minimum thickness, and the difference is almost always 2mm, meaning that you're allowed 1mm wear on each face. That usually equate to 2 or 3 sets of pads worth of wear.
You do not have to change the rotors when you change the pads. If you want to, that's fine, but pads are cheap and rotors are expensive.
it doesn't matter if there's a lip on the edge of the rotor, as long as it's no more than 1mm (after rust is removed).
Nick
You can buy the entire brake kit....rotors, pads, and sensor for the front axle for $185. The entire rear kit can be purchased for around $160. Why skimp on an S-class? If you can handle doing the brake job yourself, it's very cheap.
#23
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Obviously I disagree. Please point me to anyone, anything, anywhere that says rotors should be changed with pads (and who doesn't think the Holocaust was faked).
There's no need for opinions, reasoning or hand-waving arguments. Brake wear is quantifiable, and the criteria are specified. Every rotor has a minimum thickness, and all the parts and specs I've seen (and I've read a lot of brake manufacturer's catalogues) state the minimum thickness is 2mm less than nominal.
If the rotors are thicker than minimum, then they're probably OK. Of course, if they're cracked, warped or heavily corroded, then they need to go. On a car that's only done 22k miles, I think it's unlikely, though it depends on the individual circumstances - if the car has been standing a long time, the rotors may be heavily corroded, for example.
There's no need to fit new rotors just because you're car is heavy, powerful or posh. The brakes are specified to work at minimum thickness, and if that's not enough, then thicker ones are specified from new. This is taken into account by the manufacturer, and they will specify a minimum thickness, and that should be observed.
Nick
There's no need for opinions, reasoning or hand-waving arguments. Brake wear is quantifiable, and the criteria are specified. Every rotor has a minimum thickness, and all the parts and specs I've seen (and I've read a lot of brake manufacturer's catalogues) state the minimum thickness is 2mm less than nominal.
If the rotors are thicker than minimum, then they're probably OK. Of course, if they're cracked, warped or heavily corroded, then they need to go. On a car that's only done 22k miles, I think it's unlikely, though it depends on the individual circumstances - if the car has been standing a long time, the rotors may be heavily corroded, for example.
There's no need to fit new rotors just because you're car is heavy, powerful or posh. The brakes are specified to work at minimum thickness, and if that's not enough, then thicker ones are specified from new. This is taken into account by the manufacturer, and they will specify a minimum thickness, and that should be observed.
Nick
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It's really up to the individual if they want to cheap out and risk loud brakes and pulsation from rotors that are almost certain to warp. The rotors on these cars cannot be resurfaced. For under $200 for all 4 corners of new rotors, is it really worth being that cheap on an S-class? I guess I know your answer.
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