Hi I was able to remove all clamps and hose connecting fuel filter. Unfortunately the Overhead AirManifold is blocking the fuel filter from coming out. I am not able to wriggle it out. Please advice how to remove Air Manifold. The part which is overhead Fuel Filter is AIRMANIFOLD [ 16 ] Part Number 6420982507 onhttps://www.parts.com. 2011 Bluetec has a little different design AirManifold. The fuel filter is exposed and easy to remove. In 2012 upwards, the AirManifold has a small projection sitting over the fuel filter causing obstruction. I am sure many of you will be able to take advantage of replacing fuel filter if this riddle is solved. Expert advice needed on removal of Airmanifold. Thanks, JayKay

 

Hi VIN #: 4JGDA2EB1CA019154

 

Hi Plutoe, thanks for the quick reply. I removed (1), tried pulling the air channel from front of the car but not successful. Do I have to loosen the cooler to get the tube out ? Other than that one bolt and a bracket in front holding the tube, is there anything else preventing the channel from coming out ? it is moving and I am able to wriggle, but not able to get the tube out.

Also could you please post the page for removal / replacement of fuel filter. I don't think it should be that much of struggle to replace fuel filter.

Million Thanks ! Jeevan

 

have the same problem.. did you figure out how to remove the filter? thanks

 

Rmesola.... yes I did. Very simple. Pluto was great help.
Step 1: remove top cover, release the locks to the intake manifold duct "black" and also the electrical connectors. There should be 3 connectors.
Step 2: twist it up the black manifold tubing. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals "red". There should be one more tiny connection below with red rubber seal. Now you should be blue to see the filter clear.
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit. I guess it is the resonator. Loosen the remove the clamp holding the resonator and manifold tube. There is one more bolt holding the resonator just above the pulley sitting at 45 degree angle. Loosen that too.Also remove all the bolts holding the manifold tube which sits blocking the filter.
Step 4: important- now remove the tube gentely from above the resonator and then pull front to remove the tubing going to the turbocharger. Careful there is a green oring between the air tube and turbocharger. Can get easily damaged if you yank the tubing by force. I had to replace mine.
Step 5: once this tubing is removed your filter will be exposed and then there are YouTube videos for the same
Caution - do not try to tank the air tube from near the turbocharger. You will for sure break the oring. Let me know if you have difficulty. Have fun !
Also the newer filters have water sensor built in, so can't remove and replace. I got all my parts for a very great price at parts.com. They are the best. Also I did not have success with clic-r even with dedicated plied. So I used regular hose worm clamp and they work great. Checked for leak bunch of times. Thankfully none.

 

jeevankrish -- thanks.

to clarify the intake manifold duct you are talking about is that aluminum tube in your original picture above

I'm confused by the black, red and blue terms.. do you by chance have a picture of the areas you mentioned. I appreciate any help.

How difficult was the entire process... and lastly where did you buy the replacement o rings.. I may just want to buy a spare in case I damage it..

thanks

 

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that's awesome... thanks for the help

 

Update on how to renew the fuel filter on the 2014 ML 166ML.
Remove top clover. loosen the air filter thumb clips from air filters, loosen the hose clip on the turbo intake. Remove 3 electrical plugs from trunking, you can leave the hose on.You can pull the trunking back to get it off the air filter boxes and twist it upward from the front, this will remove it from the turbo, secure it out the way. Loosen the turbo boost pipe on the right hand side looking (at the engine) one screw in the middle of pipe, loosen the air chamber on the front of engine two screws this will drop and allow the boost pipe to come free, remove this and watch for the O-ring. Loosen the 3 screws holding the fuel filter and the screw that clamps the bracket. remove the 2 fuel lines and electrical connection plug. You should be able to wiggle the filter out. Fit in return order. The system bleeds itself with the key on, do this 4-5 times you can hear the air going into the tank.

 

Hello All,
I know you had this job done so you bought most of the parts which I'm trying to identify. Please help
https://mbworld.org/forums/new-m-cla...few-parts.html

Thank you.

 

I tried to replace duke filter over the weekend. Pretty much everything is straightforward, although a lot of connections/pieces to remove. Anyway when I got to the 3rd step referenced above:
Step 3: just in front of the engine where the belt is running you will see a plastic cover. There are 2 bolts holding it. Remove the 2 bolts. You will have space to see where the intake manifold tube is connected to a black plastic unit.

I removed the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover, but there still appears to be something holding it in place. Either midway down or the bottom?, so I wasn’t able to get it out. Any idea what is holding in place after removal of the top bolts?

thanks.

 

Did you ever get an answer or figure it out how to remove it? I'm running into the same issue and don't want to break anything.
Please let me know. Thanks.

 

Yes, after taking with dealer technician, he stated that it just lifts up but is very difficult to do so. There is a rubber grommet holding it. Just when you think you are going to break something, it gives. However, just recently a friend was helping. He use a small pry and reached down to pry one side up and used it as leverage to pull up at an angle, rather than straight up. That allowed the grommet to release a lot easier.

 

Thank you. Let's hope I don't break anything.

 

Sorry, one more question. Did you also changed the air intake seal from the duct to turbocharger and the crankcase breather pipe seal?

 

1) if that is the orange seal yes, I just changed it. It had a crack in it. Very inexpensive. It only fits one way (there is a raised dimple that goes into a hole in the housing). I wish I changed it much sooner as I had a persistent oil leak that the dealer kept changing other things but never resolved. As soon as I changed this, the leak went away.

2) the plate should come off easy. While prying one side by reaching down, grab the top with your other hand and twist while pulling prying. If you climb underneath, you will see that the only thing holding it is, in fact, the rubber grommet. We greased it before putting back on to help next time. This plate is not on all x166, just the ones with active body control (or active stability??) I think.

 

Thank you, will let you know how it goes. I'll do it myself when I get a little time and will let you know. Crazy how much a dealership wants to charge for this. Let's hope everything works OK.

 

Good morning and thank you for the advise. I finally changed the fuel filter and you were right, that rubber from the bottom became loose easily after I lifted from one side. So, thank you. It took me a little longer than anticipated, but I did it myself.
Anyway, after changing it, it seems the car is out of power, it doesn't go more than 90 mph. I changed at a friend of mine in NV and on my way to UT I couldn't get it higher than that speed. After about 100 miles the check engine light came on. We got home but the problem persists. Any idea what could cause the issue?