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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Currently your connection is backwards. White needs to go to the pump, black/orange to the doors/trunk. You have that backwards.
The photo does not cover enough. Is the blue/yellow/green bundle a short extender going to yet another male/female jumper? Looks like it.
If so, that whole bundle would be replaceable, so you can cut it and get another one from a junk yard . But I can not tell from your photo.
You are correct that end of the blue/green/yellow bundle should not be touched.
Thanks dolucasi, hopefully these are better. Which line is to the doors and trunk?
the male/female bumper detaches but both ends are bundled to some heavier wires that lead to the unknown inside of the cars body…it would not be easy to replace it seems.
I undid white and orange/black for now, white had the caps backwards and not actually tapped in. I think I’m missing something….what wire in my photo do I need to tap those to?
white can stay where it is…. And orange/black to either green or yellow?
I realize that the single mainline in the module diagram is actually the combined (green,blue,yellow) on the car
Last edited by BetterDaze; Mar 31, 2024 at 05:07 PM.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
The wire labelled "main line" in the diagram is any one of the 3 lines, not all 3. Blue or yellow or green.
The unit only needs to activate one of those. The central locking unit for these cars operate on any one of the 3 wires (driver or passenger doors or trunk)
You seem to have picked blue randomly, you should stick with that one. And you leave the other 2 alone (green and yellow)
The operation is as follows for your case:
The untouched wires (yellow or green) will activate the pump with a key (in the correct direction)
When you turn the key for the blue lock, that signal goes thru the wireless unit and it still activated the pump (in the correct direction)
When you activate with the wireless the unit uses the blue line to activate the unit (in the correct direction, it needs to know which direction and uses the value on the blue line)
The only caveat is that the line you chose (the blue one) needs to be operational I believe. Meaning if there is something wrong on the lock of that one I believe it will intervene with this operation.
I think you said your trunk works for sure, so if I were you to make sure I would use the trunk line. If I am not mistaken that might be the yellow one.
Have a look at your trunk lock, is the wire there green, blue or yellow? I think it might be visible at the lock.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Betterdaze, I checked my trunk lock and I see a yellow wire in there, so my recollection is probably correct, yellow is the trunk one. I'll check the wiring diagram in my manual next.
Added: Unfortunately, the central locking is not included in either Hanes Manual I have. But I'm pretty confident yellow is the trunk.
Does your central locking work from passenger door lock? I know you said the driver side does not work. If the passenger does not work either, then I'm confident you will need the yellow one.
Last edited by dolucasi; Mar 31, 2024 at 10:51 PM.
All my lock tabs work it’s just that the key turns in both the driver or passenger side but the door lock tabs don’t lift or go down. Pushing the tabs down from within locks everything fine. I picked blue based on the diagram saying blue/green.
I will switch the orange/black and white locations I had before. I’m mainly confused on what line to disconnect and where, I prefer to not cut anything
i think there is a slight difference in the this system between late and early 201s based on a few old threads but not 100% sure
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
If all your lock's work electrically than there should be no problem. After you reverse the hook-up at the blue wire first test to see if the central locking still is operable from the trunk.
Then program the wireless, put the jumper in the right spot for vacuum pump system and it should all work.
Awesome, thanks for your patience dolucasi. I know I ask a lot .. but that’s just how my brain works, I have to understand everything even what doesn’t work haha. another issue with this forum is I cannot type my reply and view your response at the same
time, I sort of have to remember what you said and edit after
I’ll finish this project later today and update.
I’ll record a video of my door locks’ too, my indie said they put in a used tumbler 4 years ago. The butterfly rod(not sold separate) is what broke within and the fact that the passenger door had broken twice already too makes me want to wait for an upgraded door lock but that is $370 per door from classics center! This 20 dollar module will do for now lol
i might do the driver door only in near future
Last edited by BetterDaze; Apr 1, 2024 at 11:34 AM.
I swapped white and orange/black and it works on the first press but after that no functionality.
I assume without the split in the mainline the unit is not remembering which signal it originally sent and unable to lock/unlock. The door/trunk(i tried both set ups) become inoperative after the first initial remote press.
I didn’t want to cut any wires but if I have to it will be the green passenger side door as I use it least. The idea would be to cut it in a way where I can reconnect its two ends with a wago snap on wire tap and it’ll be like it was never cut, or pull it from the plastic connector tab,thoughts?
Last edited by BetterDaze; Apr 1, 2024 at 06:27 PM.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Originally Posted by BetterDaze
I swapped white and orange/black and it works on the first press but after that no functionality.
I assume without the split in the mainline the unit is not remembering which signal it originally sent and unable to lock/unlock. The door/trunk(i tried both set ups) become inoperative after the first initial remote press.
I didn’t want to cut any wires but if I have to it will be the green passenger side door as I use it least. The idea would be to cut it in a way where I can reconnect its two ends with a wago snap on wire tap and it’ll be like it was never cut, or pull it from the plastic connector tab,thoughts?
Yes, you need to cut the main line you choose to use. It will not work without that being cut. So yes cutting the green line in your case is the best choice. Send a picture of the plastic connector. If that is the connector you already posted, that appears to be a permanent connector, I would not mess with that. You may have to cut the wire itself after you moved your T connectors from the blue to the green. Are you sure the green is the passenger side? I never found a wiring diagram that included the central locking.
