Introduction
As an introduction I own and operate a national independent leasing company through LeaseCompare.com. I've been in the auto business working on behalf of the consumer since 1989.
In addition to president of Automobile Consumer Services, Inc. (ACS), I serve on the board of the Ohio Vehicle Leasing Association (OVLA), Vice President of the National Vehicle Leasing Association (NVLA) and Co-Chairperson on the Technology Committee of the International Automotive Remarketing Alliance (IARA).
As a Certified Lease Consultant my main goal here is to help answer leasing questions. I'll also provide information on the captive (manufacturer) lease programs and general news about the leasing industry.
I like sailing and cigars.
Thanks again and let's get started!
Last edited by LeaseCompare; Mar 1, 2005 at 09:39 AM. Reason: Need to add more info
I’m looking to buy an E55 this week. I really don’t want to lease but thought you could advise possibly??
My dilemma…do I buy a brand new E55 for $85k or do I buy a used ’04 with 8k miles for $75k…I’m thinking for an extra $10k I get a brand new car that seems to hold it’s value fairly well?!
I wouldn’t mind leasing but I don’t like being tied to anything for a long period of time…plus I buy a different car every year…and put on a fair amount of miles.
Should I do a brand new car over 6 years or do a buy a used car and finance it over 5 years.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
John
Good question.
If you are going to "buy" it then I would go for the used car.
If you are going to finance it for 5-6 years but sell/trade it in a year or two and do the same thing again, then compare the finance payment (and negative equity you may have) to a lease payment for the term you will actually keep the car.
You may be better off leasing it and not having to deal with the trade/sell and the potential for negative equity. Pay the mileage penalty at the end to avoid tax and interest, plus, if the car is stolen or totalled insurance will pay off the lease leaving you with no mileage penalty.
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Why not provide documentation on the lease calculation, to take that mystery out of the equation?
After leasing many vehicles, and walking away from several bad lease offers, it seems all to clear that the dealers play games with the numbers at the expense of the consumer.
One other set of numbers I would calculate was what I termed an “effective interest rate”. I looked at a lease as two loans. One loan was for the residual value of the vehicle. For example, I was using $20K of the lease company’s property, for 3 years, while paying only interest. The other was for capitalized cost. For that I was paying principal and interest, to pay off that amount in the three years.
My calculation would arrive at an interest rate that would cause the total of these two loans to equal my monthly payment. That rate could then be compared to standard new car loan rates.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Capitalized Cost - Residual Value / Term = Monthly Depreciation
Capitalized Cost + Residual Value X Money Factor = Monthly Interest
Monthly Depreciation + Monthly Interest = Base Monthly Payment
1) Don't lease for a longer term than you normally keep the car as it can be costly to exit a lease early.
2) It's usually more cost effective to pay the mileage penalty at the end of the lease to avoid sales tax and interest when you include it in the lease up front.
1) Don't lease for a longer term than you normally keep the car as it can be costly to exit a lease early.
2) It's usually more cost effective to pay the mileage penalty at the end of the lease to avoid sales tax and interest when you include it in the lease up front.
http://www.leasecompare.com/quick_le...&DirectQuote=1
You will want to click on "edit vehicle/pricing" on that page so you can enter your own purchase price.
From there select a lease offer and apply for credit. We handle the lease contracts and paying the dealer for the car.
http://www.leasecompare.com/quick_le...&DirectQuote=1
You will want to click on "edit vehicle/pricing" on that page so you can enter your own purchase price.
From there select a lease offer and apply for credit. We handle the lease contracts and paying the dealer for the car.
Also, interesting observation you make about paying the mileage penalty at the end. I was not sure if would need 12k or 15k miles per year.
Thanks.
I was wondering if the following was truly a great deal?
selling price 71900
doc fee 489
acq fee 995
cap fee 34
gross cap cost 73419
resid amount 45846
12k per year
33 month
rate/money factor 4.0
1312.61 out of pocket when I arrive
and payment will be 1312.61 per month
I live in Texas. Buying from dealler in Colorado.
I see MBUSA is giving dealers 5k in marketing money.
Any thoughts?
I think we can help you out with this lease and you can still get the vehicle from the dealer in CO.
Confirm the money factor with the dealer and send me a Private Message with that and the model you are looking at.
Thanks for the opportunity.
I am trying to lease a ML350, for 39-48 months, 12,000 miles per year. No down payment (folded into the lease), with a sticker price of about $53,000. This will be my fourth MB. All four have been leased in the same way, and had purchase prices of about this same amount. Yet I am now being quoted payment prices that are in the range of $975 or mor per month. My current 2004 E320 had a sticker price of $54,000, was leased for 48 months (same other conditions as above) and my payment is $781.00 I do not understand why the lease amonts are so much higher. Seems to me that I am simply not getting a very good deal. What do you think?
A bank lease may be the best option right now. You can compare these offers here:
http://www.leasecompare.com/quick_le...des+Benz+ML350
If you always tend to have a car payment, you are better off leasing.
More info here: http://autoleaseinsider.blogspot.com...roduction.html
I have just leased a 2008 S550 throuh Mercedes-Benz Financial and they charge me $1095 for the Acquisition Fee.



