Cover Breather Hose Cracked
#2
First, please post information about the car you want to know about, model/year, etc.
1. That is the crankcase pressure vent hose, the crack will allow blowby from your engine to get out and make your under-hood area dirty. The hose probably costs about the same as having the engine washed, so may as well replace it.
2. That is your power steering fluid resevoir. Looks like you are low. Make sure to use the correct fluid.
1. That is the crankcase pressure vent hose, the crack will allow blowby from your engine to get out and make your under-hood area dirty. The hose probably costs about the same as having the engine washed, so may as well replace it.
2. That is your power steering fluid resevoir. Looks like you are low. Make sure to use the correct fluid.
#3
Thanks.
1995 C220 W202
Is there liquid or just air on that hose, I dont want anything to drain our from that hose.
Ok I'll top up the power steering fluid.
Where do I check the Transmission Fluid, is there a reservoir to check?
1995 C220 W202
Is there liquid or just air on that hose, I dont want anything to drain our from that hose.
Ok I'll top up the power steering fluid.
Where do I check the Transmission Fluid, is there a reservoir to check?
#4
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2003 C230 Coupe
by the question I take it you are not a DIY with experience at least on MB.
On ading the steering oil, make sure you add the correct oil.
As far as your question the transmission oil reservoir?? There is no such a thing as for the steering and brake oil. What there is is big bucket under your car as for the engine oil.
There is no dip stick for that fitted on the car. You can buy it online on specialized sites. It is a quite long metalic dip stick. The transmission oil used on MB cars is a long life synthetic type that other than from MB dealers the only place I know you can get is from Amsoil.
The original oil should be good enough for the first 50000 miles in most cases. I believe factory/dealers let it go up to 100,000 miles in most cases.
Please consult with a specialized auto repair/maintenancfe store.
BTW: the tube for the transmission dip stick is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment just behind the engine.
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2003 C230 Coupe
I bet you it is still the original one and no one has ever topped it off.
#6
You should replace the fluid and filter in the steering system, but use the MB original fluid.
The transmission dipstick has a red handle and is near the firewall in the center towards the passenger side. Be careful about who services the transmission, the pan bolts must not be overtorqued or you will have serious problems. Change the filter after draining both the pan and torque converter. I would reccomend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF since you have the 4-speed auto.
#7
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2003 C230 Coupe
The tube is for vapor, when the car is off there is no pressure or anything, do not worry about changing it.
You should replace the fluid and filter in the steering system, but use the MB original fluid.
The transmission dipstick has a red handle and is near the firewall in the center towards the passenger side. Be careful about who services the transmission, the pan bolts must not be overtorqued or you will have serious problems. Change the filter after draining both the pan and torque converter. I would reccomend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF since you have the 4-speed auto.
You should replace the fluid and filter in the steering system, but use the MB original fluid.
The transmission dipstick has a red handle and is near the firewall in the center towards the passenger side. Be careful about who services the transmission, the pan bolts must not be overtorqued or you will have serious problems. Change the filter after draining both the pan and torque converter. I would reccomend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF since you have the 4-speed auto.
is it easy to drain/refill the steering fluid and replace the filter?
All the MB cars I know after 1999 don't have a transmission oil dip stick. Do the older one have it? Mine has just a black cap held in by a clip.
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#8
Thanks all will flush the power steering liquid & replace its fliter. Also replace the Breather Hose. Will not touch the transmission fluid (found its dipstick), measured to be fine.
May be I share what I'm trying to diagnose here. My car seems at time having difficulty driving 40 to 60km/hr. Pressing hard on the accelerator pedal seem no response. Only after a hard jerk, when peddal fully depress, then it gains speed slowly. At time it can drive fine with no issue. But always when going uphill it struggles (40-60km/hr) with peddal depress.
I am now eliminating the transmission, that crack hose & power steering fluid.
I suspect its the dreaded Engine Wire Harness, whose bio-degradable wire insulation cracking. I have now remove all the wires within reach, but there are I believe wires going down the side (difficult) to reach. Is that leading to the connectors to the coil? Do I need to lift engine or car to reach these hard to reach places?
If this fail (any way I need to change harness any how), I suspect its the coil itself, MAF or fuel pressure regulator. Can many of you experienced ppl pls offer some light.
Thanks very much
Rgds
May be I share what I'm trying to diagnose here. My car seems at time having difficulty driving 40 to 60km/hr. Pressing hard on the accelerator pedal seem no response. Only after a hard jerk, when peddal fully depress, then it gains speed slowly. At time it can drive fine with no issue. But always when going uphill it struggles (40-60km/hr) with peddal depress.
I am now eliminating the transmission, that crack hose & power steering fluid.
I suspect its the dreaded Engine Wire Harness, whose bio-degradable wire insulation cracking. I have now remove all the wires within reach, but there are I believe wires going down the side (difficult) to reach. Is that leading to the connectors to the coil? Do I need to lift engine or car to reach these hard to reach places?
