When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice looking batmobile
I'm considering running the same suspension as you did with the H&R's, Bilsteins and #1 pads. How does it handle? Does it roll when you hit a curve too fast? Do you feel the road better?
Very nice looking batmobile
I'm considering running the same suspension as you did with the H&R's, Bilsteins and #1 pads. How does it handle? Does it roll when you hit a curve too fast? Do you feel the road better?
The car handles great with very little body roll. Defiantly worth doing and easy I might add. I did all the rear control arms and bushings so that might make a difference if yours are not done. I might try the Polly bushings in the front LCA.
Flat Emblem is more suitable with your great Plasti-dip touch, don't forget to paint the calipers..
ZAYED,,
Did a little winter maintenance. New lower control arms, ball joins, swaybar links, turned the rotors, pads, wheels bearings, seals, and painted the calipers
You obviously know what your doing with the dip..I do NOT!
I just bought a Ford T Speedster and its all yellow, even the spoked wheels.
It all looks fantastic but I was thinking of trying the color black on the wheels.
Do you have any idea how difficult it would be to adhere the P.Dip to the spokes?
How about removing it?
Thanks.
I dig your car.
Looks good.
are you running spacers in the back. my rear wheels are not that close to the fender
No spacers. I lowered the car until the tire just about touched the inside part of the fender then I added some negative camber to achieve the look I wanted and it's still within spec. Here are a few close up pics.
You obviously know what your doing with the dip..I do NOT!
I just bought a Ford T Speedster and its all yellow, even the spoked wheels.
It all looks fantastic but I was thinking of trying the color black on the wheels.
Do you have any idea how difficult it would be to adhere the P.Dip to the spokes?
How about removing it?
Thanks.
I dig your car.
I'm on my phone but when I get home I'll give you a write up on how I did the plasti dip so it can be removed fairly easy.
Now that a nice T model you have there. I think some black wheels would compliment the yellow very nicely.
This is how I do my wheels and other small pieces.
Clean, clean, and clean.
Once you have a nice clean surface I would tape anything you don't want painted.
I have only used the plasti-dip name brand paint and I usually buy from Home Depot.
My first coat is very light, more like a dusting. I give a single pass over the entire piece, don't worry if it didn't cover 100%. Your just trying to get a good base.
My second and third coat I apply a little heavier.
Now my forth and final coat I apply pretty heavy.
I believe the above method make it much easier to remove and leaves a better finish. When you apply the first 3 coats try not to go back over spots because you think it needs more. We all do this and it's one reason most rattle cans look bad and have runs. 4 wheels usually take 2-3 cans. Spray 8-10 inches away. Make sure you shake well. I wait 15 min between coats.
Hope this help. Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.
Now that a nice T model you have there. I think some black wheels would compliment the yellow very nicely.
This is how I do my wheels and other small pieces.
Clean, clean, and clean.
Once you have a nice clean surface I would tape anything you don't want painted.
I have only used the plasti-dip name brand paint and I usually buy from Home Depot.
My first coat is very light, more like a dusting. I give a single pass over the entire piece, don't worry if it didn't cover 100%. Your just trying to get a good base.
My second and third coat I apply a little heavier.
Now my forth and final coat I apply pretty heavy.
I believe the above method make it much easier to remove and leaves a better finish. When you apply the first 3 coats try not to go back over spots because you think it needs more. We all do this and it's one reason most rattle cans look bad and have runs. 4 wheels usually take 2-3 cans. Spray 8-10 inches away. Make sure you shake well. I wait 15 min between coats.
Hope this help. Feel free to ask if you have anymore questions.
Steve
Hey Thanks so much Steve. I do appreciate it. Thanks for the compliment as well. The car is fun as hell!
One Question: What type of cleaner would you recommend for the wheels prior to painting?
Thanks Man.
Last edited by Frank N Sense; 04-26-2016 at 10:50 PM.
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
Originally Posted by turbo1k
The car handles great with very little body roll. Defiantly worth doing and easy I might add. I did all the rear control arms and bushings so that might make a difference if yours are not done. I might try the Polly bushings in the front LCA.
What kind of poly bushing.....energy suspension? I would like to replace the rubber bushings on the control arms too. Only problem is, getting the correct size
What kind of poly bushing.....energy suspension? I would like to replace the rubber bushings on the control arms too. Only problem is, getting the correct size
I ended up just putting all new factory control arms in. I wasn't happy with the Polly bushings that are offered for our cars.
After 2 years it was just as nice as the day it was done. I have since removed the wrap and trying to vinyl wrap the car myself. If you check out my other thread you can see the current state of the car.
09-04-2015, 04:11 AM
