HELP - GEARBOX SURGE, E320, W211, 2004
http://www.sonnax.com/publications/c...shudder-part-i
part 2
http://www.sonnax.com/publications/c...shudder-part-2
What's the long-term effect of just leaving this alone? If it's just sub-optimal fluid flow for the first mile, it might not be that big a deal. I would obviously like to fix the problem, but want to weigh the cost versus benefit.
Does this ultimately lead to early failure, or is it just something that's kind of annoying?
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I have changed the torque converter which improved it but there is still a slight vibration at low revs.
I spoke to the reconditioner and he said that around 2001 mercedes changed the lockup regime so the gearbox locked up at a much lower speeds. This was to help fuel consumption but meant more vibration is transmitted from the engine.
I mentioned the sonnax lockup clutch spring solution and he reckoned that it will result in a loss of lockup completely.
Please let me know how you get on.
Thanks
Adam
Of course, it may get worse in the winter but I'll deal with it then if necessary.
Adam, when I read the Sonnax writeup I thought the same thing. Those extra springs could prevent full lockup, which would ultimately be a very bad thing for the transmission. Fluid temps would be higher than necessary, although it's probably OK with regular fluid changes.
One thing I'm curious about (mostly since I just thought of it and won't know until the morning when I try) is whether the same thing is as evident when starting out in comfort mode as opposed to standard? Since comfort starts in 2nd gear, it should be a lot harder to hit lockup at very slow speeds. Do you guys with this problem have the same issue when you hit the C/S button?
I'll try it in the morning, but as they say, anecdote does not equal evidence.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c7pDR83d_E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c7pDR83d_E
I had this exact problem with my previous car the 2004 - E320
and had the similar recommendations to rebuild the gearbox , but I came across an expert who solve it within 10 minutes for free,
i'll try to explain and excuse my weak English please;
the problem is not with the transmission it's dirt that accumulate at the end of air pipe at the junction with the engine, so have the mechanic remove the air filter hod and clean the pipe which located down at this site, I hope this will solve the problem
Best wishes
I had this exact problem with my previous car the 2004 - E320
and had the similar recommendations to rebuild the gearbox , but I came across an expert who solve it within 10 minutes for free,
i'll try to explain and excuse my weak English please;
the problem is not with the transmission it's dirt that accumulate at the end of air pipe at the junction with the engine, so have the mechanic remove the air filter hod and clean the pipe which located down at this site, I hope this will solve the problem
Best wishes
My E320 CDI does not have the same set up, all the pipes are clean , I still have the issue.
I may try that sensor that was suggested on this thread before.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...11-2004-a.html
Thanks, Greg
I would say initially it was 90% better, now after some 20,000+ miles, it is 75% better. I now firmly believe it is totally valve body wear. I will replace the valve body once it gets worse.
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, I agree. I just spoke with a few local MB mechanics(ind), one who used to work for the MB dealer said a lot of people came in with the cold weather torque converter lock up issue. MB ended up replacing a lot of valve bodies.
I then called the MB dealer and spoke to them about it.... it's like pulling teeth to get info, they just want you to come in a start with the diagnostic. Ultimately they said they take the pan off, replace whole valve body, filter and fluids. ~$1000. Researching for a friend of mine who has a 1999 MB CLK320 Coupe. I assume it's a 722.6 tranny based on what I have read.
Thanks again.
Bill

PS on edit. I believe the valve body runs somewhere in the ~$700-750 ranges, so some savings potential there if you are willing to get dirty.
Bill

PS on edit. I believe the valve body runs somewhere in the ~$700-750 ranges, so some savings potential there if you are willing to get dirty.
1) drain tranny fluid
2) disconnect connector that connects to valve body, drain pan, drop
3) remove valve body T30 bolts. replace with new torque to 71 in/lbs
4) new filter, gasket, fluid. need dip stick(or flex wire) and new locking cap too.
good video in your previous post.
Greg
yes, a lean condition would cause a surge too. I'm fairly confident that most of us on this thread are dealing with the torque converter lockup issue that is tranny related to the 722 valve body. it's almost like driving a manual and coming to a stop without pushing in the clutch.
fyi, I have had the whole FI system cleaned as well. no codes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c7pDR83d_E
Ordered the Torque Converter Control Solenoid, part number A 140 277 04 35
as described by wschubbe above and replaced it with the help of his link to the YouTube video.
Also did a filter and ATF replacement. Cleaned the gearbox sump with brake cleaner till spotless.
Car now runs exactly as it should. Delighted.
Thanks wschubbe.
The surging is annoying to say the least and this posting has given me some hope.
Thanks in advance
Richard



