2012 ML350 Bluetec Fuel Filter Replacement Help
08-23-2016, 11:55 AM
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2012 ML350 Bluetec
2012 ML350 Bluetec Fuel Filter Replacement Help
Hi I was able to remove all clamps and hose connecting fuel filter. Unfortunately the Overhead AirManifold is blocking the fuel filter from coming out. I am not able to wriggle it out. Please advice how to remove Air Manifold. The part which is overhead Fuel Filter is AIRMANIFOLD [ 16 ] Part Number 6420982507 onhttps://www.parts.com. 2011 Bluetec has a little different design AirManifold. The fuel filter is exposed and easy to remove. In 2012 upwards, the AirManifold has a small projection sitting over the fuel filter causing obstruction. I am sure many of you will be able to take advantage of replacing fuel filter if this riddle is solved. Expert advice needed on removal of Airmanifold. Thanks, JayKay
08-23-2016, 06:36 PM
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2012 ML350 Bluetec
Hi VIN #: 4JGDA2EB1CA019154
08-23-2016, 07:53 PM
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2012 ML350 Bluetec
Hi Plutoe, thanks for the quick reply. I removed (1), tried pulling the air channel from front of the car but not successful. Do I have to loosen the cooler to get the tube out ? Other than that one bolt and a bracket in front holding the tube, is there anything else preventing the channel from coming out ? it is moving and I am able to wriggle, but not able to get the tube out.
Also could you please post the page for removal / replacement of fuel filter. I don't think it should be that much of struggle to replace fuel filter.
Million Thanks ! Jeevan
Also could you please post the page for removal / replacement of fuel filter. I don't think it should be that much of struggle to replace fuel filter.
Million Thanks ! Jeevan
Last edited by jeevankrish; 08-23-2016 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Add more info
08-24-2016, 05:59 AM
#6
Out Of Control!!
Have you removed the charge air duct upstream,repeat upstream of charge air cooler!!--if so then remove screw and pull forward making sure you do not damage seals(if so then replace)!!
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10-08-2016, 01:03 AM
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2012 ML350 Bluetec
Rmesola.... yes I did. Very simple. Pluto was great help.
Step 1: remove top cover, release the locks to the intake manifold duct "black" and also the electrical connectors. There should be 3 connectors.
Step 2: twist it up the black manifold tubing. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals "red". There should be one more tiny connection below with red rubber seal. Now you should be blue to see the filter clear.
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit. I guess it is the resonator. Loosen the remove the clamp holding the resonator and manifold tube. There is one more bolt holding the resonator just above the pulley sitting at 45 degree angle. Loosen that too.Also remove all the bolts holding the manifold tube which sits blocking the filter.
Step 4: important- now remove the tube gentely from above the resonator and then pull front to remove the tubing going to the turbocharger. Careful there is a green oring between the air tube and turbocharger. Can get easily damaged if you yank the tubing by force. I had to replace mine.
Step 5: once this tubing is removed your filter will be exposed and then there are YouTube videos for the same
Caution - do not try to tank the air tube from near the turbocharger. You will for sure break the oring. Let me know if you have difficulty. Have fun !
Also the newer filters have water sensor built in, so can't remove and replace. I got all my parts for a very great price at parts.com. They are the best. Also I did not have success with clic-r even with dedicated plied. So I used regular hose worm clamp and they work great. Checked for leak bunch of times. Thankfully none.
Step 1: remove top cover, release the locks to the intake manifold duct "black" and also the electrical connectors. There should be 3 connectors.
Step 2: twist it up the black manifold tubing. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals "red". There should be one more tiny connection below with red rubber seal. Now you should be blue to see the filter clear.
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit. I guess it is the resonator. Loosen the remove the clamp holding the resonator and manifold tube. There is one more bolt holding the resonator just above the pulley sitting at 45 degree angle. Loosen that too.Also remove all the bolts holding the manifold tube which sits blocking the filter.
Step 4: important- now remove the tube gentely from above the resonator and then pull front to remove the tubing going to the turbocharger. Careful there is a green oring between the air tube and turbocharger. Can get easily damaged if you yank the tubing by force. I had to replace mine.
Step 5: once this tubing is removed your filter will be exposed and then there are YouTube videos for the same
Caution - do not try to tank the air tube from near the turbocharger. You will for sure break the oring. Let me know if you have difficulty. Have fun !
Also the newer filters have water sensor built in, so can't remove and replace. I got all my parts for a very great price at parts.com. They are the best. Also I did not have success with clic-r even with dedicated plied. So I used regular hose worm clamp and they work great. Checked for leak bunch of times. Thankfully none.
Last edited by jeevankrish; 10-08-2016 at 01:12 AM.
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rmesola (10-08-2016)
10-08-2016, 01:35 AM
#9
jeevankrish -- thanks.
