Sprint Booster - Car behaving like a monster and hungry for speed
60 Minutes lost a lot of credibility on that one.I've got same basic mods as you do. I'm very happy with it. It's the initial "wtf - where's the power?" lag that I've always had in my car that now is not there. If you could fully depress the gas pedal immediately, it would do the same thing; obviously, you can't, so that's not really a valid alternative.
i heard the auto sb and manual sb are two different as far as aggressiveness. there was a rumor going around that you could put the manual sb on the auto and it would be more aggressive then the auto sb on auto. any of this true?
if thats the case, then im all about the manual sb on auto.
i heard the auto sb and manual sb are two different as far as aggressiveness. there was a rumor going around that you could put the manual sb on the auto and it would be more aggressive then the auto sb on auto. any of this true?
if thats the case, then im all about the manual sb on auto.
SLK...If you're out there, please email me to let me know things are cool and I'll fix the PayPal problem.
I emailed you like 8 times since I bought the Booster and have heard absolutely nothing from you in a month now.
Please let me know what the deal is...its been a long time now....If you are just on vacation or something then Im cool with that....just email me to let me know what's up.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
BTW, who said it's 15mins job???
Putting back the pedal assembly can take the whole day!
Seriously, here is the complete installation instructions(I put together forum members' advices scattered across the forum) and just add mine for reassemling step which can make your life a lot easier.1A. Remove the platic cap with flat bed screw driver (pic 1)
1B. Remove the 10mm bolt nut & washer(pic 1)
2. OK, before you remove the pedal assembly, look at this picture 2 carefully. Remember which tab is inside and which is outside. Especally number 2, I will talk about this tab later. (pic 2)
3. Remove the rubish plastic panel below the dashboard. Just unscrwew five T15 bolts and poped it out. (You do not have to remove it completely). We make it loose so that we can move the pedal assembly easily. Unless you want to see the insalltion meterial visible after installtion(as seen from some pics in this thread), do not skip this step.
4. Now remove the depal assembly, push upward -> rotate -> pull out. (pic 3)
5. Disconnect the connector. As Tommy described before, one side is "flat" surfaced and the other is rounded. Just match each side when you connect SB in between. See the pic. (pic 4 & pic 5)
6. Now put back the pedal assembly. As some some said before, "There is a square notch that the top of the pedal assy. has to go into. If the wire gets stuck in there it doesn't install correctly." If you did step 3, you can easily take care of both problems. Put your hand inside to guide while you puting back the assembly in. Without step 3, this can take forever. Now you put back the 10mm bolt nut & washer and tighten it.
7. Now adjust the rubber plastic panel(step3), so that the tabs I mentioned(step2) positioned correctly. Put the five T15 bolts back.
8. That's it. Now time to have some fun!
CT i just noticed your sig says modified airbox. What exactly did you do to it if I may ask?
Last several days, I fell in love again with my 05 230K SS thanks to SB, I highly recommend to anyone who believe ours are "SPORT" sedan/coupe. C class is truly beatiful car in and out, it really deserves better throttle response (and the better shifter
)Thanks ctC230K and everyone who answered all my questions previously!
You are responsible for my speeding tickets
Last several days, I fell in love again with my 05 230K SS thanks to SB, I highly recommend to anyone who believe ours are "SPORT" sedan/coupe. C class is truly beatiful car in and out, it really deserves better throttle response (and the better shifter
)Thanks ctC230K and everyone who answered all my questions previously!
You are responsible for my speeding tickets






I want to know what's inside this thing.
Can't someone be just a tiny bit technical?
How many pins is it?
Analyze the basic funtionality of the gas pedal?
A potentiometer? Rheostat? Digital or analog?
Resistance range before, and after SB?
Anyone out there know how to work a freakin' ohm meter?
C'mon, isn't there someone out there CURIOUS enough to determine
just WTF this thing is? I'm betting it's just a resistor.
a $250 resistor.
Whats it going to take to get someone to give some serious feedback, instead
OOOOooo I LOVE my Sprint Booster!!!
Frickin' make me puke.

East Esotonian crap.
Actually turns out it's made in Greece.
Perfect. And the price is going up.
Time to uh...(I hate to say it BUTT....) bend over and pay 300 for $1 in electronic components?
Sweet.
Where's Buell when you need him.
Man, developing the M111 pulley, those were the days.
Y'all have gone soft.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Apr 3, 2007 at 02:32 AM.




BTW, who said it's 15mins job???

Thanks for taking the time.
How many pins is it?
Analyze the basic funtionality of the gas pedal?
A potentiometer? Rheostat? Digital or analog?
Resistance range before, and after SB?
Anyone out there know how to work a freakin' ohm meter?
C'mon, isn't there someone out there CURIOUS enough to determine
just WTF this thing is? I'm betting it's just a resistor.
a $250 resistor.
Whats it going to take to get someone to give some serious feedback, instead
OOOOooo I LOVE my Sprint Booster!!!
Frickin' make me puke.





I just got laid off, and I still need to paint the new rear bumper sitting in my closet. Thats got priority.
I'm just surprised at the lack of curiosity.
We'd all be spending 1-2 grand for a pulley if somone hadn't been curious and
didn't feel like spending 1-2 grand for something that shouldn't cost anywhere near that.




Will sprint booster work in my car? If so, where and how can I purchase it?
Thanks in advance for any info.
Last edited by Tech-Tune; Apr 3, 2007 at 07:41 PM.




Wish me luck



