Originally Posted by chargedsix

mine squeak like crazy. have tried adjusting the preload as well as lubricating the bushings and mounts. If the squeak does go away it comes back after a day or so of driving.

Originally Posted by wpbmed

BC has a video on their web site showing how to set the pre load. I guess I will take them off and do this and see what happens. The guy on the video says he is doing "4mm of preload" and this is good for a "street or track car", don't know how it could be both. Can any one advise if 4mm is a good amount for the E55, or should it be less? Thanks!

Originally Posted by AutoLuxury

First and foremost! Major apologies to all my friends following this. I have been dealing with weather, work, and lack of time to complete this project as quickly as I anticipated.

However this is not going to be as precise as the previous install. Its simple really, remove everything and reinstall. LOL! I know too easy right? Wrong this was hell and took loads of time. So without further adieu here we go:

As usual break the lug nuts loose with the car on the ground. Chock the front wheels on both sides of the wheel.



Then get the rear end up in the air. The rear is a bit tricky so i suggest you use the factory jack on the jacking points in the rear and lift the car up.







Then slide a proper jack in from behind the car and you will see two big rubber pads on each side of the car infront of the mufflers. These are also jacking points. Place a piece of 2x4 in between the jack and the rubber pads and lift one side at at time untill the rear end is up high enough for the factory jack to fall out of the standard jacking point. Then proceed to install a jack stand in the factory jacking point. Repeat on the other side as well (DO NOT RAISE THE CAR AS HIGH AS THE JACK STAND WILL GO ON THE FIRST LIFT). Make sure you raise each side up a few inches at a time and stagger the lifting process. This will guarantee that the car will not fall off the jack stands but also will be a lot safer .

Once you have accomplished that. Remove the wheels and this is what you should be staring at:


Remove all the nuts holding the inner fender liner from the car. This should allow you to see what kind of carnage you are about to come in contact with.



On the back back side of the rear spindle facing the rear of the car will be a connecting arm to the chassis. Disconnect this bolt from the spindle.


Remove the sway bar from the spindle and the camber arm


Now take a zip tire and swing the sway bar mount up and hold the rear toe arm in place with the sway bar mount and a zip tie like so:


Now trace the line leaving the shock to this junction box. There will be three connections in there. You will remove the middle one. To sever the connection you will see a small metal clip at the top. Simply insert a flat head screwdriver and pry upwards. The clip will slide with ease and you will remove the clip. Then unplug the middle harness clip by pulling with a light tug. Then insert the clip back and press firmly till it clicks in place.



Lets get that pesky shock out! LOL! Remove the bolt from the control arm. Enter your trunk and remove the liner from the same side you are working on and undo the top nut. Compress the shock by hand it should come out easily.
I forgot to take a picture of this step.

Now lets pull that annoying rear air bladder. The rear air bladder has nothing holding it up top except a centering bulge in the chassis and a dip on the bladders top side to accommodate the bulge. So the best way to remove the air bladder is to cut the main thick rubber hose leading to it. All the air will leak out of the bladder and it will compress like an accordion.


Then remove the lower bolt.


Cut the factory white air feed line:


Unclip the harness:


This is what should pop out.


Undo the two bolts holding the brake caliper on.
(sorry no picture)

Undo this control arm bolt from the spindle.


Then undo this control arm bolt from the chassis:



Remove the control arm!

Yay! Go grab a beer/cold drink/water/smoke/or pop a squat! The hard part is over with!

Now reinstallation is the reverse of removal.

1. Insert new control arm with spring cup to spindle and bolt down
2. Seat the spring as per manufacturers instructions and insert rear control arm bolt
3. Feed top of shock through trunk hole and bolt down with proper bushings. Then connect eyelet bolt to the shock and control arm.
4. Install camber arm.
5. Install brake calipers
6. Install rear toe arm.
7. Install sway bar.
8. Install rear fender liner
9. Repeat on the other side.


TADA You are done. My phone battery died so I didn't get to take any more pictures. I feel sad now. Adjust your coilovers as per manufactures instructions!






****TO DISABLE AIRMATIC AND AVOID THE WARNINGS ON THE DASH. JUST OPEN THE DRIVER SIDE DASH FUSE BOX. AND PULL FUSE F037 AND ITS DONE. NO MORE AIRMATIC WARNINGS AND NO MORE VISIT WORKSHOP WARNINGS.****



IF YOU WANT TO GO LOW YOU CAN WITH THESE:









The only thing i had to purchase was the control arms to install the BC Racing MBR Type Coilovers. Nothing else.

Originally Posted by jumph4x

Having pulled the 037 fuse, does the main display complain about anything at all? Mine said 'Display Malfunction' but I also tinkered with other things, so I didn't have an opportunity to isolate it.

Originally Posted by David Jerome

I just installed mine and have the same Dispaly Malfunction. I didnt mess with anything else so I would assume this is the reason.