antihero

I was just quoted $2200 for the ABC Pump, plus labor for a 2006 SL600. Does that sound about right? I had no idea they were that expensive. I was quoted from a reputable (according to Google and Yelp) German auto repair shop in Escondido, CA. What should I realistically expect, and are there any quality alternatives? thanks

BlownV8

Search the forum. Plenty of rebuilt ones for around 1/4 of that price.

ItalianJoe1

www.rockauto.com

Try there. They usually have rebuilt ones for shockingly cheap now.

antihero

Thanks, there's no match for "abc pump" or "tandem pump"... is power steering pump the correct term? Also, I'm assuming the reservoir will be reused, since it indicates that it's not included.

mercy-me

There are two different pumps available depending on your manufacture date, see attached parts list. The most reasonable OEM parts supplier that I have found is MB Parts Direct ie Huskers Group in Nebraska. List prices are $2280 and $2070. Discounted prices are $1621 and $1475 respectively. Your shop is obviously not discounting the parts which is normal.

There are rebuilt alternatives as was previously stated at a much lower price. If your shop is willing to exchange your pump for a rebuilt one then stand behind the warranty parts and labor then that could be a viable alternative to buying a new pump. Be weary of a parts only warranty as you will wind up spending the labor dollars again to replace a defective or failed pump.

See attachment for book time of 4.6hrs to R&I the pump. You will want to replace the ABC filter in the reservoir and of course the fluid may need to be flushed and replaced depending on how clean it is. Your shop should recommend a flush.

You are probably looking at a $3-3.5k repair estimate with parts and labor going with a new OEM pump. Be sure to get a written estimate showing exactly what is included in the bottom line quote. Expect to pay list price for all parts and fluids as that is normal. Labor is always somewhat arbitrary as each shop has their specialties and know where they can cut corners.

Be perfectly clear on your warranty and what is not included.

You have a beautiful car still worth upwards of $30k+. What you do now will most likely outlast your ownership.

Hope this helps,

Good luck,

Bob

(Now if you could do this job yourself, you could save a bundle.)

ItalianJoe1

Yeah it's listed as the "power steering pump" but even in the pictures you can clearly see the dual inlet and outlet design.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/m...ld.org+URL+%2F

They all come without the resevior, it's quite far apart from the pump. It's fed by a hose leading down to the suction restriction valve and then to the pump.

antihero

Thanks for the insightful post. The last piece of advice was helpful to influence my decision. I opted to bite the bullet and go with the OEM Mercedes pump despite the egregious price, as I really do not trust a rebuilt or remanufactured pump. Do it right, do it once.. do it wrong, do it twice. I have never cut corners with the maintenance or upgrades with my cars, and I wouldn't now.

BlownV8

Don't confuse rebuilt with lesser quality. Often times the rebuilt units use better seals than the OE.part so they actually last longer. I've had brand new ABC pumps fail in less than a year and don't get me started at how bad the OE air struts, on airmatic cars, are compared to the rebuilt units. New is not always better.

tandan

B8, I know you'll get a kick out of this. Just brought my 07 SL65 in for a 1 year service (A service, approx $300) I told the sa I was experiencing a louder and louder whining noise. It was the ABC pump. They also replaced a front bushing and control arm. Total cost, a little over $5000. All except the A service covered by extended warranty.

ItalianJoe1

The OEM pumps are rebuilt now I believe anyway. I know the struts are.

antihero

Do you have evidence that the rebuilt units, the ones that you referred to that are 1/4 the cost of OEM Mercedes pump, use better seals and actually last longer? Let's not get into air struts, etc… I am strictly speaking about the ABC pump. I called several different shops and they unanimously agree that the aftermarket units are not reliable based on their collective experiences.

Rudeney

I'd say the quality of a rebuilt pump compared to a new OE unit would be based on why the OE pump fails. If it's from wear and tear, then a rebuilt pump might not be any better, or, might even be worse. If it's because the seals and other replaceable rubber parts wear out, then assuming good parts are used, the rebuilt unit should be just fine. And, the the failure of these seals was due to the fact that OE used lower compounds that were adversely affected by the fluids and temps, then it's quite possible a rebuilt unit might be of higher quality if they used better rubber compounds. This is actually the case with the roof hydraulics. The OE strut seals used a compound that was softened by the fluid. Most rebuild shops use a better seal which will last much longer.

