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Tension Belt Recall-What Happened

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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 08:36 PM
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From: Joisey
1999 C280
Tension Belt Recall-What Happened

So on Jan 9th at 830 in the morning on winter break i went to the stealership to get my car checked. It was David Micheal in Freehold, NJ. So this is what went down. Car went in, and 2.5 hours later i got the car back. Service was fine but they didnt let me talk to the techs...


So when i got my car back they gave me a list of what had to be repaired..?!

Bushing, Control Arm-lower-2.5 hours of work at 443.95
Bushing, control Arm-lower-2.5 hours of work at 443.95
Cooling System Flus-.70 hours-122.38
Air Filter Element-.30 hours-61.07
Spark Plugs-3.6 hours-826.70
Brake Fluid-.50 hours-82.31
Fuel Filter-.70 hours-238.13
Brake Discs and Pads, Rear-2.60 hours-650.39


For a Total of $2218.49


Now this is crazy amount of money.... and i dont even know if these are actual "Repairs"




I hope most of these are repairs that i can do. It would be great if you guys can send me links to do the repairs and where to get the parts... and how to check if these repairs are legit.

Last edited by NdnMbLova; Jan 29, 2006 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Forgot to Finish
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 11:36 PM
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I take it this was an estimate....correct? Is there anything wrong with the car that you know of? Before you go replacing things on your own you need to determine what is actually needed. Spark plugs at 3.6 hours is a joke. At least get an independent estimate first.

Last edited by mleskovar; Jan 29, 2006 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:30 AM
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Just for a little bit of perspective, I changed my spark plugs yesterday and it took me just under an hour, and that was with a 15 minute break in the middle. changing the spark plugs was simple for my '97 C230. All I did was remove the intake tube above the engine, unscrew the top plate on top, slide the wires directly upward, then unscrew old spark plugs and install new ones. It cost me about $25, which is aot better than the $826.70 they quoted you.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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After reading your Title was there a "belt tensioner recall" along with the "HB" recall???

I'm currently in the middle of getting my oil pan repaired from the bad HB kicking the **** out of it and causing a leak.

My car is also making a clicking noise when the AC compressor spins caused by a semi-loose belt tensioner. My mechanic has found the problem and the part is about $250ish. Anyone know if there is a recall on this part????
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 03:19 AM
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i dont know if there was a recal on the tensioner, however, if you have a 98, i would definately change it out as mines went out on me while driving on the freeway, and it was not fun at all, no power steering, car temp went to red really fast and luckily i pulled over in time. what happens is that, the belt tensior will seize and burn off the serpentine belt, if this happens, the belt will rip apart and will get all tangled onto the pulleys and what not. there has been like 4 revisions of the belt tensior due to bad design. if your tensioner has a torx nipple sticking out of the middle, those are bad ones.
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by linuxfoo
if your tensioner has a torx nipple sticking out of the middle, those are bad ones.
I have a 2001 with the torx....does that mean it's bad? What should there be in place of the torx for it to be good? Where did you get the info that the torx bolt is the determination that it was bad and does that go for all years?
TIA
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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let me make a correction, instead of saying that the tensioners with the torx nipple sticking out are the bad ones, i would like to correct my self and say that those seem to be the ones that sieze more often according to a parts person at the dealer and hence why they have had several redesign of the tensioner to date. the new design does not have the torx nipple sticking out, infact they do not even want you to use the the torx nipple as in the past to de-tension the tesnioner to loosen the serpentine belt, because this will put a strain on the bearing of the tensior which over time will damage the bearing and cause premature failure of the tensioner (sieze). the new design has a 14 or 17mm nut on the body of the tensioner and not on the wheel itself so chances of ruining the bearing on the new tensioner are less likely. i hope i explain that correctly. if not, ask and i iwll try and clarify it.
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