BetterDaze

Since owning my car I have had to get the door locks repaired twice once each side and now we are looking at a third and fourth! The driver door will not lock with the key anymore, the pull tab is sticking about halfway with key fully to the right. The passenger side neither locks nor unlocks with key and been that way for a while

I can get into my car no problem but can only lock it from the trunk or reaching around to push the tab down from the rear door. I don’t want my trunk lock getting worn like the other two and its become rather annoying and expensive…

id like to just modernize the car with keyless entry for convenience and safety.

is this doable for cheap and am I using the doors wrong haha because wth,


lastly happy thanksgiving !!!

LauraS

I am not a electric whiz by any means but when the driver entry/ignition key started getting sticky I bought a new key but also a keyless entry module and with the instructions and help from Dolucasi if I recall correctly I installed it under the rear seat in a matter of a few minutes and that was about 3 or 4 years ago. Very inexpensive and worth ever penny. If I have to use the key I operate the locks with the trunk lock. I bought it either on Amazon or Ebay. I can probably find the brand name if you want it. I added a loner antenna as well to increase the range. I can with two key pads and the original battery still keeps it working. One of the best features I ever installed myself.

dolucasi

As Laura mentioned, I resisted adding the keyless entry in the beginning since I did not have any lock issues. But having done it I have no regrets. Super convenient, super easy, super cheap.
The only thing I would advise is that when you install it make it plug and play so that you can either replace the central pump or the keyless entry easily. These cheapo units can fail and mine has once in 5 years. I just ordered the same brand and replaced it. It was under $20.

355190e26

I did the same setup as well. Dolucasi is right though that the units don't last a terribly long time, I think mine went about 2 years.
My other car has a full Python alarm w/ keyless entry and remote start, but that was professional installed by an alarm shop about 12 years ago.
The shop that I used (who has a lot of MB experience) told me that their most basic keyless setup would use a Compustar setup hooked up to the vacuum pump trigger wires.

BetterDaze

Looks like I’m super late on this mod lol, What brand did you go with? I don’t mind replacing it every so often, like I said my doors have failed multiple times

dolucasi

This is the last one I ordered. There are two types of connectors to the boxes. You want the one that is more common so that you can just swap in a new and maybe different brand if the original fails. Instructions are generally vey poor on most units I have seen but they all work. There used to be many brands/sellers. They all are about the same really. Go with the one in which the remote is more to your liking. I liked the one below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254698156449

BetterDaze

Thanks I got that one,simple and not too bulky

dolucasi

Betterdaze, one detail you need to decide on is which lights to hook up to the unit for operational feeback.

You will need to pull some wires from the back of the rear seat and connect the control signal to either the:

Turn lights
Parking lights

I tried both an the parking lights are more visible and looks better.
Particularly if you converted to the Euro lights and used an LED bulb for parking lights. They are brighter than tunsten equivalents.

BetterDaze

I think all four corners make the most sense, and possibly the horn? I have the remote kit and some time this week. To make this plug and play am I alright to use wago wire connectors

dolucasi

These units need a piezo electric chirper. Can not drive a magnetic horn. You can probably buy a stock toyota piezo chirper and just hook it up.
You can place the piezo chirper inside the right rear wheel well close to the pump.
May require some fiddling. I wanted to but never went forward with it.

The connections to the power and ground should be soldered to the existing wires somehow. They carry 2-3 amps of current.
I used a splicing connector that taps in the existing wire but after I wedged it, opened the connector and soldered it. Otherwise I was getting intermittent operational failure.
The ones that wedge in and have a bullet connector to connect to the unit are very convenient for this and also you are not cutting the existing wiring in the car.

dolucasi

This would work nicely. While it is open, like in the picture, just solder that connection.

BetterDaze

Thanks dolucasi , I was planning to use something similar by Waco. I put the car away for a little bit but will install it soon