BlownV8

Do whatever makes you feel good. I speak from direct experience with aftermarket rebuilt MB components. My old CL ate 3 factory ABC pumps in less than 80,000 miles. Sorry, that is not reliable. As a whole, I've found that rebuilt MB components were more reliable that factory new components and it is even more pronounced with hydraulic systems and components like seals and hoses.

The exception to this would be MB glass vs aftermarket replacement. The factory MB glass is MUCH better and stronger than aftermarket glass. Always go with factory MB glass vs a replacement part.

Koru_Kinshi

I assume the pumps for the 600 & 500 are the same? Or are they different?

mercy-me

Yes, same ABC system.

next2pool

I purchased a new (not rebuilt) pump for $1100 with no core charge. I then had the old one rebuilt by Rock Auto for $190 and sold it on Ebay for $550.

njbiker2008

the way to go

imtheking

After my experience with Strustmaster, I'm never taking the coilover route. I've been scarred pretty bad.

They were so bad that i originally wanted to sell them- I told my mechanic to dispose them- I dont wish that crap on my worst enemy

For me- I will continue to maintain the ABC system

Sidenote- my pump is going south- probably damaged during the strutmaster period- low pressure errors according to SDS- found a rebuilt pump on Ebay for $220 with one year warranty- indy charging me $300 to put it in

matk

I can’t help but feel that a percentage of ABC pump failures would be down to degradation and contamination of the ABC fluid.

If you don’t renew the fluid and filters regularly then there will inevitably be particles dissolving into it as the ABC internals wear and perish. The fact that Mercedes designed a filter into the system supports that.

If I’m correct then in circumstances when the guide and filter aren’t regularly changed, it’s hardly the pumps fault?

BlownV8

Nope, it can be perfectly maintained and the pumps will still fail. The ones I've owned failed like clockwork and time and mileage intervals. The system is just prone to failure.

With that said, I feel you can do things that will help ownership like changing the accumulators, hydraulic lines, installing a magnetic filter, and changing the fluid every few years. It may not keep the pump from failing but I feel it will help keep the valve blocks cleaner and you will have a better ride. I only have around 10 years of ownership, 6 ABC pumps, and 200k miles so my experience may be limited.

seven_out

That seems to be the prevailing view, but I doubt anyone really knows.

Anecdotally, two friends of mine each have a 2005 S55. Both cars have gone well over 200K miles. One car still has its original pump, the other car's pump was recently replaced. My SL55 has 105K miles, and only the front and rear accumulator have been replaced -- all other ABC hardware is original. None of the three aforementioned vehicles have had their ABC hydraulic oil changed.

BlownV8

Forgot to mention, I feel heat plays a big role in the failures. In colder climates, I feel the system performs better/more reliably. I'm in Florida so it gets darn hot and I was always dealing with ABC issues on my CL but only replaced one pump on my SL. Rod 84, where do you and your friends live?

My old SL600 wide-body was way more reliable than my CL but my SL had a vented hood that let out a lot of heat. Both were V12 cars and I can't help but think those are more prone to failure due to weight and that the engine bay is an oven on the bi-turbo V12 cars. The V8's may and probably will need less maintenance/repair over the V12 models.

matk

Well if course I agree with you but only in the same way that most people would agree that smoking kills, but that doesn’t stop someone smoking 40 a day and living to 100. There will always be unique experiences and of course pumps will fail for no particular reason at all, but on the whole I think if the ABC fluid is always kept clean and replaced that’s got to help? I’m in no way saying that if you do this though it guarantees a long life pump. It’s about maximising the odds in your favour.

BlownV8

I can't help to think it won't hurt and certainly may help. I, personally, did not see any difference in my results. What did matter is the heat aspect. The cooler the engine bay the fewer problems I had

sivikvtec

I would say it depends on how long you plan on keeping the car. My ABC system functioned 100% perfectly when I bought the car last November with 45k miles.

Preventatively changing the fluid opened Pandora’s box and caused all kinds of problems that thousands of dollars later still are not resolved. I plan on keeping this car at least 10 years, so hopefully these actions will ultimately result in improved long term reliability.

If everything works fine and you might sell the car in 1-2 years, I would just replace the filter and leave the fluid alone!!