MP3 interface for W208? Scosche FMMOD02 Universal Fm Modulator

I installed one of these in a year 2000 Jeep TJ, and would like to do same on my CLK.

This is not a transmitter/broadcaster. This is a hard wired emitter, patched in-line of the radio antenna cable.

Has anyone installed/used one of these in a W208 year 2000 ? Seems I hear something about fiber optics being an issue with some mp3 units, or something. Any info?

Here's a link to the unit:
Universal FM Modulator for iPod & MP3s and Auxiliary Input Devices

Thanks

 

Vivaitalia, Sorry for posting on an old thread but...

THANK YOU for posting pictures and providing the normally closed option to this mod!

I just did it last night and I couldn't be happier. This is arguably the best modification this c320 has ever seen! Sound quality is excellent as well for anyone else wondering, and I also wanted to thank you for saving me ~290-400 dollars, which is what those IPOD integration kits are running!

thank you, thank you, thank you!

-First time Benz owner

 

Hey guys I got a c320 and I'm wondering about the first step which is taking the radio out of the dash. If you guys could help me with that that'd be awesome!

 

Gentlemen,

Thank you for this great DIY. I completed the AUX input retaining the tape functionality.

 

I want to do that too..
I newer remove the radio power. Do I need the radio code?

 

For the life of me I can not figure out which one is tab 1 and tab 3....

Can anybody help me out, is it just the ones listed as Ipod in and out on the closed circuit example?

I just want to do a simply open circuit aux cable with a dummy tape in the cassette player.

 

^ Just look at the pics from the OP. The 2 "iPod In" points are the ones you want.

 

Thanks I found it and tried plugging it in but got tape stuck, gonna have a computer shop do it for me and just remove the tape functionality as well.

 

The white tab holding my ribbon down is broken on one side and I think that caused a short when I put the radio back in trying to return it to stock.

Will I still get the PROD code with the ribbon taped up with electrical tape to avoid the short as it wont stay in its socket solidly enough to avoid the PROD code.

Hoping to add an amplifier and an aftermarket channel summer like the MTX RE-Q to add an aux socket that way.

 

Hey Eric,
According to Cryptnotic's quote (#6) there is a surface mount resistor to remove.Did you remove it? If so, which one?

 

Ugg of course the pictures go down...

Does anyone have a shot of Vivaitalia circuit board that keeps tape functionality? All that's left online uses non closed circuit jacks.

 

Hi All,

I was just in the process under going Vivaitalia's mod with a close circuit jack when I notice all the pictures have suddenly become unavailable...

PLEASE HELP!!!! I'M DRIVING WITH ALL THE PARTS DANGLING AROUND ><

 

Faith in humanity restored!!!
Thank you Vivaitalia for sending me your original pictures and allowing me to repost them again on this thread.

Repost working pictures from Vivaitalia's original post:

Here is my part...

Step 1) Remove the fuse of your radio unit

Step 2) Remove the center trim to pull out the radio. Follow the instruction here http://www.fitaudio.com/?View=entry&EntryID=157 The steps are mostly similar if not exactly the same.

Step 3) Disassemble the radio. Do this slowly and document the order you take away each part and where the crews go on a sheet of paper. I suggest remove the data strip from the board under the cassette mechanism.

Step 4) Cut trace and solder on the 4 wires and number/color code them to these points

(Suggest that after testing with a multimeter you hot glue everything in place for protection and insolation. A thin layer will do otherwise the parts won't go back on due to limited sapce)

Step 5) Loop the wires out first then put everything back. If you chose to ground it you may pick a place on the metal part of the radio case.

Step 6) Solder the wires on to the close circuit jack according to the numbering I've provided.

Step 7) Again Hot glue or epoxy these points.

Step 8) Plug the wires back to the radio and don't forget the fuse under the hood too. Test that everything works for a good 10min before starting to put things back.
**If you are experiencing your radio unit displaying “PROD” after 30sec of turning it on. Pull out the fuse on the back of the radio and plug it back after sometime. This worked in my case since the car recognizes it's the same radio unit.

Notes:
- I couldn't find an other close circuit jack so I had to use the one from RadioShack. Just be fast when soldering since the prong can get hot enough to melt the surrounding plastic and cause it to move out of place.

- I have made it easier for reference by adding the corresponding soldering point on the jack from RadioShack. Ground connection is 1 and not really necessary. Use a ground loop connecter instead.

- I attempted to use audio cable for home theater but it was too stiff to work with. I end up using 2 3.5mm extender to do the job. It works just fine.

- It helps to have a multimeter to check whether you have cut the trace successfully or not and the soldering to the jack.

- I use a hot glue gun to secure and insolate everything, especially the soldering points, because they are really fragile.

