DameMD

Well the 2012+ OEM Bixenon housings are now showing up every where and they are not as expensive as like a year ago. I got the driver's side which is the most expensive for dirt cheap. Anyway, if I can get the driver's side light to work then I will go buy the passenger side. Now for the people that will say, I will lose the ILS, I don't care for it, as I had this option on my other cars i.e. G37S coupe, and Lexus SC430 and to me it's a gimmick. Also, infiniti did away with ILS feature on later models. Also, for the people who will say you lose head light washing, well... all my previous cars had OEM HID and the only car I ever had headlight washers was on my Lexus SC430. I used the feature maybe 3 times since I bought the car.

My real goal is to: 1) Get rid of the fugly OEM halogen look 2) Get the C LED light to work independent of the lights being on meaning, have the C LED running with the DRL on bumper :-) 3) use my current HID kit in the projector housing which has a better brightness then the OEM HID 4) The Highbeams are seperate bulbs...whoever said that the housing had only one light is I can use my existing high-beam bulbs with no problems.

No need for a new wiring harness as I am not using using ILS or headlight washers. My good friend is a car electronics/mechanic guru so we are going to play with fuses, tapping in other wires and fun stuff to get everything to work. I also want to be able to remove the lights in the event I have to go to the dealer to do any warranty or service visits. I will let you guys know my progress as I start digging in.

AV1

Nice one Damien, you'll love the look and purposeful extra lighting capability of the bi xenons assembly compared to the standard headlamps

The Fonz

DameMD I look forward to hearing how you get the "C" lights working independently.
It is something I want to do. subscribed.
The Fonz

AV1

^^^ I'm also working on doing the same but other way around, ie. have the DRL's stay on when the C lights or 'parkers' are on and selected via the rotary switch.

I have already mapped out a wiring diagram and components required solution to do the mod - (this is for C Coupes which already have the intelligent lighting system or vision package installed from factory) - just need to find time to get it all done

casper721

Darn it Damien ... you make me wanna drive all the way to you and leave my car with out to play with LOL!! I've gotten the parts to do the dual exhaust already too! That project will be starting in about a week, since I just received the magnaflow muffler today.

Anyhow, I really am interested in this ... we seem to have the same taste in how the stock c250 SHOULD'VE came in

DameMD

I always love the look of the OEM Bixenons on the c250. Was really disappointed when my dealer told me they were on back order. It was either wait or be the first person in MD with a C Coupe in August 2011 lol. I should have waited......

I already tested my current HID Kit in the housings... man they look so good. I also tested the front turn signal and "C" led. Looks really good however, I didn't realize the front turn signals in the BiXenon lamps are quite a bit different. The wiring for the turn signals are also different though the connector is the same. The pin lay out is also different, off by like two-three pins. I am going to keep messing around with everything this weekend.

Side note: I went online to buy a MB C250 Shop Manual (which I thought I was ordering one) and come to find out I was had. Pretty pissed that "REPAIR SURGE.com" false advertised that they sale Shop Manuals and I paid $27 and got linked to BS. If it was the correct shop manual then I would have been done today with my light project as all I really need is the wiring diagram.

DameMD

Thanks...That's my second priority too.

DameMD

LOL...Hey I wish i was in SoCal because I know there are a lot more Indy shops that I could use, to do some other things I have in mind for the c250. MD blows lol...

Brandon26pdx

Do the standard halogen lights have the "auto on" feature like the xenon's have? I have the xenons on my car and actually don't care much for that feature.

hellasmania219

@DameMD

I have the wiring diagrams that you may need. Shoot me PM with email.
I have also just received Bi-Xenon housings and am waiting for some down time to begin the project.

Keep us updated please so that we can make a DIY guide!!

casper721

Damien, can't wait to see this when it's done. You're making me think of doing this too, lol geez! i didn't get the lighting either, but i'm satisfied with the HIDs i have, until you made me question it. =/

DameMD

Yes we have the Auto on feature for the halogen lamps. I always leave my lights on auto.

I will be PM'ing you right away. Thanks for the offer. I would definitely do a DIY when completed. Any help is appreciated.

My current HID is ok for now until I get this OEM setup working. I wasn't thinking about doing the upgrade until I parked next to another c250 with the lighting package and it re-sparked my interest again.

casper721

Damien, I understand. I just parked next to one at the traffic light. Hers was stock so I wasn't envious, until I passed her and saw her headlights. BLAH.

Jav_A

Subscribed! I just got HID's put in...aimed to ground level and its just not doing it for me

DameMD

Update! I bought the passenger side housing about a week ago so now I have the full set. I had some down time the last couple of days and with the help of my brother, we were able to get the "C" light working and my HIDs.

The "C" LED has 4 wires which two are signals and the other were the + & - . We were able to splice in to the DRL which has wires Green = + and Brown = -. Surprising enough, the DRL are 12v and the LED "C" needs 12v. No flickering at all. I have to test the lights with the car moving to see if the lights fluctuate. My aftermarket HID kit was just plug and play into the projector lens. My 4300K HID kit looks better than the OEM and matches the "C" and DRL better.

Now for issues: The turn signals are a pain. They use a different pin layout then the halogens. They also run a different load and I can't seem to get them to work even by testing them. I did check the wiring diagram and they have capacitors on them. I need to get a wiring diagram that shows how the wires are ran from the turn signal stalk. The diagrams I currently have are only for the exterior light switches.