If this fail (any way I need to change harness any how), I suspect its the coil itself, MAF or fuel pressure regulator. Can many of you experienced ppl pls offer some light.
Thanks very much
Rgds
#9
The older MBs do have a transmission dipstick.
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2003 C230 Coupe
![Question](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif)
I have a way to syphon off the oil in the reservoir.
Is the filter held in pace by any nuts/spring?
I have seen some DIY procedures where a hose is removed and the engine started so that old fluid gets pumped off to a drain device (cup) near the hose. Is that safe as the power steering fluid level would get very low?
supposedly repeating it 3 times after refilling the reservoir would get most of the old fluid out.
The top of the reservoir has just a 1 in opening, how would I be able to remove the filtr cartridge which is prooablt quite wider than that?
This applies for both the E320 and C230 (1999).
Thanks
#11
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2003 C230 Coupe
Thanks all will flush the power steering liquid & replace its fliter. Also replace the Breather Hose. Will not touch the transmission fluid (found its dipstick), measured to be fine.
May be I share what I'm trying to diagnose here. My car seems at time having difficulty driving 40 to 60km/hr. Pressing hard on the accelerator pedal seem no response. Only after a hard jerk, when peddal fully depress, then it gains speed slowly. At time it can drive fine with no issue. But always when going uphill it struggles (40-60km/hr) with peddal depress.
I am now eliminating the transmission, that crack hose & power steering fluid.
I suspect its the dreaded Engine Wire Harness, whose bio-degradable wire insulation cracking. I have now remove all the wires within reach, but there are I believe wires going down the side (difficult) to reach. Is that leading to the connectors to the coil? Do I need to lift engine or car to reach these hard to reach places?
If this fail (any way I need to change harness any how), I suspect its the coil itself, MAF or fuel pressure regulator. Can many of you experienced ppl pls offer some light.
Thanks very much
Rgds
May be I share what I'm trying to diagnose here. My car seems at time having difficulty driving 40 to 60km/hr. Pressing hard on the accelerator pedal seem no response. Only after a hard jerk, when peddal fully depress, then it gains speed slowly. At time it can drive fine with no issue. But always when going uphill it struggles (40-60km/hr) with peddal depress.
I am now eliminating the transmission, that crack hose & power steering fluid.
I suspect its the dreaded Engine Wire Harness, whose bio-degradable wire insulation cracking. I have now remove all the wires within reach, but there are I believe wires going down the side (difficult) to reach. Is that leading to the connectors to the coil? Do I need to lift engine or car to reach these hard to reach places?
If this fail (any way I need to change harness any how), I suspect its the coil itself, MAF or fuel pressure regulator. Can many of you experienced ppl pls offer some light.
Thanks very much
Rgds
You seem to be one of them.
Wasn't there a recall on that? At least you should be able to buy the harness at the dealer's cost. Have you approached the dealer/factory rep?
This is a major safety issue in my view. You car could stall anytime anywhere.
#12
Have spoken to spare parts its $2000 they never mention about at no cost. It seems they are trying to make money. Plus labour around $3000 all up. I had enough I'm trying to do it myself. Only thing there is 3 wires running down, hard to reach. 10 other connectors comes off easily within reach. I will have the wires repaired.
I may need to get underneath car to reach this. I pose what the harness look like (got the pic from web, look like mine but slightly different).
Also can you point where the coils are (is it ignition coils), I was told there is 3 coils altogether. No2 & 3 already repaired 1 yr ago may be due to this, may be no1 is faulty now?
I may need to get underneath car to reach this. I pose what the harness look like (got the pic from web, look like mine but slightly different).
Also can you point where the coils are (is it ignition coils), I was told there is 3 coils altogether. No2 & 3 already repaired 1 yr ago may be due to this, may be no1 is faulty now?
#13
The wires which I cannot reach according to the schematics are:-
no.65 Crankshaft Positon sender unit, camshaft position sender unit, intake
air temp sensor
no.74 intake aire temp sensor
One beside this which have no no. but look like a knock sensor?
The above is one cable harness.
Then two cables from:-
no.125 Ignition Coil
no.116 Oil Level indication
no. 89 Plug Conection Engine/Body ?
no.83 Plug Conection Engine/Body<--- I have disconnected this one?
no.101 Plug Conection Engine/Body<--- I have disconnected this one?
no.110 Plug Conection Engine/Body ?
no.65 Crankshaft Positon sender unit, camshaft position sender unit, intake
air temp sensor
no.74 intake aire temp sensor
One beside this which have no no. but look like a knock sensor?
The above is one cable harness.
Then two cables from:-
no.125 Ignition Coil
no.116 Oil Level indication
no. 89 Plug Conection Engine/Body ?
no.83 Plug Conection Engine/Body<--- I have disconnected this one?
no.101 Plug Conection Engine/Body<--- I have disconnected this one?
no.110 Plug Conection Engine/Body ?