So I'll make a quick DIY on how to do an oilchange on the C250 cgi.

You will need:
-27mm socket
-13mm socket
-8mm socket
-ratchets
-small flat head screwdriver
-5.5l oil (I used Shell Helix Ultra 5w40)
-M271evo oilfilter (Bosch 1 457 429 261, Fram CH9918ECO, Purflux L366, Knecht OX183/1D, OEM A 271 180 009, A 271 180 01 09, A 271 184 01 25,...)
-something to catch your old oil in
-a piece of cloth or paper to clean up oil you might spill

1. Open your oil filler cap. Locate your oil filter. It sits behind the air filter near the firewall. It has an orange ring on it with "TURBO" written on it.



2. Take your 27mm socket with wrench and unscrew the oil filter. It's a pretty narrow spot so you might need an extension. Once you unscrewed it put a piece of cloth or paper in front of it so you can put the oil filter on it without making a mess on your engine.



3. Now you can use oil extractor or get under the car and remove the plastic covers under the car with your 8mm socket and wrench.



4. Locate the oil drain bolt. It's on the driver side of your oilpan. It might have some cables in front of it. Take your 13mm socket and wrench and unbolt it. Be sure to put your pan to catch the old oil in is in place. Drain all the old oil. And tighten the bolt. Place all the plastic covers back.



5. Fill your engine with 5.5 liter of oil. Might be easier to use a funnel. Once filled, put the cap back on.



6. Take your old oil filter and slide it off of the housing. Give it a strong pull. There are 3 rubber rings. If they are included with your filter, you might as well change them. Then slide the new filter back on to the housing.





7. Screw the new filter back in place and tighten it.

8. Use the service reset to complete the service.

 

Good DIY but are you really using a cut-up bottle as a funnel?

 

Yes, I couldn't find my funnel so just cut open a bottle. It worked great and fitted. It was completely dry...

Mac Guyver would be proud!

 

 

LOL

Excellent DIY especially the full instructions layout of how to reset the service indicator - well done !

 

Wowwww. Ur good

What oil do you use?

 

service reset

 

@paleface: I used Shell Helix Ultra 5w40

 

What if i use 10w40 or 5w30? Can it be problem?
Now im using royal purple 10w40, but the car accelerate heavy then before i change oil. Before i use Ams oil 5w40.

Thank you for ur help

 

You should definitely follow the MB recommended oils/weights for your specific engine. Deviate at your own risk and good luck with any engine warranty claim.
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...tedDocId=10119

 

Like AkaSigFreak says, follow the MB recommended oils. You can look on the oil bottle for the 229.3, 229.5 or 229.51 approval number.

If you are tuning your engine and getting more hp out of it, you can follow your tuners advice.

 

Since it's a pain to deal with my dealership I think I'll DIY next time I need to change the oil. Any comments on how much of a pain in the butt it is to remove the plastic cover under the engine? I haven't crawled under the car recently and am wondering if it's small section that needs to be removed or the whole thing. If it's the whole thing is it a two man job or can it be done by one person?

Thanks for the tip!

 

Good write up!

 

Thanks for the write up ,very informative.
I am a proud new owner of a 2012 c-250. I want to make sure this is the proper instructions for my 1.8 L engine, first of all. Second, what I have read they are very specific to the oil used. Other then Mobil 1 euro, what options are there? Lastly, is it best to extract the oil or drain the oil, I hear draining leaves oil in the pan.

 

Just wanted to say thank you so much for the DIY, this has made my life way easier. About to embark on this oil change myself... just got back from the dealership where they confirmed the A 271 filter as well as recommending Mobil One 0W-40. Filter was only 17 bucks and it came with all the O-Rings needed. Also got some coolant for about 28 bucks (I've read that coolant is very specific with MB). Thanks again :-)

 

What a great DIY. Good job.

-Luccia

 

Just wanted to hop back on here and once again say thanks for the DIY... followed your instructions to a T and everything seems to be going great so far (filter seemed small at first but after a lil bit of force it went on fine). For anybody else out there, I used Mobil 0W-40 (dealership said 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-30 were all fine for the C250... but they recommended 0W-40... either way I'd still check the manual just to be safe)... it gets hot here in AZ so I figured a thicker oil was prolly better. I'm impressed with the support here so far, so just thought I'd share the love.

 

The only way draining will leave oil behind is if you have the car jacked up such that the oil pools away from the drain plug. I've been using the drain plug method for over 40 years with excellent results. Having said that however, I have become a convert to the extraction method since my Golf TDI has a belly pan with a bazillion bolts holding it up. I was skeptical at first but the extractor also works great. I will use it on my C250.


I think that the determining factor is not that one method is better than the other, but more about accessibility and convenience for the particular vehicle you're working on.

 

How many qt's does the 2013 c250 need?

 

Just brought home my 2013 C250 S a few days ago. Looking around the engine compartment and found the filter....sure enough it says TURBO on it just like you say in your post (great job by the way). But, WHY does it say turbo on it? Is it a special oil filter housing? Last question (I promise).....where is everyone buying the 00-40 Mobil 1 at ?