zamg

I have had my 2005 e55 for several months, love the car. I was driving normal speeds on the tollway today and excelled to change lanes. The car excelled than just died under execration. I managed to get to the emergency lane and the car would only turn over..

No signs of issues, no cel, car has no mods, 54k miles.

Had the car towed back to the house.

I know this is not a lot of info, but looking for where to start looking for the issue.

is this most likely a crank positioning sensor? is there a way to trouble shoot.

Or ? where do I start.

thanks in advance for the help...

2000UZJ

Did you loose mechanical functions or electrical? It certainly sounds like a CPS problem.

CPS doesn't throw a code.

zamg

No the mechanical and electrical seemed to be fine. Just died under normal acceleration. I let off the gas and though I was find no CEL or other signs of issues until I I noticed I was not accelerating.

Hoping it is a CPS..

thanks

mAMG

Mostly CPS as said Above or fuel relay. Good luck

zamg

I changed the CPS and I still have the same issue. Car will turn over but will not start.
I pressed the valve at the end of the fuel rail and fuel does come out..

any suggestion on what to look for now?

thanks

shardul

iTrader: (1)

can you check the fuel pressure with key on engine off.

You can rent a FP gauge from any local parts store.

zamg

I am not sure i follow what you are asking..

is my next best step to put a fuel gauge to determine if I am getting pressure?


thanks

zamg

I primed the car by putting gas in the throttle body and the car started and ran until the gas was gone.

So that would make me thing it is a fuel delivery issue. So what are the typical culprits, fuel relay, pump?

am I on the right path?

vikingdiesel

I had the same issue last night, read my thread

zamg

I did not see an answer to the problem did I miss something?

vikingdiesel

There is no answer, I was just saying, it's most likely fuel related

zamg

I pulled the rear seat and when turn the key I can hear the pumps on the pass side kick in. I do not hear anything from the driver side.

should I hear something from the driver side or are that the filter and sending unit?

Rob CL

Have you tried the crank sensor? If not, it sounds like you may be chasing down Phantom issues.

zamg

Yes, the CPS was the first thing changed..

It is clearly fuel delivery .. Now i am trying to figure out the difference between the pumps in the fuel tank and what need to be order and were and where to order..

zamg

I pulled the fuel sending unit behind the driver side seat. I do not see any gas in the tank. the gauge was reading around 1/4 a tank..

should I see gas? did the sending unit just go out?
what is the correct part number for the sending unit behind the drivers side?

I also pulled the fuel line that connects to the top of the sending unit on the dr side, turned key, the pumps come on and gas comes out the hose.

is this a return hose or hose to get gas from one side of the tank to the other..

is this an indication the unit on the driver side is bad?

I really appreciate any advice or help.. I need to get parts ordered but would like to narrow down what I need..

zamg

It looks like I am just out of gas. So my sending unit was not reading correctly.

can anyone tell me what the clip is for I found it in the bottom of the pass side gas tank.

thanks

thunderclaps

If they are white , they hold the cables from driver to passenger assy.

knowbenz

Those clips hold the fuel lines into the pumps on the passenger side. If they are not in there then the fuel lines can pop off pumps causing a problem that closely resembles your concern.

The drivers side of the tank will empty first before passenger side.

You might have those clips if your fuel pumps were changed and some ******* left the old clips. But since you have it apart make sure the pumps have those clips where the lines connect

210lvr

if you have fuel pressure its not a crank sensor. there are 2 fuel pumps on the right side. the car will run on 1 pump but will have low pressure (~30psi, will buck and jerk with throttle application greater than about 40%). pull the cover and connector off and check the pins for burned contacts/corrosion. those clips as stated are from the fuel pumps. sometimes they pop off when you change a pump set and with a full or near full tank of gas good luck finding them. i have lost them before and there is one somewhere in my tank still. the new pumps come with new retainers so its not a huge deal to lose one, they're not getting sucked into any system. if they reused the old ones then you can have an issue with the lines popping off.

shardul is pushing you in the right direction. having fuel pressure is one thing, having correct fuel pressure is another. a squirt from the fuel pressure port could be anywhere from 5psi to 50psi, one is adequate, one is inadequate an will have a varying degree of symptoms (no start, extended cranking, hesitation under load, lean codes blah blah blah)

the system is designed to use both halves of the tank to develop a fuel level reading. if you read a 1/4 and its empty on your left side, then your right side either has fuel in it, or a sender is faulty. there is a feed on the left side that transfers fuel to the right side where the pump pick up is. due to tank shape the pump must transfer remaining fuel from the left side to the right as there is no way for it to get back to the pumps on the right side. with a quarter tank of gas reading, it should all be on your passenger side already. when you fill up, the filler neck dumps to the right side where the pumps are, obviously. so there are times the left tank will be completely empty.

edit: i guess what i was aiming at was, pick up sharduls advice, take a quick trip to autozone or another auto parts store that allows rentals and rent a fuel pressure gauge, get some readings and post them up.

zamg

New issues but seems to be related. The connector and pins look brand new on all connectors on both sides of the tanks.

Fuel pressure with key on but not started is at 30+ psi when running at idle it is at 70+ PSI.

Yesterday the car took slightly longer to start. I immediately turn it off and it started normally no other starting issues.

Today I started the car, put in reverse and it died. put back in park , started car put it in reverse and it died. Started car and it ran fine, no additional issues.

checked fuel pressure and was 30+ psi with engine off and 70+ at idle.

any idea what could be causing these issues?

thanks

210lvr

car will stay running indefinitely while in park? it worked for the rest of the day fine as you said but the 2nd time before you put it into reverse, did you let it idle for a bit before trying again? i wonder if by sheer luck and coincidence you have an issue with a key or eis now. if you have a spare key, i would use that and see if your issues go away. usually stuff that hints at drive authorization, its suggested to use a spare and if the problems go away then its obviously a key fault. if the problem consists it could be an eis or a different fault completely.

ive seen camshaft position sensors cause similar issues. they will cause prolonged crank or a crank no start, all intermittent. i wouldnt put it past it to cause the car do die at random. they will throw codes but not a check engine light necessarily. usually its "camshaft hall sensor plausibility" or something along those lines.

i think the best course of action would be to see if you can get an sds hooked up and a get a scan done. there are a lot of codes that will not throw a CEL but will store a code in ME that could help you here. 112/113 air mass are super easy to do a general check on with an sds by checking the voltages at koeo or >3500. if you got an sds hooked up then its a 60 second check, just for ****s and giggles. i dont think its ever seen one kill a car though.

your fuel pressure is ******* so i would throw fuel related issues out the window (volume would be a good check to do but honestly if i was me i would move on). if youre loosing fuel pressure after a certian amount of time you would idle down and lope before dieing, but what youre describing is an immediate stall.

sometimes the cars are so full of codes you just gotta clear them out completely for a fresh start and then rescan them once they issues return. id be interested to find out what you find.

zamg

I have not had any issues since my last post but have not put a lot of miles on the car either. I did not let it idle long when I was having the dyeing issue when in reverse.

thanks for the info.. guess I need to find someone with a sds in houston

spsinha

Does anyone have the part numbers for the little white c-clips pictured above? I seem to only have one when I removed my old sender yesterday.