$384 Power Window Regulator Fix for $7.00 at HD
11-04-2011, 09:39 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
$384 Power Window Regulator Fix for $7.00 at HD
Just wanted to contribute to the forum:
New Regulator $384 or discounted at around $184, I don't think so.
Regulator motor was fine it was the damn plastic wheel that crumbled or the plastic slider, luckily it was the wheel.
Dremelled it off and went to home depot and replaced it with a bolt on. Works perfectly!
$7.00 plus tax
Operated it off the car to insure it is all well, ALL WELL
Jim
New Regulator $384 or discounted at around $184, I don't think so.
Regulator motor was fine it was the damn plastic wheel that crumbled or the plastic slider, luckily it was the wheel.
Dremelled it off and went to home depot and replaced it with a bolt on. Works perfectly!
$7.00 plus tax
Operated it off the car to insure it is all well, ALL WELL
Jim
Last edited by DRACO; 11-05-2011 at 10:17 PM.
11-05-2011, 03:11 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Good Point:
I didn't want to bore peops, but here it goes!
Symptoms
Window does not move and a Grinding Noise as one uses the switch.
Panel Removal
Use a 10MM socket to remove the bolt from the top portion of the pull handle ( it so happens to be the top portion of the window regulator ).
Using a needle nose, hold the door latch rod and remove from back of the chrome door release lever. Once released slide the lever handle cover forward and pull away from the panel.
Now here is the tricky part, resist the urge to pull the panel from the door, they are not installed by plastic push pins/tabs like GM's and Japanese cars, instead they are hooked in by plastic tabs. It requires you slide the panel up about 1/2-1" to remove from the door.
Don't pull away just yet, you will notice the switch hooked up to the panel, gently push it out of the panel, You will need this hooked up for the test.
Remove the window felt guide.
Window Regulator
Here you should see what the issue is, If lucky, your cable will be un-wound, if not it will be the Plastic Slide assembly. If assembly, you will need to rebuild it or buy a new regulator. I rebuilt the passenger side with JB weld, 2 years later still working
Let's say you are lucky and it is the cable un-wound due to a broken top or bottom wheel.
Remove the 3 nuts and 1 bolt that holds the regulator in the door. Raise the regulator with the window to release from the top mount bracket and now release the black stay tab on window to the sliding assembly, this is how you seperate the window from the regulator. TAKE CARE not to allow the glass to slam down the door, it is very expensive if it shatters.
Grab the glass and slide it all the way up and tape in place.
Now with the regulator freely floating around in the door. Manuver the top portion back in an angle so the regulator will come out motor first, release the tab holding the switch so you can get enough slack on the wires to pull out the door to work on the wheel/s.
Observe which wheel is trashed and commence using a sanding tool on a dremel and grind the smaller back side rivet of the wheel, take care to only grind away the rivet and not the assembly or it will weaken it.
Make certain the OD of the new wheel is close to the right size, you do not want to go too large or it will most likely bind on the assembly. Use the pic above for reference if you go to Home Depot or take the broken one with you to the hardware store. I liked the packet because it had the bolt/nut. I just added a lock washer for security.
Now that you got the wheel on you will notice the cable seems shorter and will not fit over the wheel. This is a good thing, becuase the cable requires adequate tension. If your recall the 3 nuts that were removed, they were mounted on rubber clad two way bolts, remove the two that are on the assembly, route the cable on and re-mount the bolts with some tension, one to align and the other for the tension.
Note the bottom wheel require the cable to be routed over a metal guide tab, make certain it is in the proper position.
Now test to insure the cable and slide moves as designed.
That's it, install in reverse order.
Jim
I didn't want to bore peops, but here it goes!
Symptoms
Window does not move and a Grinding Noise as one uses the switch.
Panel Removal
Use a 10MM socket to remove the bolt from the top portion of the pull handle ( it so happens to be the top portion of the window regulator ).
