The wait is over!
Tom sent me an email to that effect. Your wives work together, eh? Small world.
Last edited by boxboss; May 19, 2007 at 06:40 PM.
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
Last edited by boxboss; May 19, 2007 at 06:46 PM.
The stainless part has 4 pins that need to be removed. These are not the same as the 4 pins previously discussed. The 4 pins are on the part that wraps over the back and down. There are no holes in the bumper for these. I clipped these off with wire cutters and filed/sanded them smooth - 10 minutes max for all 4. One of these pins is shown in picture 3 - with white paper underneath for clarity.
The stainless L's are a perfect match for the holes in the bumper for the OEM part. The stainless L's look different from the OEM L's, but function the same. They fit by friction - and tightly. I put a strip of 3M mounting tape along the downward facing edge as a precaution - but this probably isn't even necessary - the clips fit into the holes very tightly. Picture 4 shows the tape and stainless L's. Put your tape (if you decide to use it) as close to the bend as you can, without going into the bend. My tape could have been closer to the bend in the part, downward in the picture.
Remove the red backing from the tape (if you use it) and place the stainless L's into the holes in the bumper. Hold the piece firmly down against the bumper - you may want a helper. I bumped the downward facing piece forward with the heel of my hand, working left to right, to get the L's to slide forward under the bumper holes. This is a lot easier when you're doing it than it sounds. The L's slid into place and I'm good to go. Finished plate is the last picture. It was actually really easy. Of course, if you want to go 100% tape you can, but there's a lot more pins and L's to remove.
BTW, I was able to retrieve the broken off metal nuts by shining a flashlight into the holes (picture 2) and using a large bamboo skewer to insert into the nut and pull it up to the edge of the bumper hole and grab it. This is easier to do than write about. You can also gain access from underneath the bumper. Be sure to do it before you put on the stainless plate so you can see light shining through the holes. Good luck!
Great job Box.......! And.....great pics.!
Great post and love the pics! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It really is amazing how much better the chrome looks on the vehicle.
Looking forward to seeing the new wheels after you have them installed. Enjoy the cool weather while it lasts!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
So glad you're happy with your GL. Great pics, too.
2) Get the bumper plate at your MB dealer - it is an EU OEM part. I have the part number at work and will post it tomorrow. List is ~$200 but my dealer matched MB of Eugene (Oregon) online price of ~$169.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife
, on why the 20's are a necessity.Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.
Right now, on my computer screen I've got the nearly identical shots you took of the 18's on Friday plastered right beside the new Pirelli 20's on Sunday. I'm like a kid in the candy store ready to make my pitch to Mom, er wife
, on why the 20's are a necessity.Enjoy the ride and thanks for posting pics of the new beast. BTW, I love your property... looks like an absolutely beautiful setting.

GLDriver - seriously, your White looks great also. I love the look of skid plates on white. I think they look better than on Black.



