GT/C192/R192: AMG Number 12!! Yes I got a GT63- Pics-Thoughts-Questions!
Via the app I have 7 modes from comfort to Race Plus which basically changes the throttle position to a more aggressive punch with much less effort thus making the car more responsive. I like a better reaction pedal than what the GT63 has so this does just that.
does the device have memory-as in it remembers your last throttle position chosen on the app or do you need to set it in the app every time you get in the car?




does the device have memory-as in it remembers your last throttle position chosen on the app or do you need to set it in the app every time you get in the car?
An added side effect in the positive is that you will end up driving your car even harder and faster which will get you more exhaust notes due to the throttle change.
An added side effect in the positive is that you will end up driving your car even harder and faster which will get you more exhaust notes due to the throttle change.




The Piggyback got me that extra power too-- I actually have quite a few roads and express ways where I can exercise this car to the relative limit. The AWD system is rather incredible too; is it better than my CS's X drive?? I dont know about that- BMW makes some rapid launchers as of late.
The Piggyback got me that extra power too-- I actually have quite a few roads and express ways where I can exercise this car to the relative limit. The AWD system is rather incredible too; is it better than my CS's X drive?? I dont know about that- BMW makes some rapid launchers as of late.




The Best of Mercedes & AMG




My comment about renntech is knowing them for 20 plus years and how they measure... you said 120 hp over stock thats crank LOL that does matter cause its a pack based on random correction. But agree its about a delta-- I used to run my crap e55 at famoso and on paper it was way less but in the real world it was a rip. We are on the same page but I just dont like how RT gouges for shi t
120 RT is ehhhh via crank for a piggy for 3800 bucks.
I need a dme tune
Last edited by Vic55; May 17, 2025 at 10:53 PM.
My comment about renntech is knowing them for 20 plus years and how they measure... you said 120 hp over stock thats crank LOL that does matter cause its a pack based on random correction. But agree its about a delta-- I used to run my crap e55 at famoso and on paper it was way less but in the real world it was a rip. We are on the same page but I just dont like how RT gouges for shi t
120 RT is ehhhh via crank for a piggy for 3800 bucks.
I need a dme tune
I have been building engines since high-school 40 years ago. Ive been lucky enough to have had my hands on most brands one way or the other over those 40 years. I always rent a dyno so I too can get a before and after. Like most tuners we arent so much concerned about the hp number the dyno spits out because all dynos measure different. All we are concerned about is the delta as this is my report card so to speak.
a custom tune from M engineering ( probably the best tuners in the nation specializing in exotic cars) for the gt is around 7500$. Renntech at 3800$ is a bargain in comparison. Dme tunes are around 3k so 800 cheaper than renntech. There are endless parameters in these tunes. It's not just about the feel in the *** dyno but more about how it all works together. All tuners kind of have their traits. Dme tunes tend to bring the torque in very low in the rpm range which feels very good via the *** dyno. However dumping full tq in under 3k has a tendency to bend rods. This is because its a bigger load than what the rods were designed for. On some brands this doesn't hurt the rods because they are more robust than the next brand. Some manufacturers are super vulnerable to bending rods via dme, mclaren is one of them. With all this said renntech brings their tq in much higher than dme which is much easier on rods. I have personally torn down motors that were tuned and running fine but had bent rods in it. They can run for a while bent slightly but will eventually break then blow a 12 in hole in the block.
When shopping for a tune the last thing you want to do is look for a cheaper one. You definitely get what you pay for. Renntech puts probably a dozen safeties in to protect the motor where dme does not put but just a few in. These kind of things are time consuming to write the code. This adds $ to the sales price hence you get what you pay for. Hell you can get a big hp tune for 1500$ but it will only be a matter of time before it pops a motor.
Hope all this makes sense.