So far so good...What we are going to do next is run a wire from mirror turn signals to the Headlights and test. I know there will be an error code but I have friend that has access to the Star tool so we can clear the fault. I will keep you guys updated and post pics tomorrow of the "C" working independently of the HIDs

saer1one

Subscribed..! Great thread and looking forward to a complete write up..

Normandie4life

great project man, i have a 08 c300 i been wanting this headlights for a long time. I have upgraded my old c63 bumper with a 2012 c63 bumper so i have a gap in between the headlight and the bumper so its another reason why i want this headlights so bad. Good luck with the wiring please let us know if you find a easy way to make it work.


here is a pic of my ride

AV1

Nice work and good info on some of the OEM wiring

BTW what colour is the + wire of the C light ?? TIA.

Seems like a neat and straight forward way of wiring up the DRL's to be on at the same time as the C lights in vehicles already equipped with the OEM bi-xenons, only prob is though that they would also fire up when using the left or right night time park C light, ie. it would also turn on that sides DRL, which I don't think is an issue in your case as yours probably dosn't have that feature in the rotary headlight switch ??

I havn't done mine yet, ie. wire up the DRL's to be able to be run at the same time as the C lights, but it looks like I have no choice but to use my planned wiring mod with a relay and rectifyers as well so that it dosn't interfere with any of the other OEM bi-xenon assembly headlight features.

DameMD

Hey guys, small update....I blew out the "C" LED. Since I don't have down time until the evenings, we were doing the rewiring around 5PM-till on my free days. This past Sunday morning I was planning to go for drive with new headlights in when I started the car and smelled something burning. Sure enough, the burning smell was the "C" LED. Trial and error....You guys should be happy I am being the guinea pig here.

Using a voltage meter, I double checked the DRL connection and found that during the day (sunlight), the voltage being sent to the DRL is 12V. In the evening time when the "Auto" Headlights come on, the DRL get dimmer and the voltage goes down to an 4-5v. By wiring the "C" lights to the DRL, I put too much load on to the "C" LED which is only looking for 3.5v and blew both of them out. Running the "C" LED to the DRL when the voltage was 4-5V was fine but 12v was way too much.

SOOO with that said. If someone wants to keep the DRL at constant full brightness, all you need to do is run the DRL to a constant 12v source. Do not go any higher as you risk blowing the DRL too. The next step for me is to now open the BiXenon housings and remove the LED panel that made the "C" LED light up and replace with a new set of LEDs or LED Strip. Not a problem, just a minor set back.

Side Note: You guys with the real OEM BiXenons have actuators screwed in to the bottom of the headlight housing. These actuators actually control the amount of voltage going to the "C" LED and Front lamp turn signals. Since both are LED, the Acutators keep the voltage at a constant 3.5V.

This is turning out to be a fun project. I am learning a lot about electrical wiring, harneses, diagrams, relays, actuators, capacitors etc... I will keep you guys updated on progress.

DameMD

Thanks! Funny Funny about the "C" LED. There are 4 black wires coming out of them. No colour, I had to play around with a flat 9v battery to figure out which was + & - . The wiring diagram also helped.

DameMD

Thanks! Funny Funny about the "C" LED. There are 4 black wires coming out of them. No colour, I had to play around with a flat 9v battery to figure out which was + & - . The wiring diagram also helped. I check the lights this evening and let you know you know the order from left-to-right which are the correct wires.

Hzkasbarian

how is it coming out? is there alot of wiring that you needed to buy from the dealer?

AV1

Thanks Damien, I'll sort out the wiring with a multimeter

I always was curious about the DRL auto dimming and where the source of the voltage drop was coming from, I suppose now we know

Reading your previous posting I thought it would've been easier to do my planned mod by simply tapping into the C light power supply, looks like I'll be sticking instead to my previous wiring/relay/rectifyers and separate switch arrangement I'd already planned for this mod, I certainly don't want to be blowing anything on my fully optioned OEM bi-xenons assembly and as previously stated wiring up the DRL's to the C light would also muck up the left/right courtesy park light feature, because it would also fire up the DRL unnecessarily.

Sorry to hear about your probs and hopefully it dosn't cost too much to get the blown lights replaced or fixed, make sure you show us all the finished result

got_thang?

I've been looking to do this mod on my 08 as well. I did notice 2 module 1 being the xenon ballast and assuming the second one being the computer for the leds.

So are you substituting or leaving out any of those modules

DameMD

No extra wiring from the dealer. The only thing that you need to be aware of is the turn signals. Everything else can be rewired. Now if you are looking to mimic the OEM functions of ILS then yes, you will need wiring harness, Actuator (computer module) and the D1 Philips OEM Bulbs and a bunch of other stuff = $,$$$

If you plan on just doing this mod to get the HIDs, "C" light, and turn signals working then, your local radio shack has all the supplies that you need. 18-22 gauge wire, wire crimps/connectors, wire strippers, electrical tape, solder gun, and 12v-3v voltage regulator or resistor. I already have a solder gun so basic supplies will cost you like $20 not including BiXenon housings. You have to search for the housings, in my case I used Ebay and bought the housings from different auctions totaling about $500. Way cheaper then getting the OEM housings from the dealer. Plus I can do trial and error. If I didn't blow the "C" Lights, I would have been done by now