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
thanks
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
thanks
10-08-2016, 08:42 AM
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2012 ML350 Bluetec
jeevankrish -- thanks.
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
thanks
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
thanks
jeevankrish -- thanks.
Answers within.....
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
Yes - correct. That pic is from my car.
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionSearch&storeid=2 &vehicleid=379338§ion=ENGINE&group=ENGINE&subg roup=AIR%20INTAKE&partscomponent=Air%20tube&Title= Mercedes-Benz
Click the link and scroll down for the pic. The alum tube is 16 which yu have to remove to gain access to fuel filter. 11 is the air duct black which you have to remove first. The red seals are on connections for 11. 17 is the green oring which I broke. Just remove the alum connection from opposite end of green oring and pull out that end first ....lift and pull the fitting.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
Don't be overwhelmed. It is fairly easy. Mine was first try. I purchased all my parts from parts.com for 40k mile service. There are 2 orings. One in front of the aluminum pipe near the grill and that oring is black. Chances are you might not break it. But the other green oring at connection with turbocharger might break and that is the part I purchased. All parts cost me no more than 350$. I didn't want to pay $1300 to the dealer. In this service I replaced 2 air filters at the end of 11. Cabin air filters, oil filter, fuel filter, brake fluid flush.
thanks
Answers within.....
to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above
Yes - correct. That pic is from my car.
I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionSearch&storeid=2 &vehicleid=379338§ion=ENGINE&group=ENGINE&subg roup=AIR%20INTAKE&partscomponent=Air%20tube&Title= Mercedes-Benz
Click the link and scroll down for the pic. The alum tube is 16 which yu have to remove to gain access to fuel filter. 11 is the air duct black which you have to remove first. The red seals are on connections for 11. 17 is the green oring which I broke. Just remove the alum connection from opposite end of green oring and pull out that end first ....lift and pull the fitting.
How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..
Don't be overwhelmed. It is fairly easy. Mine was first try. I purchased all my parts from parts.com for 40k mile service. There are 2 orings. One in front of the aluminum pipe near the grill and that oring is black. Chances are you might not break it. But the other green oring at connection with turbocharger might break and that is the part I purchased. All parts cost me no more than 350$. I didn't want to pay $1300 to the dealer. In this service I replaced 2 air filters at the end of 11. Cabin air filters, oil filter, fuel filter, brake fluid flush.
thanks
09-25-2017, 09:33 AM
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ML350 W166
Update on how to renew the fuel filter on the 2014 ML 166ML.
Remove top clover. loosen the air filter thumb clips from air filters, loosen the hose clip on the turbo intake. Remove 3 electrical plugs from trunking, you can leave the hose on.You can pull the trunking back to get it off the air filter boxes and twist it upward from the front, this will remove it from the turbo, secure it out the way. Loosen the turbo boost pipe on the right hand side looking (at the engine) one screw in the middle of pipe, loosen the air chamber on the front of engine two screws this will drop and allow the boost pipe to come free, remove this and watch for the O-ring. Loosen the 3 screws holding the fuel filter and the screw that clamps the bracket. remove the 2 fuel lines and electrical connection plug. You should be able to wiggle the filter out. Fit in return order. The system bleeds itself with the key on, do this 4-5 times you can hear the air going into the tank.
Remove top clover. loosen the air filter thumb clips from air filters, loosen the hose clip on the turbo intake. Remove 3 electrical plugs from trunking, you can leave the hose on.You can pull the trunking back to get it off the air filter boxes and twist it upward from the front, this will remove it from the turbo, secure it out the way. Loosen the turbo boost pipe on the right hand side looking (at the engine) one screw in the middle of pipe, loosen the air chamber on the front of engine two screws this will drop and allow the boost pipe to come free, remove this and watch for the O-ring. Loosen the 3 screws holding the fuel filter and the screw that clamps the bracket. remove the 2 fuel lines and electrical connection plug. You should be able to wiggle the filter out. Fit in return order. The system bleeds itself with the key on, do this 4-5 times you can hear the air going into the tank.
01-18-2018, 10:17 AM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hello All,
I know you had this job done so you bought most of the parts which I'm trying to identify. Please help
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...few-parts.html
Thank you.
I know you had this job done so you bought most of the parts which I'm trying to identify. Please help
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...few-parts.html
Thank you.
02-17-2020, 06:43 PM
#14
I tried to replace duke filter over the weekend. Pretty much everything is straightforward, although a lot of connections/pieces to remove. Anyway when I got to the 3rd step referenced above:
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit.
I removed the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover, but there still appears to be something holding it in place. Either midway down or the bottom?, so I wasn’t able to get it out. Any idea what is holding in place after removal of the top bolts?
thanks.
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit.
I removed the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover, but there still appears to be something holding it in place. Either midway down or the bottom?, so I wasn’t able to get it out. Any idea what is holding in place after removal of the top bolts?
thanks.