I have been building engines since high-school 40 years ago. Ive been lucky enough to have had my hands on most brands one way or the other over those 40 years. I always rent a dyno so I too can get a before and after. Like most tuners we arent so much concerned about the hp number the dyno spits out because all dynos measure different. All we are concerned about is the delta as this is my report card so to speak.
a custom tune from M engineering ( probably the best tuners in the nation specializing in exotic cars) for the gt is around 7500$. Renntech at 3800$ is a bargain in comparison. Dme tunes are around 3k so 800 cheaper than renntech. There are endless parameters in these tunes. It's not just about the feel in the *** dyno but more about how it all works together. All tuners kind of have their traits. Dme tunes tend to bring the torque in very low in the rpm range which feels very good via the *** dyno. However dumping full tq in under 3k has a tendency to bend rods. This is because its a bigger load than what the rods were designed for. On some brands this doesn't hurt the rods because they are more robust than the next brand. Some manufacturers are super vulnerable to bending rods via dme, mclaren is one of them. With all this said renntech brings their tq in much higher than dme which is much easier on rods. I have personally torn down motors that were tuned and running fine but had bent rods in it. They can run for a while bent slightly but will eventually break then blow a 12 in hole in the block.
When shopping for a tune the last thing you want to do is look for a cheaper one. You definitely get what you pay for. Renntech puts probably a dozen safeties in to protect the motor where dme does not put but just a few in. These kind of things are time consuming to write the code. This adds $ to the sales price hence you get what you pay for. Hell you can get a big hp tune for 1500$ but it will only be a matter of time before it pops a motor.
Hope all this makes sense.
I have the M Engineering tune on my GTS- its great. I will never go cheap on an actual DME tune but RT is using a piggy so I just went with the safe plug and play walk away one for now. Small boost changes for me- I am not into the heavy mods on cars. I just do the BPU's.




https://www.renntechmercedes.com/ind...-192-63-detail
https://www.renntechmercedes.com/ind...-192-63-detail




Via the app I have 7 modes from comfort to Race Plus which basically changes the throttle position to a more aggressive punch with much less effort thus making the car more responsive. I like a better reaction pedal than what the GT63 has so this does just that.
https://www.racechip.us/pedal-box/xl...xoCIiIQAvD_BwE
which XLR throttle product did you buy? I couldn’t find it for our car on the site and when I emailed them, RaceChip responded saying they don’t make the throttle product for our cars yet




My guy-- RG Sport in Irwindale, CA got the unit, harness, and programmed it (C192 63 engine)... If Racechip gives you more grief, you can all and ask for Jonathan.
https://www.racechip.us/shop/mercede...-584lb-ft.html




Thoughts:
You can definitely hear more rumble and pronounced bangs/pops under mid load but main gain is the throaty sounds at lower rpms. Its probably about a 20% bump in overall dramatics from the exhaust and worth the price to me. It retails for 799 and the install is easy: Rack, lift, remove the felt cover, install the wiring plugs on both valve controls (like a bypass), tuck and tie the wires, replace the felt cover, de rack. Maybe 30 minutes tops.
Our valves are around 75% open where its still slightly closed off and this just makes it less obtrusive or 100% flow based on the valve still being there. Of course no valve would be the best since there would be no metal in the pipes at all but that will trigger a cel.
Thoughts:
You can definitely hear more rumble and pronounced bangs/pops under mid load but main gain is the throaty sounds at lower rpms. Its probably about a 20% bump in overall dramatics from the exhaust and worth the price to me. It retails for 799 and the install is easy: Rack, lift, remove the felt cover, install the wiring plugs on both valve controls (like a bypass), tuck and tie the wires, replace the felt cover, de rack. Maybe 30 minutes tops.
Our valves are around 75% open where its still slightly closed off and this just makes it less obtrusive or 100% flow based on the valve still being there. Of course no valve would be the best since there would be no metal in the pipes at all but that will trigger a cel.
bless us with some video please!!!
Thoughts:
You can definitely hear more rumble and pronounced bangs/pops under mid load but main gain is the throaty sounds at lower rpms. Its probably about a 20% bump in overall dramatics from the exhaust and worth the price to me. It retails for 799 and the install is easy: Rack, lift, remove the felt cover, install the wiring plugs on both valve controls (like a bypass), tuck and tie the wires, replace the felt cover, de rack. Maybe 30 minutes tops.
Our valves are around 75% open where its still slightly closed off and this just makes it less obtrusive or 100% flow based on the valve still being there. Of course no valve would be the best since there would be no metal in the pipes at all but that will trigger a cel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-gm?authuser=0





