Kleemann Header weld failure
#1
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So, just for ****s and kicks I thought I would post this and vent a little.
I recently purchased these kleemann headers. They were purchased used, but and I quote in "basically brand new" condition. Upon install, by myself, at my dealership, a 10 year master tech, not 10 miles later a sever leak had appeared.
Come to find out rear cyl on the right bank had totally separated from the flange. After removal, and closer inspection, it appears that the weld was not a good one. The weld should be the strongest point, and the metal around it should break before the weld. Now, I am not a welding expert. So if there are any chime in. But, from what I understand the temperature must not have been right, and the weld never penetrated properly. As I am not the original purchaser, Kleemann will not do anything.
Now I am left to have it repaired myself. I am almost worried that the same will happen to another flange, so may get them all re welded.
![](http://i45.tinypic.com/hst5wk.jpg)
![](http://i49.tinypic.com/9hp3id.jpg)
I recently purchased these kleemann headers. They were purchased used, but and I quote in "basically brand new" condition. Upon install, by myself, at my dealership, a 10 year master tech, not 10 miles later a sever leak had appeared.
Come to find out rear cyl on the right bank had totally separated from the flange. After removal, and closer inspection, it appears that the weld was not a good one. The weld should be the strongest point, and the metal around it should break before the weld. Now, I am not a welding expert. So if there are any chime in. But, from what I understand the temperature must not have been right, and the weld never penetrated properly. As I am not the original purchaser, Kleemann will not do anything.
Now I am left to have it repaired myself. I am almost worried that the same will happen to another flange, so may get them all re welded.
![](http://i45.tinypic.com/hst5wk.jpg)
![](http://i49.tinypic.com/9hp3id.jpg)
![](http://i50.tinypic.com/156zp5x.jpg)
#2
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Looking at the welds, I would assume they did not have the amperage set right for the type of metal in question. If I were you I would grind it down and re-weld it myself.
#5
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You bought used parts. Suck it up and repair it, and get back to life ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It could have been a problem in manufacturing, or it may have been fatigued after the fact. It would cost more to find out than what the header is worth, and most certainly more than a repair. That's a five minute job with a MIG.
For good results, tack it back in place on the car, then remove to get a clean weld. Or for best results, do the whole repair with it bolted to a spare head.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
It could have been a problem in manufacturing, or it may have been fatigued after the fact. It would cost more to find out than what the header is worth, and most certainly more than a repair. That's a five minute job with a MIG.
For good results, tack it back in place on the car, then remove to get a clean weld. Or for best results, do the whole repair with it bolted to a spare head.
#6
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Atleast it was a clean break. Grind it down, have it welded and go have fun again!!
I suspect it was a poor weld to begin with. Maybe poor penetration i dont know only did basic welding in school.
Looks simple enough to fix though. Unless you want to get rid of them cheap ill take them off your hands and fix them :P
I suspect it was a poor weld to begin with. Maybe poor penetration i dont know only did basic welding in school.
Looks simple enough to fix though. Unless you want to get rid of them cheap ill take them off your hands and fix them :P
#7
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Typically a weld is stronger than the surrounding steel by a factor of 10 (give or take).
That is a VERY easy fix and as everyone has chimed in and mentioned, grind it down, and make sure you have a good root weld and cap weld with thorough penetration.
Exhaust manifolds crack all the time, even super expensive ones, so don't feel bad.
That is a VERY easy fix and as everyone has chimed in and mentioned, grind it down, and make sure you have a good root weld and cap weld with thorough penetration.
Exhaust manifolds crack all the time, even super expensive ones, so don't feel bad.
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#8
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Every set of Kleemann headers I've ever seen, are uncoated, polished stainless steel.
Not trying to stir any pot, but are you sure you actually received what you think you purchased?
![](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z277/FabspeedMSP/Mercedes%20Benz/KleemannLeft.jpg)
Not trying to stir any pot, but are you sure you actually received what you think you purchased?
![](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z277/FabspeedMSP/Mercedes%20Benz/KleemannLeft.jpg)
![](http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z277/FabspeedMSP/Mercedes%20Benz/KleemannHeaders.jpg)
#11
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Thread Starter
It will be repaired. I'm making a solid flange to bolt it to to have it welded. As i dont have a spare head lying around There are cracks at the collector also. Will prob end up having them all rewelded, and TIG welded not MIG.
#12
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Easy to fix and if you like, you can ship it to me and I will weld them for you. You may also want to use flex couplings on your exhaust (if you dont have them) to dampen the vibration on all the pipes and welds.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
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#13
Now is also a good time to closely inspect your motor mounts. If they're going bad or are already bad, the resultant engine movement will easily crack most headers.
#15
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Actually, Aren't TIG welds more ductile than MIG? Maybe TIG would be the way to go here.
Last edited by 03'55AMG; 06-27-2012 at 03:53 PM.
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Good luck op.
#19
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It should be fixed tomarow but i'll be out of town till July 5th, so then will have to reinstall after that. As some of you know, and are currently without, it sucks not having the beast to drive!
Last edited by Shifter; 06-27-2012 at 09:56 PM.
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
#23
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Hopefully mine will last long....... but its only $1k new so if leaks just weld it. Even evosport shorties was more expensive than this mid range header.