Yeah I did a trial and error connecting the white and orange black wires to each, green is the passenger door for sure
I think the front BGY bundle goes directly to the doors through the floor board and the latter bundle after the connector goes to the pump and trunk.
I’ll move the W and OB wires down a little and snip green a bit further away. It’s seems easier to replace the BGY bundle on the pump than trying to reach through the bottom of the car and reach that harness
Yes I tested one by one everything works, my lock problem is definitely mechanical.
we had some severe rain and tornado warnings and I can finally wrap this up today...
When I cut Yellow between the t-taps what should I do with the now exposed ends? Is it okay to electrical tape them or should I use additional t-taps to leave nothing exposed?
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Since those two connections are no longer T, you could have used standard connectors (1 to 1) bullet type or other types.
But since you have the T's already you can use these type connectors. Just stick one wire in each if you have the length. Then, if you need to bypass the wireless unit for any reason you can unplug the wireless dongle and jam both ends into one of these connectors (after exposing the wires).
I do not recall but I may have used actual Mercedes connectors from the ERA for a professional look but that is for extra credit.
But my recommendation is to just get rid of the T connectors and convert to these types instead. They are used a lot in electronics labs as a quick connect for any voltage (yes 110V as well) and current (Amps) level.
In my pictures above if you find white/black and orange I used wago connectors just like that and made sure green(typo above saying yellow) was in the outside and the units wires on the inside.
the system works and I’m excited to not strain my keys and locks anymore but seems to struggle to kick the pins up, I bet it’s just due to not being set to pneumatic like you said that would increase the signal duration?
also talked to my grandpa and this might be an aftermarket key from the owner before him smh I bet that is why this kept happening I’m going to get a real one from the dealer and just keep my current keys for emergency
Last edited by BetterDaze; Apr 3, 2024 at 05:37 PM.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Yes you have to change to pneumatic which increases the duration of the signal to more than 1 second. The pneumatic system needs time to create the vacuum/pressure and that duration is needed. I had (now bypassed) orthopedic seats that used the same pump/system when I installed the keyless entry and the system barely worked even with the pnuematic selection because it had to pump air into the pneumatic ortho seat bladders as well.
On the keys, it is a mixed bag. I have about 6 keys for my Mercedes, probably 4 more than I need. 3 of these are originals and the other 3 are the ones I ordered when I had to change out the ignition lock tumbler a few years ago. The original keys work on both doors, trunk, and new ignition lock. The new keys certainly work on the new ignition but struggle in the other "worn-out" locks. We can say, they do not work.
The keys and tumblers tend to wear out together for a lifetime of usage, but when you have a mix of old and new locks you may run into trouble. So beware of that.
All this being said order your extra keys now because the Dealership will not provide them forever. Most parts are going NLA at the dealership.
Also if you have an aftermarket key, chances are you also have an aftermarket lock somewhere. Is there one master key that work on all the locks?
It is a long story but I have a set of aftermarket (Febi) ignition lock and key in my parts shelf that I have not discarded yet. Even though they are brand knew they are junk.
I plan to get two from the dealer today , and I never noticed one of my keys has MB logo the other has a faded “locksmith” etching. the rubber material ripped off the original MB key soon after I got the car so I always used the other
Discovered that the keyless module works almost always while I’m walking towards the side of the car where antenna is. So i don’t mind …just have to alter my path a bit before entering.
also got brand new keys from the dealer and it shows me how severely worn my original is. Def get refreshed keys if you can
Last edited by BetterDaze; Apr 16, 2024 at 12:20 PM.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Did you leave the unit's antenna entirely under the seat? There's a lot of metal around it under the seat. I have mine snuck thru and about 6 inches outside the seat at the bottom. I may have extended it. With this set-up mine works from about 40-50 feet away in any direction.
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Originally Posted by BetterDaze
I pulled the antenna out some but it has slipped back under the seat . Did you just attach a similar wire to the antenna?
it seems to work best from about 10-15 feet
I think I ended up attaching a similar wire to the antenna wire, just long enough to stick out about 4-5 inches. My limit is about 40-50 feet. It is pretty reliable from 30 feet or so.
Bumping this thread since I've been thinking about adding keyless/remote entry to my 190e. The wiring diagram is unclear as dolucasi says, but this thread helped clear that up for me... so thanks guys.
My only question is whether you guys would still recommend the same keyless system. Understandably these inexpensive electronics have a limited lifespan, so I'd plan to buy an extra or two, but besides this minor drawback, are there any other problems that would make you want to buy a different system?
The system I have is still holding up but it is annoying at times because as the fob battery fades it’s does not open the doors consistently nor at the same distances. If I were ever in a rush to get into my vehicle for some reason this fob could be a risk so I l tend to leave my doors unlocked if my car is within my view. The icons on the remote will fade pretty quickly too not really a big deal. I’m sure you can get much better ones but mine does what I need it to for now and I have a spare unit as back up
190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
I'm happy with this system. In the last 9 years one failed. I have two of them. When they fail,. it is plug and play for $20.
I believe I have one extra for the 2 cars I have. So out of 3 units I installed only one failed after 7 years.
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