BEST OF LUCK!!!

 

I HAVE TAPE STUCK ON MY RADIO WHAT DO I DO

 

So I think I messed up something, either accidentally, or by the nature of my "incomplete job."

I'm the process of taking everything apart to replace some stepper motor arms for the AC (see the sticky, if you are unfamiliar with the procedure. So I decided to knock out a bunch of things at once so I wouldn't have to take the car apart too many times.

So I took everything apart and took the radio upstairs, took it apart as following in the instruction. There already is a tape in the tape player that is stuck and can't get it out, so I didn't worry that much about eliminating the tape playing capability. I cut the negative wires as shown in this picture



But then I messed when cutting the only rca cable i had, so I decided to be less ambitious about the process and be happy that i took care of the annoying head tape stuck sound. Didn't solder anything, didn't touch any circuits.

Anyway, I go back to see if everything works, I connect everything up (though I forgot the radio connection) and the head unit starts up, but no sound is coming from anything, and it can't see the CD changer. I disconnect everything and realize that the radio wire wasn't plugged in, I plug it in and reconnect everything and now the head unit doens't even turn on.

Tried turning the car on (every other wire was properly connected) and head unit still doesn't work, but SRS light came on.....

Does this mean that I'm effectively committed to soldering a few wires and continue with the mod? My theory is that it detects something wrong with the tape, and freaks out?

Or alternatively, did I mess up my entire unit and have to go buy one off ebay?

Please help -- it will be much appreciated. If you are in the northern virginia & DC area and are down to help, please let me know, i got plenty of beers waiting

2001 C320 with Bose.

 

Great thread here... Just curious if anyone is willing to do this job if I were to send them my head unit (or meet in the NY/NJ area)

Pm me

 

I just did this mod yesterday to my wife's 03 C320 sport coupe. Took maybe an hour total from start to finish and we are both happy with the outcome. The audio sounds amazing and being able to play whatever music she wants now is great. If she is happy, Im Happy

 

I just completed all my audio upgrades. The only way to leave your tape player in tack is to use an iPod tape adapter. I was able to place one and close the tape door since the cable is very thin. Then just attach a simple bluetooth adapter to the line in. So now you can have all the stock radio functions plus bluetooth!
I changed my door speakers to 6.5 two ways. I used the stock speaker housings by cutting the plastic with a dremel to make the new ones fit tight. I cut the speaker wires for all four door speakers under the door floor cover and ran new wires all the way back to the truck then back again.

Using the head unit speaker outs I connected these to an 200w 4 channel amp with line level adapters. I placed the amp in the right side panel so you don't see it. I found that the direct high inputs on the amp caused a noise in the system. Now we have 50w per channel for the door speakers. Major difference. Of course that wasn't enough. I added a 1200W sub amp and an down fired 10" sub speaker. The amp was placed on top of the spare tire. Power was run from that fuse box on the left side for both amps with 8 gauge wire. Ground bolts at the body were used for ground. The speaker is the same cloth as the rear trunk.
Now we have some serious thumps.

Total cost: $309.00 for everything. Sounds as good as any Bose system if not better. It can rattle the truck!

 

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone in this thread that made it possible. The instructions, the pictures, everyone's comments. I was able to do this last night, relatively quickly. Works great!

Thanks again!

 

Hi All!
First I would like to thank for the instructions and the pictures.
I also started to do it but i made some mistakes and now i stucked.
So first I removed the radio (without casette) and made all the soldering which was required.
Then manually added the casette when it was still on my desk and rotated the smaller motor, till the casette goes down and the head connects to the tape.
I put into the car, but it says after 1 sec, tape stuck...
Then i connected the small engine's wire back, cuz i thought maybe i put the casette in wrong. So just out and in again, disconnect the wire and try it.
No luck... - Tape stuck
Also received some times PROD, which is don't know where to put, cuz all the cables were connected/disconnected properly.

Is it possible that i ****ed up only with that i removed the tape without casette?

What should i try now?
Please help!

Thank You

 

Where can I find complete instructions with photos showing how I can do this to my BECKER BE6019? It's my first time attempting this kind of project so it would have to be written in laymen terms.

Thank you.

 

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...t-retrofit.pdf

 

I have this seen this pdf but it'not understandable to me:http://www.benzworld.org/forums/atta...t-retrofit.pdf

As far as I understand I have to solder L and R cable to the identified pads but there seems to be more going on in this pdf that I don't understand because it's not explained "for dummies".

Any help appreciated.

 

Don't expect an easier explanation or TUT. Better to hire a professional or find a more "advanced" modder to help.

 

Please would you be kind and send me the picture of the process because I tried every link in the post but it didn't work

Laithtahir@hotmail.com