Using a needle nose, hold the door latch rod and remove from back of the chrome door release lever. Once released slide the lever handle cover forward and pull away from the panel.
Now here is the tricky part, resist the urge to pull the panel from the door, they are not installed by plastic push pins/tabs like GM's and Japanese cars, instead they are hooked in by plastic tabs. It requires you slide the panel up about 1/2-1" to remove from the door.
Don't pull away just yet, you will notice the switch hooked up to the panel, gently push it out of the panel, You will need this hooked up for the test.
Remove the window felt guide.
Window Regulator
Here you should see what the issue is, If lucky, your cable will be un-wound, if not it will be the Plastic Slide assembly. If assembly, you will need to rebuild it or buy a new regulator. I rebuilt the passenger side with JB weld, 2 years later still working
Let's say you are lucky and it is the cable un-wound due to a broken top or bottom wheel.
Remove the 3 nuts and 1 bolt that holds the regulator in the door. Raise the regulator with the window to release from the top mount bracket and now release the black stay tab on window to the sliding assembly, this is how you seperate the window from the regulator. TAKE CARE not to allow the glass to slam down the door, it is very expensive if it shatters.
Grab the glass and slide it all the way up and tape in place.
Now with the regulator freely floating around in the door. Manuver the top portion back in an angle so the regulator will come out motor first, release the tab holding the switch so you can get enough slack on the wires to pull out the door to work on the wheel/s.
Observe which wheel is trashed and commence using a sanding tool on a dremel and grind the smaller back side rivet of the wheel, take care to only grind away the rivet and not the assembly or it will weaken it.
Make certain the OD of the new wheel is close to the right size, you do not want to go too large or it will most likely bind on the assembly. Use the pic above for reference if you go to Home Depot or take the broken one with you to the hardware store. I liked the packet because it had the bolt/nut. I just added a lock washer for security.
Now that you got the wheel on you will notice the cable seems shorter and will not fit over the wheel. This is a good thing, becuase the cable requires adequate tension. If your recall the 3 nuts that were removed, they were mounted on rubber clad two way bolts, remove the two that are on the assembly, route the cable on and re-mount the bolts with some tension, one to align and the other for the tension.
Note the bottom wheel require the cable to be routed over a metal guide tab, make certain it is in the proper position.
Now test to insure the cable and slide moves as designed.
That's it, install in reverse order.
Jim
Last edited by DRACO; 11-05-2011 at 03:18 PM.
01-31-2012, 02:10 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Ah thanks Brother.
Wait till I post my version of the Head Gasket removal/replacement. I found an easy way compared to the MBZ shop manual.
Notice, exhaust and intake was removed to make things a heck of allot easier, just extra bolts/nuts but vacuum lines and wires are intact.
Wait till I post my version of the Head Gasket removal/replacement. I found an easy way compared to the MBZ shop manual.
Notice, exhaust and intake was removed to make things a heck of allot easier, just extra bolts/nuts but vacuum lines and wires are intact.
01-31-2012, 09:48 PM
#7
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09 335i 03 CLK55 AMG
You made my day with this post, I can't believe I didn't see it sooner.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...tuck-help.html
My rear window from my 2003 CLK55 has the same thing going on. Like a crunching / grinding noise with the window not going anywhere. I think it has to be the same thing that happened to you. Hopefully getting the panel off will be as easy as it was in your car and I can do the fix myself.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...tuck-help.html
My rear window from my 2003 CLK55 has the same thing going on. Like a crunching / grinding noise with the window not going anywhere. I think it has to be the same thing that happened to you. Hopefully getting the panel off will be as easy as it was in your car and I can do the fix myself.
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01-31-2012, 09:56 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
"Crunch & Grind" is the loose cable going into the winder of the motor.
Try not to play with it too much or the cable could be crimped so bad the fix may not work
You may be lucky it may be just off the track, but if it is the same plastic wheel, the brass wheel will last you a life time.
