dolucasi

You seem like you are the kind of guy who may have a drill press. Do you?

dolucasi

Here is a fitting I made from a steel metric bolt. Cut off the head and drill thru the middle. You need 2 nuts for tightening.
I made this before I purchased the fuel gauge that came with the correct fittings. You will need to drill it perfectly at a 90 degree angle which is why you need a drill press.

rufrob

There are so many tools I'd love to have. Buuuuutttttt here in Tokyo space is at a premium.
I pulled the CSV and though there was fuel in the line, a lot of pressure I may add, nothing was getting to the CSV. Plugged for sure because it clicks. Of course I left my carb cleaner at home.

rufrob

Soaked the CSV in vinegar overnight. Sloshed it around a bit and you can see the debris

dolucasi

Sure looks like that had seen better days. After you are done with it, since it is out do not install it but rather plug in the electrical connector from the harness and place it in a jar in the engine bay. Crank cold and see if it activates and sprays for 2 seconds. And see if it stops spaying. If all's checked install it and forget about it for a while.

rufrob

Can't I measure the l chambers separately?

dolucasi

Yes you can. A bit more difficult but can be done. I would measure the system pressure first. Carefully write it down don't go on memory. Actually better yet take a picture with your phone. That should not change over time.
Then hook up the control pressure and make sure it is 0.4Bar lower. And if not adjust it to be 0.4Bar lower than what you see in the picture.

- Cheers!

190Efan

Looks like some progress might finally be being made. I've been suspecting there was some plugging going on. This might not be the only evidence of it.

rufrob

I've touched almost every part of this cars fuel system. Can't think of anything else to touch.

dolucasi

The fuel pressure and differential is pretty fundamental to the operation of the emissions. Without that no other adjustment/replacement will work.
Fortunately, once it is set correctly, it stays correct until a key component is replaced (being fuel pump, FPR, FD, EHA valve, injectors). So many many years.

Let's see what your fuel pressure readings reveal.

rufrob

The upper chamber


The CSV is still plugged. I borrowed one from a friends MK2 Golf.
It flooded right away.

rufrob

I got a 0 reading for the lower chamber but I think it's because used the wrong port

I can't access the proper port with this gauge.

rufrob

After 30min of idle fluctuation it finally calmed down and gives a steady idle. And restarts when hot. Drives slightly better but still no power
Needs 2 tries to restart when hot then the idle
fluctuates for about 5 mins then settles at 1000rpm.

rufrob

Dropped by the specialist one of his customers cars

rufrob

Off @80degrees
3-2=3.67
6-2=12.11
On @2100rpm
3-2=6.80
6-2=13.65
Fluctuation 1500-2000rpm
3-2=6.73-6.76
6-2=13.67-13.68 Fan on 13.42
@1000rpm
3-2=6.66
6-2=13.55

rufrob

Only 57000km

dolucasi

Among other issues, you also have a fuel pressure leak. Not sure if it is due to your gauge hook-up. Do you smell gas now after the hook up?
Your fuel pressure takes a bit to build up and quickly leaks back down to 0. Not good, but that may not cause running issues, assuming the issue is not the FD causing the leak or the injectors.
Sometimes this is due to the measurement itself (leaky hook-up/gauge etc)
If not you will have to fix that too. Your system should hold pressure at above 3 bar and keep it there for hours after the engine is turned off.

But you need to be able to measure the control pressure first. You went to the specialist so he showed you the control pressure port, correct?
Hopefully you can hook up to it.

rufrob

I know where the control port is but I'll need a 90Degree attachment to clear the intake manifold.
I didn't notice any leak during the test but I don't know the condition of the gauge. I don't think it was ever used before.
The specialist also said it should be holding pressure longer and the pressure was too high.
The FPR is used but at least it didn't leak from the vacuum port like the original one. Maybe it's from a w124 which I assume runs a higher pressure.

rufrob

Forgot to mention when I unplugged the eha the idle went higher to about 2200rpm.

dolucasi

I believe that is normal behavior. Mine does the same (but of course lower rpms) meaning the rpms increase if EHA is unplugged.

dolucasi

Strange that you need a special attachment for the control port. Not so on a 6cyl FD. Also these gauges are not that accurate anyway
I do not think your pressure is high, it is the same as mine and I always thought a 4cyl FD is set to the same pressure as my 6cyl. The quick pressure loss is a concern.

190Efan

This car at your specialist is an EVO II so it's not a direct comparison to your car. What if any differences there might be between your car and an EVO II engine wise, I'm not sure.

rufrob

After letting it sit for a couple of days it fired up right away and idled normally!!! I put it on a flatbed to take it to the bodyshop so I don't know the drivability.
Hurray for the used CSV.!!

dolucasi

Great to hear. Since your idle issue sounds more like an electrical issue, I suspect it may return. But if it does not, this is great!
Check your X11 Duty cycle again, I suspect it is still reporting an issue. The cold start valve cleaning would not have altered it, but if the issue is gone some electrical connector may have been jostled inadvertently.

- Cheers!

rufrob

Got a call from the bodyshop. The car starts and idle fine and goes into gear fine but stalls when the throttle is applied. In park it revs a bit then stalls.
I forgot to bring my multimeter so I have to go back home to get it.
Also noticed the FP is noisy. Didn't do that when I dropped it off.
Wonder if it's out of gas again.