If you don't have the factory manual, make certain all screws are off before you attempt to slide up and off the panel. You don't want to brak the very fragile plastic clips, ask me how I know
Check under trim covers, check every where. Be patient.
Jim
Try not to play with it too much or the cable could be crimped so bad the fix may not work
You may be lucky it may be just off the track, but if it is the same plastic wheel, the brass wheel will last you a life time.
If you don't have the factory manual, make certain all screws are off before you attempt to slide up and off the panel. You don't want to brak the very fragile plastic clips, ask me how I know
Check under trim covers, check every where. Be patient.Jim
You made my day with this post, I can't believe I didn't see it sooner.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...tuck-help.html
My rear window from my 2003 CLK55 has the same thing going on. Like a crunching / grinding noise with the window not going anywhere. I think it has to be the same thing that happened to you. Hopefully getting the panel off will be as easy as it was in your car and I can do the fix myself.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...tuck-help.html
My rear window from my 2003 CLK55 has the same thing going on. Like a crunching / grinding noise with the window not going anywhere. I think it has to be the same thing that happened to you. Hopefully getting the panel off will be as easy as it was in your car and I can do the fix myself.
01-31-2012, 11:53 PM
#9
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09 335i 03 CLK55 AMG
"Crunch & Grind" is the loose cable going into the winder of the motor.
Try not to play with it too much or the cable could be crimped so bad the fix may not work
You may be lucky it may be just off the track, but if it is the same plastic wheel, the brass wheel will last you a life time.
If you don't have the factory manual, make certain all screws are off before you attempt to slide up and off the panel. You don't want to brak the very fragile plastic clips, ask me how I know Check under trim covers, check every where. Be patient.
Jim
Try not to play with it too much or the cable could be crimped so bad the fix may not work
You may be lucky it may be just off the track, but if it is the same plastic wheel, the brass wheel will last you a life time.
If you don't have the factory manual, make certain all screws are off before you attempt to slide up and off the panel. You don't want to brak the very fragile plastic clips, ask me how I know
Check under trim covers, check every where. Be patient.Jim
06-21-2012, 12:11 AM
#10
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Audi A4
If you can't find the window regulator clip, I offer them for many Mercedes-Benz applications here: RegulatorFix.com
Use coupon code: FORUM20 to get 20% off
Use coupon code: FORUM20 to get 20% off
07-28-2012, 08:42 AM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Your solution is wonderful. There are a plethora of cars this can be adapted to. Perhaps you could move/ copy it to one of the tech sections? Should be a sticky.
When I have a chance I'll post a picture of my inner driver door opener latch for my G. Another HD fix!
When I have a chance I'll post a picture of my inner driver door opener latch for my G. Another HD fix!
05-18-2013, 07:37 AM
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Mercedes 190e
Great post DRACO, just what I was looking for, any other DIY or "fixes" you know please shoot um my way jut bought a 1993 190e 2.6 ya it needs some tlc and work arounds
Thanks again
Thanks again
05-18-2013, 10:53 AM
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Welcome aboard Dooley,
My pleasure, you have last of the beasts there, try looking at my stats, it has other DIY to Cylinder Head gasket replacement.
I also recommend 190Rev site, more 2.6 owners there.
Remember our cars do not use green radiator coolant, got to get the MBZ stuff or the GOLD colored jug one from your FLAPS.
Another point the 300e and c220's alternators are interchangeable.
Pick Your Parts is your best friend
PM me if you have any questions or concerns,
Jim
My pleasure, you have last of the beasts there
, try looking at my stats, it has other DIY to Cylinder Head gasket replacement.I also recommend 190Rev site, more 2.6 owners there.
Remember our cars do not use green radiator coolant, got to get the MBZ stuff or the GOLD colored jug one from your FLAPS.
Another point the 300e and c220's alternators are interchangeable.
Pick Your Parts is your best friend
PM me if you have any questions or concerns,
Jim
